Rose watering


Rose watering

Like all of us, plants also need water to live and develop at their best; adding water is a very important operation, but it must be done following some fundamental criteria. In this article we will talk and explain the water needs of roses, the periods when there will be a need for more consistent irrigation and other very important things to always have beautiful and lush roses. Before proceeding with irrigation, here are some things that we must keep in mind: first of all, like other plants and also humans, roses need more water during hot seasons or dry periods, in fact, as everyone knows, the heat dries the soil much faster than cold. Even during the wettest seasons, our roses will still need to be watered, naturally in a less abundant manner as rainwater already contributes to providing a certain amount of water. It is well known that too abundant irrigations can cause the onset of fungal diseases. To avoid this problem, mulching can also be done, ie covering the base of the plant with leaves, straw, etc .; to avoid this problem, it will not be necessary to wet either leaves or flowers, but to bring water from the base of the plant making it reach the roots.


When and how much to water them

After the transplant phase and throughout the first year, the roses should be watered very abundantly, after this period the water intake will be slightly decreased. A characteristic of roses is to develop deep and very ramified roots therefore, thanks to this, in the period from March to September, we will be able to supply them with water in a more rare but always regular way; during these months we will generally also be helped by the rains that will keep the soil constantly wet. During the hottest seasons, spring and summer, the best phases of the day to water the roses will be in the morning and in the evening respectively; in these periods with very high temperatures the roses will be irrigated every week very abundantly and very deeply. It is good to remember that a substantial lack of water supply during the hottest periods will cause the plant to fail to produce flowers.

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Fundamental rules

One of the fundamental rules is to supply water regularly, so that there are no fluctuations between drought and excessive water intake. As we said earlier, in the summer and spring the watering must be more abundant, but be careful not to overdo it because even the rose fears water stagnation and an excessive supply of water could favor the appearance of fungi such as Botrytis and Peronosposa. causing diseases such as mold, weakening of the plant and failure to open and develop buds and buds. What would the rose plant be without its beautiful and colorful flowers?


Roses in vase

Of course, even for roses grown in pots, water is a fundamental element that must be supplied to the plant on a regular basis and in the right quantity; it is precisely this quantity that, at times, can also become a problem: both too much and too little, in some cases, leads to yellowing of the leaves. So what to do?

Here too we must follow simple but very precise and necessary rules. First of all, we must never allow the soil to dry out completely, but neither will it get too wet because, as mentioned in the previous paragraphs, excess water can cause very serious damage. Regarding the amount of water needed, during the summer you can water the roses even twice a day, while in the other periods a little less, in the winter very little.

In addition to considering the seasons in general, however, we will also have to refer to the climatic zone in which we find ourselves and grow our roses. For example, if we were in an area with a continental climate, characterized by fairly cold winters with constant presence of snow and summers with little rain, we should water the roses about every two to three weeks just to keep the soil at the right humidity, in winter instead it will not be necessary to add water. In the case of alpine climate, on the other hand, the rose should be watered regularly but sporadically, about once a month, in order to keep the soil moist. As for a Mediterranean climate, typical of our areas, characterized by more or less mild winters and hot and dry summers, the soil must always be kept moist and always watered regularly every week or fortnight.


Conclusion

What we have described to you are some main rules regarding roses in general, of course we are aware that each species and variety of this plant has particular and specific needs. In any case, we always observe our plants, through particular symptoms they show us states of malaise and suffering.




The garden without irrigation - from theory to practice

The garden without irrigation is not a garden without water nor a garden of cacti ...

it can be a garden with the style that most corresponds to us in the lines, volumes, plays of shadow and light, with highly aesthetic or functional romantic accents, meditative or recreational, in short, a garden to which we give our subjective imprint always and in any case considering the water element as the central fulcrum of the project . The garden without irrigation does not require improvisation but method, patience and foresight, without taking away beauty. On the contrary, he will reciprocate in generosity and health.

Here is a handbook divided into chapters or areas of intervention that can help us put into practice the idea of ​​a sustainable garden, with low environmental impact, therefore with low water demand

The lawn: things not to do

  • Sow in spring / summer
  • Sow large areas of lawn
  • Irrigate automatically daily and for a short time
  • (The waste is very high 70% of water is lost in evaporation and percolation)
  • Cut frequently and low
  • Fertilize with chemicals
  • Fertilizing in hot weather (fertilizing means stimulating and consequently irrigating more)

