What Is A Blind Plant: Learn Why Some Plants Fail To Bloom


By: Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist

What is a blind plant? Plant blindness is not visually challenged flora. Non-blooming of plants that should bloom is the actual definition of plant blindness. Let’s work together to discover the answers and causes to this disappointing bloom issue.

There is nothing more exciting than the first blooms of spring and few things more discouraging than the failure of a favorite plant to produce flowers. Blind shoots form at the end of many types of plants, resulting in a lack of flowers. Bulbs, like daffodils, also go blind suddenly one season and form copious foliage but no blooms. There are a variety of factors that can cause this. Some of them are correctable and some of them are the capriciousness of nature.

What is a Blind Plant?

To answer this question we need to observe the basic rules of bloom formation. The non-blooming of plants, or plant blindness, is found in a host of plant specimens. You may first notice it in bulbs, which once performed beautifully year after year, but now fail to bloom.

In order for any plant to produce flowers, it needs adequate soil and exposure, water, nutrients, and temperature. A bulb is a perfect little system for nutrient storage and it is this stored material that fuels the blooms. Similarly, other flowering plants uptake energy from the soil or the addition of fertilizer, to stimulate blooming. There are some steps you can take when plants fail to bloom but some are just plants prone to blindness.

Causes of Plant Blindness

Any atmospheric changes may prevent a plant from blooming. Temperature, inadequate moisture, genetic factors, pests, disease, and many other causes may form a blind plant. Some plants prone to blindness are fruiting plants, such as tomatoes. When they fail to bloom, you will not get fruit. Sometimes pinching off side shoots helps, but often it is just an anomaly and you will have to get another plant.

Blind shoots from roses have been studied as grafted plants and the resulting offspring were found to produce even more blooms than cuttings from flowering plants. This should be encouraging and seems to point out that blind plants are not useless but can be the source of propagation material.

Preventing Plant Blindness

There is no surefire way of preventing plant blindness.

  • Providing supplemental fertilizer or a bloom food can increase the chances of blooms.
  • Proper pruning techniques will help you avoid cutting off the bloom sites on your plants. For instance, some plants bloom off of old wood only, so you don’t want to accidentally cut that portion off until after the bloom period. Spur pruning can help increase bloom in apples and other fruiting trees.
  • Potted bloomers should be replanted every year when dormant and given fresh nutrient-rich soil with compost mixed in to help feed the process.
  • There are also chemicals, called primers, which can help decrease the incidence of blind plants at germination but these seem to be limited to commercial use.

The frustrated gardener should try these tips and wait until the following year and see if you get blooms. If heroic garden efforts fail to awake the late bloomer, it might be time to compost the reluctant plant in favor of a more reliable flower producer.

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How To Make Plants and Flowers Bloom: 7 Effective Tips

We all want the flowers and the plants in our gardens to bloom. Most gardens grow decorative flowers only to enjoy their beautiful blooming. Therefore, in this article, we will provide you with 7 tips on how to make plants and flowers blooms. These Tips are effective and they will definitely help you enjoy several beautiful blooms.

Use High-quality Soil

Plants and flowers need nutrients to bloom that is why it is crucial that you grow them in a high-quality soil is light and rich in compost and manure. Organic matter is also important as it promotes bacterial activity that improves the fertility of the soil.

Therefore, it is recommended that you make some amendments to the soil before your plant blooming plants. Make sure that you also add compost or manure to the soil before planting.

2. Remove wilted flowers

This is one of the most effective tips on how to make plants and flowers bloom. It is recommended that you regularly remove wilted flowers so the plant can direct its energy on other flowers and they will be receiving more nutrients. Witted flowers will not bloom and they absorb nutrients. Removing them will allow other flowers to absorb more nutrients which will promote their blooming.

Witted flowers also attract insects and pests. Many insects and pests feed on witted flowers, removing them, prevents their spread.

3. Apply Fertilizers

Blooming plants and flowers are heavy feeders and they require a lot of nutrients. Even if your garden soil is rich, you should apply a half-strength liquid fertilizer to your plants regularly during the during the growing season. Use a flowering fertilizer that contains more phosphorus than nitrogen.

Keep in mind that phosphorus promotes the blooming whereas nitrogen promotes foliage growth. To guarantee that your plants and flowers will bloom, you can apply mix time-based fertilizer in the soil when the growing season starts.

