Rotating Houseplants – How Often Should I Turn A Houseplant


By: Liz Baessler

Have you ever noticed that your houseplant leans toward light? Any time a plant is indoors, it’s going to crane itself toward the best light source. This is actually a natural growing process that helps plants in the wild find sunlight, even if they’ve sprouted in the shade. Keep reading for more information and tips on rotating houseplants.

Rotating Houseplants

The process that causes a houseplant to lean toward light is called phototropism, and it doesn’t actually involve leaning at all. Every plant contains cells called auxins, and their growth rate determines the shape of the plant.

Auxins on the side of the plant that receive full sun grow shorter and sturdier, while auxins that are on the shadier side of the plant grow longer and spindlier. This means one side of your plant grows taller than the other, making for that craning, bending effect.

Turning houseplants on a regular basis, however, will help keep your plants looking their best – all of which results in healthier, stronger growth.

How Often Should I Turn a Houseplant?

Sources vary on the rotation of houseplants, recommending a quarter turn everywhere from every three days to every two weeks. A good rule of thumb, and an easy way to add the rotation of houseplants to your routine without adding too much strain on your memory, is to give your plant a quarter turn every time you water it. This should keep your plant growing evenly and healthily.

Fluorescent Lights

An alternative to rotating houseplants is setting up fluorescent lights on the shady side of the plant, causing auxins on both sides to grow sturdily and the plant to grow straight.

Similarly, a light source directly above the plant will make for even and straight growth and doesn’t require a window at all.

If you like your plant’s position and don’t want to get into extra lighting, however, rotating will work just fine.

This article was last updated on

Read more about General Houseplant Care


Why Plant Leaves Turn Yellow and How to Fix Them

From living rooms to landscapes, plants with rich green leaves brighten your day and beautify your world. But sometimes, despite your best efforts, plant leaves turn yellow instead. Known as chlorosis, yellowing happens when something interferes with your plant's chlorophyll — that's the plant pigment behind their beautiful green color. The good news is that yellow leaves let you know plants need help. By reading the signs and taking the right steps, you can remedy yellow leaves and prevent their return.

Most yellow leaves can be traced back to one of these problems:

Yellow patterns on chlorotic leaves provide clues to nutrient deficiencies.


Causes of Dying Houseplants

It is a dirty secret of all gardeners (indoors or outdoors) that sometimes plants die! I’ve had my fair share of plants pass away… it’s sad when your beautiful rare houseplant dies but I make sure that I learn from my mistakes so I’m not condemned to repeat them!

I also want to offer a few words of encouragement… even if you think that you have a black-thumb and will never be able to keep a plant alive, there is hope! It’s just a matter of understanding what you plant needs. Pick low-maintenance and easy plants to start with… eventually, you can level up to the beautiful Fiddle-Leaf Fig!

There are many many reasons why a houseplant might die. However, there are some that are more common than others. We’re going to take a look at the most common reasons and I’ll give you advice on how you might be able to save your plant (or at least, not repeat the same error again!).

It’s important to remember that plants WANT to live! Like all living things, they will do their best to survive even in less-than-ideal conditions. Some plants are pickier than others, so make sure you start out with an easy plant that is suitable for your environment.

The most common reasons for an indoor plant to die or not thrive are:

  • Watering
  • Light
  • Temperature
  • Humidity

Before purchase a new plant you want to make sure you research its needs, so you aren’t setting yourself up for failure!

Most plants in a store will have a handy care guide stuck to the pot or on a tag – take a look at these before buying! You can also pull out your phone and quickly Google the plant.

But even with all the research in the world, you still might experience problems once you get your plant home. Let’s take a look at the most common causes of houseplant death!

You will notice that a LOT of these problems have very common symptoms, such as wilting or yellowing leaves. It can sometimes be tough to decide what is causing the problem. In that case, you want to think about your habits and the environment. Is your plant in a darker room? Do you always forget to water your plants? Has the weather changed and it’s colder now? Sometimes you need to play detective to figure out what is wrong with your plant.