The lawn: things to do

  • Reduce lawn areas by favoring where possible the use of shrubs and trees which by creating shaded areas will contribute to a general environmental improvement
  • Choose drought tolerant seed mixes such as lippia nodiflora, fescue arundinacea, and poa
  • Sow in autumn close to the wettest season so that the plants have a long acclimatization period and the roots develop deeper
  • Limit the cutting of the grass by keeping the blades of the mower higher, avoiding yellowing when the first real heat arrives or at the first block of the water system
  • Irrigate less often by wetting the lawn well so that the roots follow the path of the water going deeply (instead of just a little every day)
  • Fertilize with compost only at the end of winter
  • Accept that the lawn over time mixes with spontaneous essences (an old lawn has a strong water autonomy, therefore a great value even if bastardized. In the case of significant impoverishment of the turf it is good practice to aerate, fertilize and re-seed in autumn on the surface)
  • For large areas, favor the wild garden where a rich mixture of seeds will create beautiful blooms in autumn, spring and summer
  • These are low-maintenance, self-regulating and self-disseminating natural spontaneous lawns populated by butterflies, bumblebees and bees where the gardener will only have to mow twice a year at the end of flowering and forget about the irrigation system

The flowerbed: things not to do

  • Use chemical herbicides to prepare the area to be created
  • Fertilize and fertilize with slow release chemical and synthetic products
  • Mulch with plasticized sheets or non-woven fabric derived from petroleum and not degradable
  • Planting mono varietal flower beds (all roses / hydrangeas / peonies / rhododendrons etc.)
  • Create the ready effect with a tightened sixth implant
  • Plant stiff and formal flower beds by choosing exotic plants whose characteristics we do not know
  • Use plants at a single level of development for large areas
  • Use automatic sprinkler irrigation
  • Dealing with systemic pesticides and not allowed in organic farming, on a large scale and on a calendar basis
  • Do not use broad spectrum insecticides based on imidalcropid (they also kill beneficial insects)

  • Weeding the area manually by repeating the operation several times. Turn the clods in winter so that the root of the uncovered weeds freeze and die.
  • Improve the quality of the soil and fertilize with natural organic elements (compost, earthworm humus, manure, cornunghia, droppings or with the green manure technique)
  • Insert plants of different botanical species useful for maintaining biodiversity and respecting the coexistence of species
  • Give preference to native, naturalized species or varieties suitable for the environment and resistant to drought.
  • Give preference to spontaneous species with distributed blooms in order to attract pollinating insects over the seasons and help create a living environment that regulates itself
  • Mulch abundantly with natural elements such as coniferous wood chips, coconut fiber, straw, grass clippings, lapillus and possibly distribute an irrigation with dripline under the mulch to limit the evaporation of water
  • Irrigate only when necessary avoiding uncontrolled automatic systems
  • Treat only locally with organic products, with natural antagonists such as predatory insects, traps and parasitoids

The garden by its very nature is the creation and artificial construction of man, accessibility to water must be planned and organized and it is clear that it can be neither casual nor improvised. Here are a few steps to follow to avoid waste and optimize its use:

Where possible, construction of an external collection basin such as a small lake

Collection of rainwater in underground or external cisterns

Collection of domestic clear water that flows into the pond or into the collection tanks

Use of drip systems for feeding rigorously mulched flower beds to avoid evaporation and limit weeds

Slow down the flow of water in escarpments and slopes with the construction of terraces and dry-draining walls

Use sub-irrigation techniques such as underground ampoules that act as a reservoir and feed the surrounding plants particularly suitable for synergistic gardens and cultivation in Slowwater method containers


Irrigation Systems For Roses

Pink rose bushes require periodic watering so that they can grow healthy and beautiful. The water must reach at least 10 centimeters into the soil.

Drip irrigation system

The drip irrigation system is the most effective way to water a pink rose bush, offering the right amount of water and being cheaper than a sprinkler or overhead system.

Drip irrigation system emitter

The emitter system consists of a large main water pipe which has smaller pipes extending to the plants that need irrigation. The smaller pipes have nozzles capable of supplying water to the plant. Bury the pipes and nozzles under compost in order to isolate and protect them.

Soaker drip irrigation system

The soaker system consists of a main water pipe that has small holes that deliver water to the plant. The holes are located along the entire tube and are made of two, plastic, canvas or even black rubber. The black rubber tube has small pores that allow the water to slowly drip over the tube. Soaker pipes must be buried.


The garden without irrigation - from theory to practice

The garden without irrigation is not a garden without water nor a garden of cacti ...

it can be a garden with the style that most corresponds to us in the lines, volumes, plays of shadow and light, with highly aesthetic or functional romantic accents, meditative or recreational, in short, a garden to which we give our subjective imprint always and in any case considering the water element as the central fulcrum of the project . The garden without irrigation does not require improvisation but method, patience and foresight, without taking away beauty. On the contrary, he will reciprocate in generosity and health.