4. Sunny Location

Sunlight is not only vital for the growth of plants and flowers but also for their blooming. Make sure that you grow your plants in a location where they can receive plenty of sunlight. However, shade-loving plants develop more flowers when they are not exposed to much light. Make sure to know which type you are growing before you choose the location.

5. Nurse the roots

This is one of the oldest tips on how to make plants and flowers bloom. This tip will help you have healthy plants and abundant blooms. Plants and flowers absorb nutrients and water from the soil through their roots, nursing the roots will help the nutrients circulate smoother and faster. Thus your plants and flowers will receive more nutrients.

However, nursing the roots is a delicate process that requires concentration and good hands. When you are about transplanting the plant or digging around it, make sure that you avoid damaging the roots. The plant may not survive the shock.

6. Mulch

Mulching is important. Mulch has several benefits including preventing weeds, repelling pests, and protecting from diseases. You can use any type of mulch available.

7. Careful Watering

Both over watering and under watering are harmful to your plants. Too much watering may kill your plants and if not, it will at least promote foliage growth and hinder flowering. As for under watering, the lack of water cause the plant to drop the flower buds and it may even kill the plant.

These are the most effective tips on how to make plants and flowers bloom. These tips will encourage both the growth and the bloom of your plants. Don’t hesitate to apply these tips to your plants and don’t forget to share this article with your friends. Sharing is caring.


Aftermath Of Touching The Plant

The sap of giant hogweed is phototoxic, meaning that it can induce third-degree burns and irritation on your skin. For a toxic plant, this weed is unexpectedly beautiful, and one unknown of its hazardous consequences would love to touch and praise it. There has been strong awareness recently about its dangerous effects. However, most people still don’t know the aftereffects of touching this plant. After getting in direct contact with the wet sap, it can agitate your skin within 15 minutes and cause burns in the exposure of sunlight. To make things worse, there’s a risk of blindness if it goes into your eyes.

Be very cautious of it, especially if you live in New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Maryland, Oregon, Washington, Michigan, Virginia, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine. The reactive chemical–photosensitizing furanocoumarins can cause a skin reaction, which is extremely sensitive to light. It can cause a long-time sensitivity to sunlight, and the scars can last for as long as six years. If by chance you touch the plant, you must wash your hands with mild soap and get out of sun exposure asap. If you are stuck outside, try to apply a little bit of sunscreen over the skin to prevent further reactions.


11-15 Interesting Facts About Plants

11. An Indonesian tribe successfully uses the “gandarusa” bush as a form of male birth control. Scientists say the plant prevents pregnancy by slowing down the activity of certain enzymes in the sperm that help them wriggle into a female’s ovum. – Source

12. Nepenthes rajah is the largest of the pitcher plants, and it’s also the largest carnivorous plant in the world, sometimes referred to as the “king of the pitcher plants.” It is essentially a trap filled with up to three and half liters of water and two and a half liters of digestive fluid. It is evolved to lure insects to it, and when the insects fall in they are unable to escape and are digested by the plant. On a number of occasions rats have been found half-digested inside the pitchers, and other small vertebrates such as small birds, lizards, and frogs occasionally fall victim to the plants as well. – Source

13. There is a plant called Ramonda Serbica, which can survive the most unfavorable conditions of drought during which it is almost dead but as soon as better conditions appear it lives again. In 1928 a herbarium made by a Russian scientist included this plant. By accident he spilt some water over it and the plant previously totally dry, produced flowers. – Source

14. Ron Sveden, a 75-year-old A retired teacher from Cape Cod discovered that a growth in his lung was not, as feared, a tumor, but rather a pea plant. A seed had somehow lodged itself in his lung, presumably after some food found its way down the wrong tube, and the seed then sprouted. – Source

15. No corn plants exist in the wild. If humans stopped cultivating corn, it would die out in only a few years. – Source


Tips for Maintaining Perennial Plants

Gain some helpful tips about how to care for perennial plants including which types benefit from deadheading, how often to fertilize and divide, and much more in this informative article.

Nature is the greatest teacher, and there is much to learn from growing a perennial garden. Cultivating plants that live three or more years—the true definition of a perennial—is an enjoyable process that is refined and perfected over time.

