By: Becca Badgett, Co-author of How to Grow an EMERGENCY Garden
Image by DM
Sometimes you’ll hear a gardener lament there are no flowers on trumpet vines that they’ve painstakingly cared for. Trumpet vines that do not bloom are a frustrating and all too frequent problem. While there are no guarantees that you’ll get your trumpet vine blooming, the following tips may help you understand why there are no flowers on trumpet vines and how to get a future trumpet vine blooming.
Lack of sunlight is a common reason why gardeners have trumpet vines that do not bloom. If the vine is planted in a shady area, stems may appear leggy from reaching for sunlight. Learning how to force a trumpet vine to flower will include eight to 10 hours of sunlight daily.
Immaturity can also be the reason there are no flowers on trumpet vines. This plant takes several years to reach maturity and be ready to bloom. If the trumpet vine was grown from seed, it can take 10 years for it to be old enough to bloom.
Too much fertilizer or soil that is too rich can cause trumpet vines that do not bloom. Trumpet vines generally flower best when planted in lean or rocky soil. Fertilization, especially high nitrogen fertilizer, can create lots of large, lush leaves, but directs the energy to the foliage while blooms are neglected. Fertilizer that is high in phosphorus, or even bone meal, may encourage trumpet vine blooming.
Pruning at the wrong time can lead to trumpet vine, no blooms. Trumpet vine blooming occurs on new growth of the current year. If pruning is needed on the plant, do it in winter or early spring, then allow new growth to be undisturbed to get the trumpet vine blooming.
A difficult task for the dedicated gardener is to neglect the plant with no flowers on trumpet vines. Avoid pruning and feeding if the plant is in the right soil and getting enough sunlight.
If you think the soil might be too rich or the area does not get enough sun, take cuttings and experiment with how to force a trumpet vine to flower by using these suggestions.
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Read more about Trumpet Vine
Trumpet Vine. Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans) is a true North American plant. Many garden plants are described as blooming all summer long, but trumpet vine is one of the few to actually live up to this description. Its only requirements are a sunny exposure and a good pruning in winter.
how do I get my trumpet vine to bloom? Trumpet vine blooming occurs on new growth of the current year. If pruning is needed on the plant, do it in winter or early spring, then allow new growth to be undisturbed to get the trumpet vine blooming.
Considering this, what month do trumpet vines bloom?
The trumpet vine (Campsis radicans) typically begins to bloom in mid-summer and continues until early autumn. A vigorous climber, it can clamber 40 feet or more up a post or tree in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9.
Do trumpet vines bloom every year?
Trumpet vine blooms on new wood, meaning that the flower buds form the same year the flowers bloom. With this vine, buds form in spring and are followed by summer blooming. If you prune the vine in late spring or early summer, you'll wreck summer bloom. Prune in early spring or late winter when you fertilize.
Tried to dig, pull and cut vine. Keeps coming up in yard and flower beds. Afraid it will creep under swimming pool liner. Help.
It is hard to get rid of hummingbird vines, also known as trumpet vine. The methods in this article should help: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/vines/trumpet-vine/kill-trumpet-vine.htm
You will not be able to stop it from sending shoots up unless you kill it completely. If you plan on killing it, using a paintbrush to immediately paint the fresh cuts of the remaining roots or suckers with Roundup will help to kill the vine and using a paintbrush will guarantee that the surrounding plants are not harmed by overspray from the chemical.
I planted 1 yellow Trumpet vine, and 2 hummingbird Trumpet vines that I purchased bare root and planted last year. This year the vine foliage is doing great, but no blooms or even buds. I live in Hope Mills, NC zone 7b. Does any know when they should bloom in this area. I've been told that they should start the end of July, others have said the first part of July. As I said the vines are spreading thickly over my arbour and running down the chain link fence line, and starting to root. All this, but no buds. HELP. Bob
Here in cen. Illinois mine were blooming profusely back in June. Photo herewith was taken 7-2-05.
I had mine at least 3 or 4 years before I saw bloom. And since it started it has bloomed every year since. Maybe it just needs a year or two more to get established.
Thanks for the input Jmorth and great pics. Lenjo I guess mine are going to be just like yours. The shame of it is that when I ordered them thru Direct Gardening they said they would bloom profusely the following year. I don't order anymore from them because some of the items they sent were not what I ordered. I wll say though, all the bareroot items they send have rooted successfully for me. Maybe they might still bloom. Thanks, Bob
I have had them for several years and they have never bloomed, just spread and became invasive. Still trying to get rid of them.
I have a yellow trumpet vine, and though it grew well, it didn't bloom until the third summer. This summer was the fourth and it went crazy with blooms! I think just give it time. It needs to get a little older.
I had mine for years too before it started blooming. . and its invasive as all out! . the vines that lay on the ground root into the soil rapidly. I am forever weeding. and I still dont get that many blooms.
They do need to be established and several years old to bloom. And they will only get better after that. Mine started in late june (USDA 7b) and still has a couple blooms on it. Also, you can prune to shape or control growth, and to remove pods to control spreading, just do not cut it to the ground. At most, back to the main stem or "trunk", if you will. It won't hurt your plant if you do cut the trunk severely,as they are made of green iron, but you may have to wait until your plant has grown large again.
They also require full sun or at least close to it in direct sun to bloom, otherwise you'll just get vegatative growth. Also feeding too much nitrogen can produce tons of green and fewer blooms. If you do feed, se 20-20-20, then 15-30-15 as bloomtime starts. They don't seem to need lot of fertilizer as long as the soil isn't totally dead.
