All of our trees are container grown, but during the winter months when they are fully dormant, we remove their pots and soil. They are stored in our coolers, keeping their roots slightly moist, in order to ship them throughout the spring shipping season. It is easy to handle and plant bare root trees by following the instructions below. For more detailed information on growing and care, visit the explore the Learning Center. Store Locator Dunstan Chestnut. Learning Center History Dr.
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Southwest deserts provide excellent climates for growing many kinds of fruit. Many of the most common fruit trees originated in desert or semi-desert regions and, with a little help, will grow as well here as anywhere.
Some of the best to grow are almonds, apricots, figs and pomegranates. Also grown successfully are apples, nectarines, peaches, pears, pecans, pistachios, plums and scores of lesser known fruits. Choosing the correct, desert adapted varieties is important with these fruits. Some fruit trees like peaches and nectarines can be purchased in dwarf form and are ideal for container and patio gardening.
Cherries, as well as citrus varieties, are much more difficult to grow in our climate. Citrus fruits are very frost sensitive and will require protection or a mild winter climate to thrive and produce. The dwarf varieties we recommend and stock can be more easily protected or successfully grown as container plants and relocated in winter for protection.
In our climate, container-grown stock can be successfully planted nearly anytime. The best time to plant is from late fall through mid spring. Bare rootstock is much riskier and should only be planted from December through mid February. Later planting of bare root fruit trees is usually unsuccessful. The resulting stress is usually fatal. For best results, prepare the soil in advance and plant immediately after purchase.
Avoid purchasing bare rootstock that is showing leaf or flower bud activity. Select trees with undamaged trunks and good branch structure. A tree that looks well balanced in its pot will look even better in the ground. A tree firmly rooted in its container will transplant more easily and successfully than a loose, wobbly one. The wider the hole, the better your fruit tree will do.
The area chosen should be free of tree and shrub roots. Check drainage by filling the hole with water. If water remains in the hole for more than 3 hours, you must correct the problem. Remove or fracture hardpan or caliche with a digging bar or pick. If these options are not practical, consider a new location. Bad drainage causes root rot and weak, spindly, short lived trees. If placing the tree in a lawn, a slight slope or berm is best.
The tree can accept more frequent lawn water since the drainage will be better. Our native soils have virtually no organic matter. If the roots are girdled in a dense, circular mass , lightly score all sides of the root ball with a sharp knife. Trim off any broken, tangled or crushed tips. Place the root ball in the hole and add remaining soil mixture. Use soil to build a border-berm for reservoir around the tree 2 to 4 feet in diameter.
Cover any exposed roots with soil mixture and firm lightly. Add a prepared root stimulator like Dr. Examine the tree after planting. If it is dormant, you can prune 1 or 2 feet from the top to encourage new lower branches that will make fruit harvesting easier later on.
New growth contains hormones necessary for root development. Excessive pruning of a newly planted tree will result in poor root growth and stunting. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of Ammonium Sulfate on the mulch to replenish nitrogen lost to microorganisms decaying the organic matter. Potassium is a key nutrient in developing fruit sweetness. Trace elements such as iron, magnesium, manganese, boron, zinc and sulfur are also essential.
Use a packaged, complete specialty fertilizer like Dr. This formula provides rapid leaf development, stimulates new branch growth and provides essential nutrients for strong roots and tasty fruit.
For the last application in September, use a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus. Your trees need phosphorus to make fruit buds during the dormant winter season. Spread fertilizer evenly over soil starting 6 inches from the trunk and ending 12 inches beyond the tree drip line area defined by tree branch spread. Lightly scratch nutrients into soil to avoid injury to shallow feeder roots.
Water before and after fertilizing to prevent burning. When using any fertilizer, always read the label and follow package directions. Light, frequent watering causes shallow root growth leading to summer stress. It also keeps soil salts in solution around the roots leading to alkali burn and wimpy, non-productive trees. Deep, infrequent irrigation allows air to return to the soil between waterings, encourages roots to grow deeply, avoids root rot and flushes away salts.
As always, frequency of irrigation depends on plant location and soil conditions. Is the area on a slope or flat surface? Is the soil sandy, loamy or is there lots of heavy clay?
Use a moisture meter to probe the soil at various depths to make sure you are giving your trees deep, even moisture. Gumming or appearance of sap along trunk, or branches of fruit trees can indicate a response to a variety of problems. It frequently signals invasion by borers but can also be caused by environmental stress such as prolonged windy conditions, sudden severe temperature changes or erratic moisture conditions. Gum often appears naturally at pruning cuts, and points of branching from the main trunk.
Be sure to check for borers as mentioned below. Shothole and other fungi can affect fruit tree leaves some years, looking as if someone shot BBs through them.
There are others like Apple Scab fungus quite common that will severely damage the fruit, and if not treated quickly can cause the loss of the entire crop. Your best bet is to prevent the problem by treating in winter with a combination spray of Dormant Disease Control products.
It may retard fruit production. Use a copper based product instead. They are larvae of various moths and beetles that invade the trunk and branches of fruit and other ornamental trees. Borers eat the nutrient bearing layers, under the bark causing branch die back and eventual death of the entire tree.
Symptoms include holes in the bark accompanied by beads of sap and sawdust with peeling bark. Frequently shallow channels or depressions can be felt under the bark when running your fingers over the surface of the affected area. Since borers normally attack stressed trees rather than healthy ones, proper plant maintenance of watering, fertilizing, pruning and cleanup, will usually keep them away. Another preventative tool is white, latex water base paint. Painting trunks of trees, especially young ones, will protect them from sunburn and summer stress that leads to borer attack.