We’ll share with you some basic tips you’ll find helpful along the way here. We also encourage you to keep a garden journal with your own notes on what has worked and what hasn’t and gather your own bits of wisdom there along the way.

Let’s start with the basis of all life: sunlight and water.

SUNLIGHT

When you read the plant tags at stores or scroll through our plants online, you’ll see that every one lists the plant’s sun or shade requirements. Choosing plants based on how much sunlight or shade you have to offer should be your primary consideration.

Full sun = 6+ hours of direct sun exposure per day

Part sun/Part shade = 4 to 6 hours of direct sun exposure per day

Full shade = Less than 4 hours of direct sun exposure per day

If you are looking to spruce up a garden bed with some new perennials, before you go plant shopping, first observe how many hours of sun that bed receives in a day. If it sees lots of sunshine throughout the entire day, buy plants for full sun. If it is shaded for half the day, buy part sun/part shade plants. If it is sunny only for a few hours or not at all, buy full shade plants.

Keep in mind that there are some regional differences in sun and shade. If you garden in zone 3 (Far North U.S. or parts of Canada), you can often grow plants that prefer part shade in full sun because your sun is much cooler in the North. If you garden in zone 8 or 9 (Far South U.S.), you may need to protect some full sun plants from the hot afternoon sun.

Observe your plants once they are growing in your garden. They will tell you if they are happy with the amount of sun they are receiving. If the edges of their leaves are turning brown, they might need more shade or water. If they are leaning towards the sun or not producing many flowers, they may benefit from being moved to a brighter location.

All plants need some amount of water to live, but they don’t all require the same amount. By choosing plants that prefer the conditions you have, and by grouping plants together in the garden by watering preferences, you make watering easier on yourself.

If you do not use an automatic sprinkling system, have regional watering restrictions, or simply do not want to your garden regularly, choose perennials that need less water to thrive.

Perennials that need less water:

  • Yarrow - Achillea
  • Ornamental Onion - Allium
  • Blue Star - Amsonia
  • False Indigo - Baptisia
  • Pinks - Dianthus
  • Coneflower - Echinacea
  • Baby’s Breath - Gypsophila
  • Red Hot Poker - Kniphofia
  • Lavender - Lavandula
  • Catmint - Nepetashown here
  • Beardtongue - Penstemon
  • Russian Sage - Perovskia
  • Perennial Salvia - Salvia
  • Stonecrop - Sedum
  • Switch Grass - Panicum (ornamental grass)
  • Little Bluestem - Schizachyrium (ornamental grass)

If you do use an automatic sprinkling system, enjoy hand watering, live someplace where consistent rainfall is reliable, or if you garden in soil that tends to stay moist for long periods, choose plants that prefer average to consistent amounts of water.

Perennials that prefer average to consistent amounts of water:

  • Japanese Anemone - Anemone
  • Goat’s Beard - Aruncus
  • Japanese Painted Fern - Athyrium
  • Heartleaf Brunnera - Brunnera
  • Clematis
  • False Sunflower - Heliopsis
  • Daylilies - Hemerocallis
  • Coral Bells - Heuchera
  • Foamy Bells - Heucherella
  • Rose Mallow - Hibiscusshown here
  • Hosta
  • Shasta Daisy - Leucanthemum
  • Ligularia
  • Bee Balm - Monarda
  • Phlox
  • Salvia
  • Foamflower - Tiarella
  • Spike Speedwell - Veronica
  • Fountain Grass - Pennisetum (ornamental grass)

DEADHEADING PERENNIALS

Deadheading is the simple act of removing the spent flowers from a plant before it goes to seed. In nature, seeds are an attempt to ensure that the next generation of plants develops. In some cases, once seeds have been produced, the plant will stop blooming since there is no reason to put energy into blooming anymore.

Not all perennials produce seeds. In such cases, we deadhead the plants to encourage more flowers to bloom. It won’t harm the plant at all if we choose not to deadhead—it is a matter of personal preference, not survivability.

When you deadhead, cut the stems down by about one-third or to the top of the mound of foliage if the flowers are produced at the tips of leafy stalks. Daisies, bee balm and catmint are some examples of this. Watch for small buds forming along the length of the stems and be sure not to cut those off when you are deadheading these kinds of perennials. If the flowers are produced on their own stalks with no or few leaves, like daylilies and coral bells, remove the entire spent flower stalk.