I have a 'lutea'. I started with a 3' plant in a gallon pot and it was the second season before I got a few blooms. Then each year there were more than the last.
This message was edited Sep 17, 2005 2:02 PM
Robert my plant appears to bloom in the thrush of the bush . like in the shade part on the other side of the fence. in the pic I posted above it is blooming on the shady side of the fence . never on top where the sun is strong . whats up with that? I had this plant for seven or eight years . just started blooming about three years ago.
If the plant as a whole gets enough light, branches that are out of adequate light can flower.
They can bloom without being in strictly (sun up to sun down) full sun, but they must have a good deal of strong direct sun to prosper and flourish.
I mis-spoke when I said they need full sun to bloom, I should have said "to bloom well". The fuller the sun the better.
On the roadside where I live are great sprawling masses that have never shown a bloom, being shaded by trees, while nearby, in a southerly exposure with good strong sun, they just *burst* with blossoms.
Thanks Raydio thats good to know. . but now I have different problems. the property manager had the groundkeeper spary herbicides to kill the bindweed around the front of the fence. My plants is turning yellow and the leaves are falling off rapidly . and it look like it dying. The huge trunks on my plant are inside . I doubt they can kill my plant because its a vigirous grower but i dont know for sure. Also this plant shades my hostas. What do you think?
Couldn't really predict the outcome. maybe there will be enough life left in the main plant to survive, or perhaps you'll discover a sucker nearby next spring.
Unfortunately. One sucker is not going to shade my Hostas . lol . anyway keep this thread open. I will keep you posted come spring! lol
In my experience growing from seed the Campsis radicans takes from 3-5 years before it will bloom. Don't cut it back (until after it blooms) or this will make it longer. Also keep suckers from shooting out of the ground around it by pulling them up when you see them or the plant will use up more energy trying to expand rather then reproducing. Just from my own experience with these vines I've been growing them in our nursery for years.
This message was edited Sep 17, 2005 8:07 PM
Dennis Thanks. hopefully you are right . most of my weeding is pulling up these shoots! . and in light of what you just told me . let me get down here and do some more. maybe that will help the growth process.
I have to share this funny story with you. About 5 years ago I bought a yellow trumpet vine named Campsis radicans "flava" from Lowes garden center. I had been looking for the yellow for quite a while and I was so glad to have finally found one. Anyway my wife was kidding with me because every summer for the last 5 years I'd faithfully tend to this vine. Let me say first off all my orange trumpet vines (that I've had for years) were doing great and blooming like crazy, but year after year no blooms on my yellow. Anyway as I was saying my wife kidded me for babying my yellow vine and this year it bloomed. oh I was so angry, it turned out to be orange :0 I guess after 5 years I can't very well take it back to Lowes now can I? LOL My wife thinks it is so funny and asks me why I don't just cut it down after all. I've finally grown my own yellows now and have had blooms on them only a year later. I also planted the red too, but have yet to get blooms.
Just thought that was a story to laugh about. Only gardeners can appreciate that story :)
Dennis that is so cruel for these plant people to do that! Yes I would complain if they are still in business!
Happen to me twice! I ordered a white Hibiscus tree and it turned out to be Pink! I was mad I tried to pull it out the ground . but it kept coming back. i had to get someone to dig it out . second was a yellow climbing rose bush . it died on me twice and I had it replaced twice. the darn thing finally bloomed last year. guess what color it is? ..you got it. Pink! . since then I keep all my receipts and shipping info . I am known in the shoppin world as the great Returner. Every year this time I go thru all my receipts to to see what did not make it. I get online and get replacements for everything that died on me! After all plants do have a lifetime guarantee and nothing breaks my heart worse than havin a plant die on me after working so hard to get it goin!
Just an additional note:
It has been said that pruning should be done after flowering or at the start of the season. This is because Campsis blooms at the end of the stem and cutting it too late will set even a mature plant back, so that you could very well not see as much (if any, possibly) bloom.
Raydio I was just reading the same thing about the clemitis. setting the blooming peroid back. . I have cut the plant during the bloomimg peroid because grows so long . the vines set root in the soil every where. Oh boy! what to do now.
What to do? Pot 'em up am sell 'em at the trade lot! -)
The same thing happens when you try to get rid of a Campsis by placing a big rock over the chopped off plant. You'll spur your plant to send out roots as much as 100 ft in search of light! You'll have it everywhere then, as well, only yards and yards away!!
Pot em up is right . I was taking some to the plant swap meet this weekend. but the roots are too deep. They kept breaking off. will they survive with broken roots? I did send some to DGer in Wyoming. I told her to just lay it on the ground. what the best way for her to get a piece started raydio?
No, pulling them up does not work. (Tee-hee.) This is especially futile when you are trying to rid yourself of them as well as share them. They do break off and the plant will come back from the root that is left.
If the broken part is treated as a cutting, that is, with a bit of care, all should be well. They *are* tough. It's best done in the summer, but they will surprise you.
Root cuttings can be done in winter.
I have layered a low "branch" in season, and had good results. Just lay part of it underground and stand back!
A natural for hummingbird gardens, trumpet vine excels in any naturalized or woodland area. For sturdy structures, such as arbors, trellises or fences, the vine provides quick cover. During the blooming season, the plant offers an attractive backdrop for shorter plants. When grown along the ground, the hardy vine can camouflage eyesores, like rock piles or tree stumps.
Be careful where you plant it, however, as the leaves cause skin redness and itching in certain individuals. In fact, trumpet vine has a third common name: cow-itch vine