Once borers are in the tree, there is very little you can do to get them out. Prune out affected areas, get rid of the infected wood, and protect with paint or pruning seal. Sour Fruit Beetles invade fruit and spoil it for use. Stone fruits ripen from the inside out and the smell may attract beetles before the fruit is completely ripe. Inspect your crop frequently.
Aphids are soft bodied insects that suck plant juices. They are among our most common pests and affect almost all plants including some fruit trees. While their damage is seldom fatal, they make a mess and can reduce production or cause misshapen fruits. These insects appear in clusters on the undersides of newly emerging leaves and shoots.
They leave behind sticky honeydew which attracts ants. Spray trees with a strong jet of water, use insecticidal soaps or choose from many commercial insecticides. During the winter spray with Volck Oil to stop over wintering. Lady Bugs and Lacewings provide effective biological control, especially on larger, harder to reach, fruit trees. Green Fig Beetles June Bugs are large, shiny green, dive bombing insects common in summer around fruit trees and willows.
In most cases except figs they cause little damage and keep cats busy, but you can avoid them to some degree by practicing good garden hygiene. There is no chemical control. Cicadas are noisy, unpleasant looking bugs which can cause minor damage to young fruit trees by making small cuts in twigs and branch tips where they lay eggs. Use the following calendar to lessen that stress and increase production.
Each year attempt to expand the root system by extending the placement of drips away from the base. An excellent time to plant container and bare root fruit trees. Do maintenance pruning and branch thinning now. Spray with Dormant Oil and Dormant Disease Control to lessen insect and fungus problems during growing season.
Apply Dr. Apply one cup at the drip line of young trees. Always water trees thoroughly before and after fertilizing. If possible, apply a inch layer of mulch after fertilizer application.
Bare root trees and plants can be planted any time during the dormant season usually from mid November to mid March. You should plant bare root trees and plants in their permanent position as soon as you can after receiving them. While it is always best to plant the trees as soon as you can, it is sometimes better if conditions are not right to wait longer and plant when conditions improve. In any event you should always plant before spring growth starts. Do not plant if the ground is frozen or waterlogged. Frost is usually not a problem once trees have been planted. The above ground parts are hardy.
However, during a fruit tree's lifespan the reason for pruning will change. A newly planted bare root tree needs the top pruned back to match the bottom of.
Bare-root fruit trees are lifted from the nursery field during autumn and winter while they are leafless and dormant. Because they are dormant, they can handle being lifted and dispatched to their new homes — as long as their roots are never allowed to dry out. You can find bare-root fruit in garden centres during autumn and winter, and you can order it directly from mail order suppliers. Bare-root fruit is often cheaper than that bought in containers during the growing season. Planting this way has other advantages too — during winter, while the rest of the plant stays dormant, below ground the roots are working away to get established. That means that by the time spring comes, the trees are ready to burst into growth. Planting bare-root trees is a leap of faith, but it is the quickest, easiest way to successfully establish new plants. Back-fill the planting hole with the soil you removed, plus some well composted organic matter, and perhaps a scattered handful of blood, fish and bone so the roots definitely have everything they need to get going. A product containing mycorrhizal fungi such as Rootgrow is also recommended by many to aid root establishment. Water well and stake the trunk to stop the tree rocking while its roots are getting established.
Nurseries are stocked with bare root and potted fruit trees, so now is the time to plant! Late fall and winter are the best times to plant fruit trees in our climate. Trees planted during the rainy months are more likely to adjust to the shock of planting. City Fruit is a non-profit corporation with a tax exempt status c , supported by donations, memberships, class fees, sales and grants.
Winter in Melbourne is the time to attend to our fruit trees.
Prepared by James R. For information about UMaine Extension programs and resources, visit extension. Find more of our publications and books at extension. Fruit trees can be an attractive and useful addition to the home landscape. This fact sheet will help you to establish new fruit trees that will provide you with beauty and fruit for years to come.
The roots must be kept moist, so in the nursery, the trees are stored in bundles in large beds of sawdust. When transported to garden centres, the trees are packed with damp straw to ensure the roots remain moist while in transit. After purchasing a bare-root tree, keep the roots damp by heeling into a garden bed temporarily or in a bucket of potting mix. If roots have dried slightly, soak the roots in a bucket of water for an hour or two. Dig a large hole, twice the diameter of the root mass. Loosen the sides and bottom of the hole, especially if the soil is heavy. Add gypsum and compost as soil conditioners to heavy or clay soils to improve drainage.
Once planted, these tips will keep your bare rooted trees in good shape until they are established: Water the plant in well; Mulch around the.
Cooler temperatures and more adequate rainfall can make fall an ideal time to replace or add to your woody plant collection. But keep the following notes in mind. Plants that are most successful for fall planting include most shrubs, crabapple, hackberry, hawthorn, honeylocust, linden, most maples, sycamore, pine and spruce. Magnolia, dogwood, tuliptree, sweet gum, red maple, birch, hawthorn, poplars, cherries, plum, oak, hemlock, ginkgo and broad-leaved evergreens are among the plants that are best saved for spring planting.
Skip to content Ontario. Explore Government. Growing fruit trees in the home garden can be a very interesting and challenging hobby. There are several things that you should know about fruit tree culture that will improve your chances of success and make your hobby more rewarding.
It's not always possible to plant immediately when your order arrives. Here are some tips for how to delay planting your trees and plants.
Discover our growing range of nursery plants, from succulents, to full trees. Everything you need to get your next gardening project off the ground. All the essential materials your garden needs to flourish from the very start. From DIY weekenders, to full building and landscaping projects, we have you covered. Bare rooted trees are field-grown plants that have been dug up while dormant leafless.
Well-planted and maintained bare-root fruit trees will produce good fruit on a couple of years. Out West, where the bare root season arrives early, February is time for planting fruit trees, and January is the time to prepare. New gardeners often miss this crucial planting time because it falls so early here.