Deadhead these perennials to encourage rebloom:

  • Firefly series of yarrow - Achillea
  • ‘Stand by Me’ clematis
  • Fruit Punch ® pinks - Dianthus
  • Paint the Town ® pinks - Dianthus
  • Tuscan series of false sunflowers - Heliopsis
  • Rainbow Rhythm ® daylilies including ‘Going Bananas’, ‘Orange Smoothie’, ‘Siloam Peony Display’, ‘Sound of My Heart’ and ‘Storm Shelter’ - Hemerocallis
  • Pyromania ™ red hot poker - Kniphofia
  • Sweet Romance ® lavender - Lavandula
  • Amazing Daisies ® ‘Banana Cream’ and Daisy May ® shown here shasta daisy - Leucanthemum
  • ‘Cat’s Meow’ and ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ catmint - Nepeta
  • ‘Cloudburst’ and Opening Act series of phlox - Phlox
  • Color Spires ® and Profusion series of perennial salvia - Salvia

Deadhead these perennials for appearance only (rebloom not likely)

  • Ornamental onion - Alliumshown here
  • Blue star - Amsonia
  • Japanese anemone - Anemone
  • Goat’s beard - Aruncus
  • Heartleaf brunnera - Brunnera
  • Non-reblooming daylilies - Hemerocallis
  • Coral bells - Heuchera
  • Foamy bells - Heucherella
  • Rose Mallow - Hibiscus
  • Hosta
  • Ligularia
  • Bee balm - Monarda
  • Beardtongue - Penstemon
  • Russian sage - Perovskia
  • Creeping phlox – Phlox subulata
  • Stonecrop - Sedum
  • Foamflower - Tiarella
  • Spike Speedwell - Veronica

These perennials will develop interesting
seed heads if you do not deadhead them:

  • False indigo - Baptisia
  • Coneflower - Echinacea (leave standing to feed birds)
  • Clematis shown here
  • Ornamental grasses

FERTILIZING PERENNIALS

Perennials and shrubs need far less fertilizer than flowering annual plants. Think about how these kinds of plants grow in nature. When perennials die back naturally for winter, their leaves fall at their feet and eventually disintegrate into humus, which in turn provides the nutrients they need to continue to grow.

To mimic that natural process, feed your perennials in early spring when new growth begins by spreading a thin layer or scattering handfuls of compost, humus, manure, shredded leaves, worm castings, or other organic ingredients on top of your garden beds. Through the seasons, the worms in your garden and rainstorms will filter those nutrients down into the ground where the plants’ roots can absorb them.

Slow release plant foods formulated for perennials like Espoma’s Plant-tone ® or Flower-tone ® can also be incorporated into your garden soil in spring and summer (before mid-July). This will increase nutrition levels in the soil, especially in sandy or rocky ones where minerals tend to get flushed through more quickly than in heavy clay. It is always a good idea to get a soil test from your local university extension office before adding any specific amendments.

Some plants actually grow better in lean soil, meaning soil that is low in nutrients. Such plants can have weaker stems and become floppy if they are grown in soil that is too nutrient-rich. If you have lean soil, consider growing the perennials listed below.

Perennials that grow better in lean soils with little fertilizer:

  • Yarrow - Achillea
  • Blue star - Amsonia
  • False indigo - Baptisia
  • Lavender - Lavandula
  • Catmint - Nepeta
  • Beardtongue - Penstemon
  • Russian sage - Perovskiashown here
  • Creeping Phlox – Phlox subulata
  • Salvia
  • Stonecrop - Sedum
  • Ornamental grasses

CUTTING BACK PERENNIALS

Late fall is the time of year when many people clean up their garden beds in preparation for winter. It is your choice whether to cut back your plants in fall or spring, but there are a few guidelines you’ll want to keep in mind before you decide.

DO cut these perennials back in fall:

  • Any perennials you do not want to reseed in your garden
  • Any perennials with diseased foliage, like powdery mildew, rust or leaf spot. Cut all of the foliage down to the ground and dispose of it rather than putting it on your compost pile.
  • Perennials that have heavy insect damage, like slug damaged hostas. Bugs may lay their eggs in the spent foliage of their favorite plants, so by cleaning it out of the garden in fall, you are limiting pest issues the following year.