Why Rotate Houseplants?

In most interior spaces, light sources are not available evenly overhead like the vast blue sky outside. More likely, a window provides light—in some cases it may be a skylight or some sort of beneficial overhead lighting source. For example a fluorescent light does not move across the ceiling as the day goes on, and a window does not move around the room.

Plants always grow toward light, and since our interior light sources are fixed, houseplants will begin to grow in a very targeted fashion toward the light. If a light source is off to one side (which it usually is), rotation will signal to the plant that the light source is in a different place. If the light is periodically present at different places all around the plant, it will signal productivity and growth all around, producing balanced foliage production. Trees and cane-type plants will be less likely to lean to one side or another, desperately reaching for light.

If a plant is left to its own devices, it can begin to tilt or grow very off-balance toward the light. In order to prevent this from happening and keep your plant looking great for the long term, regular rotation is recommended. These rotations will produce growth and productivity where foliage is exposed to the light.

Basically, the reason we rotate plants is to distribute light evenly around the entire plant body. When a plant is outdoors the light moves, but indoors, we must simulate this effect by moving the plant.

The objective is to achieve an aesthetic symmetry.


Pachypodiums- THE caudiciform collectors plant- Introduction to the species and cultivational suggestions

One of the premeire caudiciform plants for both pot culture and landscaping are the Pachypodiums. These are pachycaul plants from Madagascar and southern Africa. The following is a brief discussion of the genus, including some tips on care and growing, as well as an introduction to many of the species more commonly encountered in cultivation.

(Editor's Note: This article was originally published on March 25, 2008. Your comments are welcome, but please be aware that authors of previously published articles may not be able to respond to your questions.)

Pachypodiums are members of the family Apocynaceae which also includes Adeniums, Oleanders, Plumeria and Periwinkles. Pachypodium means ‘thick foot', referring to the large, swollen caudiciform stems all members of this genus have. They not only have succulent stems but most are heavily armed with thick, stiff spines on the caudex and branches. They are also protected by their toxic sap (true of all Apocynaceaes, though Pachypodiums have clear sap, not the white latex seen running from Plumeria injuries). Leaves are only present on the top of the caudex (like a palm or fern) or on/near the ends of each branch. The palm-like look of some species is where the name Madagascan Palm comes from. The locals call them Half-mense, or Half Mens, an Afrikaans name that refers to their looking like short (half) men from a distance. All Pachypodiums have flowers at certain times of the year. These flowers are simple, star-shaped and somewhat similar to Plumeria flowers- and some equally fragrant.

Pachypodium lamereis with 'fat feet'

this Pachypodium namaquanum looks a bit like a short person, hence the name Half Mens (photo on right by Hellobebe)

In general the Pachypodiums are fairly easy plants to grow indoors, and even easier outdoors in the right climates (warm and dry). Some Pachypodiums even do well in warm, humid climates like those found in Florida (Pachypodium lamerei and rutenbergianum seem to tolerate those humid climates well). There are a few trickier ones to keep alive if one is careless with watering and doesn't know what to look for.

Pachypodium lamerei happily growing in Florida (photo by Floridian)

These plants are all summer growers and that is normally the time of year they are fully leaved and growing the most vigorously. Some Pachypodium namaquanums in the northern hemisphere seem to retain their southern hemisphere life cycle and try to grow in winter (sometimes predisposing themselves to rot) but this is the only major exception I can think of. Depending on the species, summer is the time of year to water heavily. The more common tree-like species seem the thirstiest drinking up about all the water that can be given them, as long as the soil and temperatures are correct. Most species are deciduous and lose their leaves in winter. This is an indication to stop watering as much, if at all. Outdoor plants in southern California unfortunately often get inundated with heavy rainfall this time of year, but surprisingly this is not a common problem. It seems rainwater is not a problem for most winter dormant succulents, though tap water is something one should definitely avoid using in winter. Depending on yard/pot location some individuals will not go dormant in winter or lose their leaves. Why this is the case I don't know, but perhaps winter rainfall has something to do with it.