Here is a handbook divided into chapters or areas of intervention that can help us put into practice the idea of ​​a sustainable garden, with low environmental impact, therefore with low water demand

The lawn: things not to do

  • Sow in spring / summer
  • Sow large areas of lawn
  • Irrigate automatically daily and for a short time
  • (The waste is very high 70% of water is lost in evaporation and percolation)
  • Cut frequently and low
  • Fertilize with chemicals
  • Fertilizing in hot weather (fertilizing means stimulating and consequently irrigating more)

The lawn: things to do

  • Reduce lawn areas by favoring where possible the use of shrubs and trees which by creating shaded areas will contribute to a general environmental improvement
  • Choose drought tolerant seed mixes such as lippia nodiflora, fescue arundinacea, and poa
  • Sow in autumn close to the wettest season so that the plants have a long acclimatization period and the roots develop deeper
  • Limit the cutting of the grass by keeping the blades of the mower higher, avoiding yellowing when the first real heat arrives or at the first block of the water system
  • Irrigate less often by wetting the lawn well so that the roots follow the path of the water going deeply (instead of just a little every day)
  • Fertilize with compost only at the end of winter
  • Accept that the lawn over time mixes with spontaneous essences (an old lawn has a strong water autonomy, therefore a great value even if bastardized. In the case of significant impoverishment of the turf it is good practice to aerate, fertilize and re-seed in autumn on the surface)
  • For large areas, favor the wild garden where a rich mixture of seeds will create beautiful blooms in autumn, spring and summer
  • These are low-maintenance, self-regulating and self-disseminating natural spontaneous lawns populated by butterflies, bumblebees and bees where the gardener will only have to mow twice a year at the end of flowering and forget about the irrigation system

The flowerbed: things not to do

  • Use chemical herbicides to prepare the area to be created
  • Fertilize and fertilize with slow release chemical and synthetic products
  • Mulch with plasticized sheets or non-woven fabric derived from petroleum and not degradable
  • Planting mono varietal flower beds (all roses / hydrangeas / peonies / rhododendrons etc.)
  • Create the ready effect with a tightened sixth implant
  • Plant stiff and formal flower beds by choosing exotic plants whose characteristics we do not know
  • Use plants at a single level of development for large areas
  • Use automatic sprinkler irrigation
  • Dealing with systemic pesticides and not allowed in organic farming, on a large scale and on a calendar basis
  • Do not use broad spectrum insecticides based on imidalcropid (they also kill beneficial insects)

  • Weeding the area manually by repeating the operation several times. Turn the clods in winter so that the root of the uncovered weeds freeze and die.
  • Improve the quality of the soil and fertilize with natural organic elements (compost, earthworm humus, manure, cornunghia, droppings or with the green manure technique)
  • Insert plants of different botanical species useful for maintaining biodiversity and respecting the coexistence of species
  • Give preference to native, naturalized species or varieties suitable for the environment and resistant to drought.
  • Give preference to spontaneous species with distributed blooms in order to attract pollinating insects over the seasons and help create a living environment that regulates itself
  • Mulch abundantly with natural elements such as wood chips from conifers, coconut fiber, straw, cut grass, lapillus and possibly distribute an irrigation with dripline under the mulch to limit the evaporation of water
  • Irrigate only when necessary avoiding uncontrolled automatic systems
  • Treat only locally with organic products, with natural antagonists such as predatory insects, traps and parasitoids

The garden by its very nature is the creation and artificial construction of man, accessibility to water must be planned and organized and it is clear that it cannot be either casual or improvised. Here are a few steps to follow to avoid waste and optimize its use:

Where possible, construction of an external collection basin such as a small lake

Collection of rainwater in underground or external cisterns

Collection of domestic clear water that flows into the pond or into the collection tanks

Use of drip systems for feeding rigorously mulched flower beds to avoid evaporation and limit weeds

Slow down the flow of water in escarpments and slopes with the construction of terraces and dry-draining walls

Use sub-irrigation techniques such as underground ampoules that act as a reservoir and feed the surrounding plants particularly suitable for synergistic gardens and cultivation in Slowwater method containers


Static, dynamic sprinklers and rotating heads

Sprinklers come in a variety of sizes, shapes, designs and brands, but most of these variations fall into four main categories: Static Sprinklers, Impact Sprinklers, Dynamic Turbine Sprinklers, and Large Turf Sprinklers . In our wide range of sprinklers you can choose the sprinkler that best suits your needs, the choice is made based on the type and size of the areas to be irrigated. Our sprinklers are retractable for underground irrigation systems, suitable for sprinkler irrigation of gardens, parks and sports facilities.

Accessories

A series of accessory components for garden irrigation.


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