DO NOT cut these perennials back in fall:

  • Evergreen or semi-evergreen perennials like pinks (Dianthus), coral bells (Heuchera), foamy bells (Heucherella), foamflower (Tiarella), creeping phlox (Phlox subulata), bugleweed (Ajuga), Lenten roses (Helleborus) and red hot poker (Kniphofia)
  • Perennials with woody or hollow stems like rose mallow (Hibiscus) shown here, Russian sage (Perovskia), lavender (Lavandula), butterfly bush (Buddleia) and delphiniums
  • Perennials with winter interest like False Indigo (Baptisia), coneflowers (Echinacea), Prairie Winds ® ornamental grasses, Rock ‘n Grow autumn stonecrop (Sedum), and ornamental onion (Allium)

DIVIDING PERENNIALS

Some perennials grow so quickly that they benefit from being divided every 3-5 years to retain their vigor and flower power. Ornamental grasses, daylilies, irises and stonecrop are some examples. Other perennials, like coral bells and rose mallow, stay in a single clump that never needs to be divided. We’ll list some more examples for you below.

It is best NOT to divide plants with woody crowns, a single stem/crown, fragile fleshy roots, or a tap root including:

  • False indigo - Baptisiashown here
  • Heartleaf brunnera - Brunnera
  • Clematis
  • Bleeding heart - Dicentra
  • Baby’s breath - Gypsophila
  • Coral bells - Heuchera
  • Foamy bells - Heucherella
  • Rose mallow - Hibiscus
  • Red hot poker - Kniphofia
  • Lavender - Lavandula
  • Beardtongue - Penstemon
  • Russian sage - Perovskia

Perennials with fibrous or loose root systems are the easiest kind to divide. Siberian irises, for example, can often be pulled apart with your hands once you’ve dug them up and shaken the soil off the roots. Ornamental onions like ‘Serendipity’ are similarly easy to pull apart and divide. Dayliliy roots, shown here, are a little tougher to pull apart but can be cut with a sharp knife. Bee balm and spike speedwell are also easy to divide with a knife.

As a general guideline, perennials should be divided in the opposite season of which they bloom. That means if they bloom early in the season they should be divided in fall, and if they bloom late they should be divided in spring. When you do so, dig up the whole clump of the perennial you want to divide so you can easily see its root system. Each piece you pull or cut away from the original clump should be no smaller than what would fit in a 1-quart (4-6”) pot. Immediately replant the divided pieces into the garden or containers before their roots dry out.

A note about dividing patented plants: Many varieties of perennial plants are protected under U.S. and Canadian patent laws. If a variety is patented or has a patent pending, that will be stated in small print on the plant label. In such cases, it is illegal to divide or propagate and sell that plant. This won’t impact most home gardeners, but if you participate in local garden club plant sales, sell your plants online or something similar, you should know that it is illegal divide any patented or patent pending plants and sell them at such sales or for any other monetary gain.

MULCHING PERENNIALS

Most plants, including perennials, benefit from having mulch around their roots year-round. Organic mulch like shredded bark, hardwood, or pine straw makes our gardens look more polished, but it also serves several useful purposes including:

  • Shading the plants’ roots and keeping the soil cooler, which makes the roots healthier
  • Retaining soil moisture longer
  • Preventing weeds from growing up into the plants
  • Adding nutrients to the soil as the mulch disintegrates over time

Inorganic mulches like small stones or gravel can also be used, but they will not have the added benefit of enriching the soil since they do not break down. Stone can be useful in very windy locations where lighter mulch tends to blow away and is sometimes used on steep slopes where lighter mulch would wash away. Just be aware that if you ever decide to switch from stone mulch to organic mulch, it is backbreaking work to remove all those stones.

Whichever type of mulch you use, it is important to prevent it from touching the crown (base) of the plant. Spread your mulch carefully so that it lays nicely under your plant’s foliage but away from the crown. When mulch touches the crown, it is an invitation for plant rot and pest issues.

If you plant any perennials or shrubs in the fall, be sure to lay a 3-4 inch layer of mulch around them to prevent frost heaving during the winter months. The mulch will moderate the soil temperature so it remains consistent throughout the winter.

Perennial gardens benefit greatly from having a layer of shredded leaves placed over them in late fall or early winter after the plants have gone dormant. When you are raking earlier in fall, shred and bag some of your leaves to use for this purpose. By spring, the shredded leaves in your garden beds will have mostly broken down and their nutrients will enrich the soil—it’s free fertilizer!