Pachypodium geayi cluster in February on left, and same plant in November on right

Soils have to be very well draining or these plants will rot if kept wet too long in poorly draining soils. There are dozens of excellent soil choices, however, and as long as they contain a lot of porous materials (pumice, perlite or scoria), sand and some organic soil (potting soil, decomposed bark etc.) Pachypodiums seem quite content.

This Pachypodium brevicaule is in pure pumice, for the purpose of rooting, and this is too well a draining soil in the long run. but pumice is an excellent base of any good draining soil

All these plants are demanding of high light situations and suffer in dark, shady locations. Most are full sun plants in the wild. If grown indoors, keep in a southwest facing window ideally (these plants may need to be turned periodically from leaning toward the light and growing crookedly).

Pachypodiums are not very cold tolerant plants. Growing them outdoors in marginal climates like those in southern California can be a risky situation, though some species are much more likely to do well than others. Pachypodium lamerei, geayi, lealii (including sandersii) and succulentum are the most likely species to do well outdoors, with many having success also with namaquanum, densiflora and rutenbergianum as well. Most other species are usually grown in pots as they are either too expensive or too touchy to be reliable outdoor plants in marginally frosty climates. Frosts down to 28F rarely are a problem for most of these cooler-hardy species, but temps down to 26F or below will usually cause severe damage to the trunk/caudex. Last year all most of my outdoor Pachypodium saw 25F-27F and had significant damage to the degree that new growing centers had to start forming at the point of injury. Some proceeded to rot from that point on down. If a Pachypodium gets this sort of frost damage, it is recommended they be removed from the offending climate situations (ie dug up and moved indoors, or move the whole pot indoors if in a pot), preferably in a south-facing warm window for recovery. Apply rooting hormone to the injured area and do not water the plant for a long time. Most will recover and at least one (usually several) new stems will grow from the injured site. Sometimes this is a good thing making the plant more interesting. However it can take years if not forever for the unsightly blemish of the frost-scar to look better.

Pachypodiums exposed to cold: on left is the before and after of a Pachypodium lamerei frozen to the point of rot (top had to be cut off), but then two new heads grew back Pachypodium geayi with a sudden freeze damaging all the leaves, and then the after shot of the leaves haven fallen off (they all grew back)

Fertilizer is not usually needed if one is going to repot their plants every 2-3 years. But otherwise a gentle liquid fertilizing in summers is probably not a bad idea, and may promote flowering. It is recommended to use a standard fertilizer that has even quantities of all three major nutrients, or perhaps a tad heavy on the phosphorous in summer. Some provide extra potash or potassium in the summer and fall to help improve winter hardiness (a common practice with Plumeria growers) if growing these outdoors in marginal climates.

There is little unique to keeping these species in pots that differ in any way from keeping other succulents in pots, except remember these get tall and the trunks are full of water, which can make them very heavy, which, if not kept in a heavy enough pot, will make them easy to tip over. This is even more important if growing a large crested plant as these become very top heavy.

Sometimes keeping a plant in a pot is the very best thing, as in this Pachypodium lamerei crest. in the ground the edges of this crest would be underground

The species:

Pachypodium lamerei- this is by far the most commonly grown Pachypodium in cultivation and the one most refer to as the Madagascar Palm (though several are called that). It is one of the faster growing species, obtaining heights around 20' in its native lands (southern Madagascar) and is a thick-trunked, intensely spiny shrub/tree with 0 to several branches. The spines are in groups of three with two long ones next to each other and a shorter one right above them. They are usually about 1" long, stout and fairly sharp. In this species the spines tend to jut out nearly parallel from the trunk and not at the sharp angles the spines of Pachypodium geayi do. The leaves are lancelote and bright green with a pale yellow midrib. Branching usually occurs as a result of injury (trauma, frost damage, insect damage etc.) so I supposed if a plant lead a particularly charmed and protected life, it might remain a solitary stem, topped with a crown of leaves. And in fact, this is often how indoor plants grow as they seem to be injured less often than those grown outdoors. Crested forms are fairly common but still sought after. However, supposedly most crested forms have very limited life spans (at least the crested portion is supposed to) though mine is fine after 3 years and shows no sign of aging, other than the severe freeze damage it got last year. Flowers occur usually in early summer and are white with yellow centers and smell great. This species seems to like a lot of water in the summers and I have yet to discover its limits in tolerating lots of water. It is one of the easiest succulents to grow, both in the ground and in a pot. Just plant it and that's about as tough as it gets. Pachypodium lamereis do well in humid climates like those in Florida, and it may even prefer such climates (the Florida-grown palms always look great and seem to grow much faster than the ones in arid climates).