Have more questions about caring for perennials?

  • Submit your questions through our Feedback Form.
  • Read more articles about garden maintenance.
  • Learn more about all of the Proven Winners Perennials we offer.


Non-Blooming Daffodils

Unfortunately, there are a few reasons why daffodils might not bloom! Please reference the check list below to see if anything fits your situation:

  1. Bulbs have not been ‘fed’ in a couple of years (a broadcast of 5-10-10 granules at planting, when leaves emerge, and again at bloom is a reasonable feeding schedule.)
  2. Feeding has been with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. (This encourages production of leaves, but seems to quell the plant’s need for flowers.)
  3. Bulbs are planted in a shady area. (Daffodils need a half-day of sun at least to produce flowers. If planted in partial sun, longer.)
  4. Bulbs are in competition for food with other plants. (Planting under evergreen trees or with other fast-growing plants limits the food they can get. Result: weak plants and no flowers.)
  5. Bulbs are planted in an area with poor drainage. (Daffodils love water but must have good drainage. They do not do well where the water puddles. There, they are weakened by “basal rot” fungus or other evils and die out. Plants infected with basal rot have green color loss on the leaves, malformed leaves, stems, and flowers – or all. Basal rot is incurable – dig and discard the bulbs.)
  6. Plant leaves were cut too soon or tied off the previous year. (Daffodils replenish their bulb for about six weeks after they bloom. The bulbs should be watered for about this long after blooming. The leaves should not be cut off or blocked from sun until they start to lose their green and turn yellow. This signifies the completion of the bulb rebuilding process.)
  7. Bulbs may be stressed from transplanting. (Some varieties seem to skip a year of blooming if dug and replanted in a different environment. Some varieties bought from a grower in one climate may have a difficult period of adjustment to a vastly different climate. They may bloom the first year off the previous year’s bulb, but then be unable to adequately build a flower for the following year.)
  8. Some naturalized varieties growing well in one region do not grow well in regions with different climate. (The wild jonquils proliferating and blooming in the Southeastern USA do not flower if moved to the north.)
  9. The bulbs may be virused. (Many plant viruses attack daffodils. Over time, an infected plant loses its vigor, puts up smaller, weakened leaves and stems, stops blooming, and finally dies. The most common viruses are “yellow stripe” and “mosaic”. Yellow stripe shows as fine streaks of yellow the length of the leaves. It appears as the leaves emerge. The plant is weakened by the second year. Mosaic only appears as white blotches on the yellow flowers where the petals lose their color. Plant vigor seems unaffected. Both these diseases are contagious to other daffodils and incurable. Dig and throw away the bulbs.)
  10. Growing conditions the previous Spring may have been inhospitable – the reformation of the bulb was affected. (An early heat wave may have shut down bulb rebuilding before it was complete. The bulbs may have been grown in a smallish pot without adequate feeding or protection from heat and cold.)
  11. Bulbs may be diseased or stressed from shipping the Summer before. (retail bulbs typically remain in closed crates for a lengthy period of time during shipping. These humid conditions are near-perfect for the proliferation of fungus diseases such as “basal rot” (fusarium). Some bulbs are infected at the time you receive them. Never buy or plant a “soft” bulb. Cut any observed rotting spots on a solid bulb back to clean tissue and soak the bulb in a systemic fungicide such as Clearys 3336 before planting. Reference our ADS bulb sources page for a list of retailers.
  12. Bulbs may have been growing in the same spot for many years and need dividing. (Daffodil bulbs normally divide every year or two. This can result in clumps of bulbs that are competing for food and space. Commonly bulbs in compacted clumps cease blooming. Dig the bulbs when the foliage has yellowed. Separate them into individual bulbs and replant them about 6″ apart and about 6″ deep. You may replant immediately after lifting, or you may dry the bulbs in the shade, store them in mesh bags, and replant the bulbs in the Fall. If you replant immediately – do not water them until the Fall.)
  13. Bulbs may be out to get you! (The case when you give them away in frustration and they bloom wildly for the new recipient.)

2021 Virtual ADS National Convention

Join members of the American Daffodil Society as we “Reach for the Stars” at the 2021 Virtual National Convention starting February 25 to May 1!

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