Flowering outdoor grown plant in summer, southern California close up of mature and newly growing leaves stem detail showing spine arrangement

Crested plant outdoors in early winter. Crests of common in this species

Pachypodium geayi- this one is also called the Madagascar Palm, and is also from Southern Madagascar, though from a more arid climate zone there. In general appearance it is somewhat similar to Pachypodium lamerei, but tends to be even beefier and taller (at least here in California). The primary difference between the two is this species has thinner, greyer-green leaves that are less shiny and have a reddish midrib. Also the spines on this one, also in groups of three, are more equal in length and all point away from the trunk at sharp angles. This plant seems happier in a drier climate than in the humid ones Pachypodium lamerei seems to prefer (though both grow rather well in both climates). Flowers are quite similar in both appearance and smell. I find this plant just about exactly as hardy and fast growing as Pachypodium lamerei, but takes longer to flower.

Colony of old plants at nusery in Southern California shot of flowering plant (photo by MichaelCharters) pair of plants in private garden

two shots of the leaves of this species (Pachypodium geayi)

Pachypodium rutenbergianum- this is the third and last of the giant species of Pachypodium and is the largest and fastest growing of them all (up to 30' in the wilds of Madagascar). However it is also a bit less hardy and touchier, so in marginal climates it might never attain its true potential. The only truly large ones I have seen were in Miami where it really never freezes. My plant is doing pretty well against a west-facing wall, though last frost did kill off the top 3-4" of each branch (causing it to branch many more times). Pachypodium rutenbergianum is a slightly less caudiciform-looking plant keeping a slimmer figure. It also has narrower leaves and less thick, too. The leaves are somewhat shiny dark green with a pale, nearly white midrib, and they recurve a bit. This species is reliably deciduous unlike the above two which will sometimes eke through a winter with some leaves left on. Even in a warm tropical climate like Miami this is a regularly deciduous plant. Spines are paired, short, stout and look a bit like rose thorns. Their arrangement along the trunk and branches seems somewhat random but like all the other Pachypodiums, sit on either side of the leaves (or leaf scars once they fall off). Flowers are white with pale yellow centers, but seem to form while leafless in winter, instead of in summer like the above two.

Mature plant in Miami in summer, and then, flowering, in winter young plant in southern California garden against a west-facing wall

close up of spines on young plant my garden plant after freeze last year, and then this summer (recovered)

Pachypodium namaquanum- This is probably the largest of the southern African species and the one originally referred to as Halfmens. In Africa these plants can grow as tall as 8'-12' but they are pretty slow growing even there. In cultivation they rarely get taller than 3'-4' feet. Branching occurs but is rare and few plants have more than 2-4 branches. Most plants resemble heavily spined pillars, often the same diameter or slightly thinner at the top as at the bottom. Old plants develop a massive girth and one can understand why they were referred to as half men, half plants. The leaves of this plant are pale green and characteristically fuzzy with curious undulating margins. It would be difficult to confuse this species with any other. Flowers are a deep red and form at the top, center of each stem in tight bunches. Spines generally are grouped in threes, but are thin, long and tend to flare a bit outwards. The third spine is below the two paired ones in this species (opposite to Pachypodium lamerei). Hardiness of this species seems to be about halfway between the two common large species and Pachypodium rutenbergianum. But it is very prone to rot if watered heavily in winters, and even rain water can get this one to rot if not kept in very well draining soils and kept in full sun. Though large, old plants are wonderfully impressive landscape specimens, most grow this species in pots.

Excellent colony of plants in southern California nursery top view of plant in garden flowering show plant, showing the fuzzy leaves

Pachypodium saundersii (aka lealii var. saundersii)- The common name of this species is Star of Lundi though I couldn't say why. It is a moderately fast growing species from southern Africa (Zimbabwe and Namibia) up to 4' tall eventually. It is a highly branched plant eventually forming an irregular and somewhat awkward looking shrub. The leaves are smooth, bright, light green and shiny with a thin, white midrib. Leaves exist all along the branches of this species, not just near the growing meristems. This species has paired spines somewhat irregularly spaced along the stems and branches, with the spine size smaller on smaller branches. Flowers are white in the late summer to fall and plants as young as 4 years can flower. This is a popular species because it is so easy to grow, but it is probably one of the least ornamental of the genus, having a less-than-impressive caudex often, and growing somewhat sloppily. However, if deftly pruned and with patience, it can be grown into an attractive plant. Cold hardiness is mild with damage occurring just 2-3 degrees below freezing.

Progress with my own yard plant, first in a pot, then in the planter, and then growing all over the place (fast grower!)

show plant on left with a pretty good caudex flower detail (photo by IslalndJim)

Pachypodium lealii (aka lealii var. lealii) - this closely related plant is slightly similar in form and spination, but the leaves are less shiny, to nearly fuzzy. This species is a bit less branched, but similar in overall shape to Pachypodium saundersii. Spines stick out close to each other in groups of three perpendicularly from the stem, with two long ones below and a much shorter one above. The flowers have distinct pink throats and are smaller overall and more tubular in shape to those of Pachypoidum saundersii. Flowering is generally in early to mid summer. Cold hardiness is pretty good down to about 26F at which point new tender growth is damaged.

my own plant in pot close up of the leaves, spines and new growth in spring summer flowers

Pachypodium succulentum- this is probably the last of the ‘hardy' Pachypodiums, that at least can be grown reliably in the ground in southern California. It is nearly a geophyte with its huge, bulbous caudiciform roots being all underground in nature (southern Africa). However, in cultivation most grow it with the majority of roots above ground for effect. Branches are somewhat soft, twisted and irregularly spiny (thin ½" paired spines). Leaves tend to form only near the ends of each branch (in regions of new growth), and they are thin, short (1"-2" long) pale to mid-green, slightly shiny with a pale midrib, and often curled a bit. Flowers are in late spring to early summer and are tiny, white with pink midribs.

my outdoor plant several years back in summer, and recently in winter Nice, happy specimen in botanical garden in winter southern California on right

show plants on right and left photos, and a flower of my outdoor plant in the middle photo

Pachypodium bispinosum is another southern African geophytic species with similar form in terms of branches, spination and leaf shape. However this species has a massive caudiciform trunk, less twisted and undulating like Pachypoidum succulentum. Leaves are bit wider and longer and flowers are larger, funnel-shaped with pink throats. Cold hardiness in this species is less clear, but it would not surprise me to find it similar to that in succulentum.

two show plants, both in bloom, and then some plants for sale in a southern California nursery (Pachypodium bispinosums)

Pachypodium densiflorum- this is probably the last species to be discussed that has a chance of being grown as an outdoor plant in southern California. Mine has been in the garden for over 3 years and though it did get badly damaged last year during the freeze, all Pachypodiums were equally fried last winter. It recovered quickly (better than Pachypodium rutenbergianum did) and is branching a lot now (in response to the freeze damage). This species is a Madagascan one, as all the below species are, and not all that easy to tell from Pachypodium rosulatum. It has soft, slight fuzzy, ovoid paddle-shaped pale green leaves with white midribs. Spines are paired, short, stout and tend to fall off on the older stems. This is one of the most attractive ornamental plants having a very large, smooth, shiny caudiciform trunk that tends to gently but rapidly taper into several short, thinner but still stout branches- all upright. Flowers are in late summer to fall on long stalks far above the plant. They are relatively large, deep yellow to gold with a characteristic white conical shape at the center of each flower.

Pachypodium densiflorum in collection, and in a plant show (leafless) Flowers (photo by RUK)

my outdoor plant in summer one year, winter last year (usuasual freeze) and recovered this summer again

Pachypodium rosulatum- this plant is similar in overall shape to Pachypodium densiflorum with the large, smooth caudex and the slow tapering to smaller branches. However the leaves are shiny and darker green and slightly narrower. Also the flowers are on shorter stalks and a lightly, brighter yellow without the center cones. Flowering is in mid summer. This plant grows maybe up to 2' tall. There are several varieties of this plant, and Pachypodium cactipes is thought to be a synonym as well.

Pachypodium rosulatum in private collelction (photo by RWhiz) and for sale at CSSC event, and lastly, the flower (photo by KaraAnn)

Pachypodium horombense is another low-growing wonderfully caudiciform species with a fat trunk that tapers elegantly to the branches. This species has somewhat stouter spines, but is overall quite similar. Leaves are tear-drop-shaped, thin and slight wavy to flat with a prominent white midrib. Flowers are quite large (up to 2" diameter) and bright yellow.

Pachypodium horombense in the Huntington as a very old plant younger plant (photo by RWhis) Flower (photo by RUK)

Pachypodium brevicauleis a very unusual plant, rarely growing over 2" in height and looking a bit like a plop of molten silver lava. Leaves are short and tear-drop shaped, light green with a light midrib. Spines are varaible with some plants having almost none. Flowers are bright yellow and on short 3"-5" peduncles held far above the rest of the plant. This species has become increasingly popular recently and more and more can be found for sale at plant shows and nurseries. It used to be quite rare. It is one of the most touchy species really preferring year round temps about the same, and the same goes for watering. This is not one to over OR underwater (don't let it completely dry out). Not cold hardy at all.

Pachypodium brevicaule young plant Flowering older plant very old show plant

Pachypodium baronii is a nearly spineless species (spines are paired but very small and tend to smooth eventually). I have not had any luck trying to grow this species outdoors as it is very frost tender. But if one has a greenhouse or warm place for this plant it can grow up to be a 3' tall plant with a bottle-shaped trunk and brilliantly red flowers in spring.

Pachypodiym decaryi and flower (photos by RUK)

There are about 10-15 other species of Pachypodium, all worthy of pot culture as most are wonderfully ornamental caudiciform plants. These remaining species are still pretty rare in cultivation, though they are showing up in cactus and succulent shows with increasing regularity. Someday one may easily be able to obtain all 23 species and have the ‘complete' collection of these wonderful caudiciforms.

Pachypodium eburnum Pachypodium makayense Pachypodium mikea


Viral Infection

The Spruce / Krystal Slagle

" data-caption="" data-expand="300" data-tracking-container="true" />

The Spruce / Krystal Slagle

If your plant has a viral infection, it might show up as blotchy, spreading yellow patches on leaves throughout the plant. This may be accompanied by deformed leaves and stems, as well as discolored flowers.

Viral infections in plants may not be able to be cured and can infect all susceptible plants nearby.   As soon as a sick plant is noticed quarantine it from the rest of your plants. Check the neighboring plants to ensure the spread is contained. You can take steps to save the plant, but you must first attempt to identify the virus. Some remedies can involve fungicides, while others may require removing healthy parts and propagating. While it may be painful if it's a favorite, you may have to discard any plants that you cannot bring back to health. Wash and sterilize any pruning tools or pots before using on other plants.

Overwatering. Missouri Botanical Garden, 2020

Perry, L. Why Houseplants Drop Leaves. University of Vermont Department of Plant and Soil Science

Hosack, P and Miller, L. Preventing and Managing Plant Diseases. University of Missouri Extension



Previous Article

Do I Need To Prune A Begonia – Learn How To Prune Begonias

Next Article

The territorial context of the Tagghjate