By: Heather Rhoades
An African violet plant is a popular home and office plant due to the fact that it will happily bloom in low light conditions and needs very little care. While most are started from cuttings, African violets are started from cuttings, African violets can be grown from seed. Starting an African violet from seed is a little more time consuming than starting cuttings, but you’ll end up with many more plants. Keep reading to learn how to start African violets from seed.
It is often easiest to simply buy your African violet seeds from a reputable online seller. African violets can be tricky when it comes to forming seeds and, even when they do, the plants grown from the seeds very rarely look like the parent plant.
Despite this, if you would still like to get seeds from your African violets, you will need to hand pollinate the plant. Wait until the flowers start to open and take note of which flower opens first. This will be your “female” flower. After is has been open for a two to three days, watch for another flower to open. This will be your male flower.
As soon as the male flower is open, use a small paintbrush and gently swirl it around the center of the male flower to pick up pollen. Then swirl it around the center of the female flower to pollinate the female flower.
If the female flower was successfully fertilized, you will see a pod form in the center of the flower in about 30 days. If no capsule forms, the pollination was not successful and you will need to try again.
If the pod forms, it takes about two months for it to fully mature. After two months, remove the pod from the plant and carefully crack it open to harvest the seeds.
Planting African violet seeds starts with the right growing medium. A popular growing medium for starting African violet seeds is peat moss. Fully dampen the peat moss before you start planting the African violet seeds. It should be moist but not wet.
The next step in starting an African violet from seed is to carefully and evenly spread the seeds over the growing medium. This can be difficult, as the seeds are very small but do the best that you can to spread them evenly.
After you have spread the African violet seeds, they don’t need to be covered with more growing medium; they are so small that covering them even with a small amount of peat moss can bury them too deeply.
Use a spray bottle to lightly mist the top of the peat moss and then cover the container in plastic wrap. Place the container in a bright window out of direct sunlight or under fluorescent lights. Make sure the peat moss stays moist and spray the peat moss when it starts to dry out.
The African violet seeds should germinate in one to nine weeks.
The African violet seedlings can be transplanted to their own pots when the largest leaf is about 1/2 inch (1.27 cm.) wide. If you need to separate seedlings that are growing too close together, you can do this when the African violet seedlings have leaves that are about 1/4 inch (.6 cm.) wide.
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I bought some african violet seeds(standards) and I plan to start them soon. But before I do, I have some questions.
What kind of soil should I use? I have Miracle Grow seed starting mix. A bag of African Violet potting soil. I also have a bag of sphagnum peat moss and a bag of perlite. Will the seeds grow in a 50-50 mix of the peat moss and perlite?
I also have a bag of vermiculite, but I'm not sure if I want to use it anymore after reading about how vermiculite used to contain asbestos.
I have a plastic take-out container with a clear lid to start them in. Should I make holes in the bottom for drainage?
Once the seedlings start to grow, I have some 3 oz. plastic solo cups I can plant them in. Will these cups be to big for them?
I have an optimara african violet plant that I bought from a greenhouse a few weeks ago and I still haven't repotted it. I plan on leaving it in the same 4 inch pot it came in, just giving it different soil. Will the 50-50 mix of peat moss and perlite work for this plant?
When I first placed my African Violets seeds order from Nadeau African Violets Seeds more than a year ago, I didn’t know what kind of commitment I accepted. But let me start this story from the very beginning.
It looks like the only commercial reliable source of African Violets seeds is Ronn Nadeau. That’s what I learnt after endless hours of searching all over the Internet. They say there is one more supplier in the UK, but I never tried their seeds. It looks like all other seeds sellers I could find were reselling Nadeau seeds as well.
There are plenty of African Violets seeds available on eBay and Aliexpress, and they are mostly fakes – you’ll get some weeds seeds if get any at all. So don’t waste your time and money on those. Go to Ronn Nadeau – he is the loveliest person ever, and his seeds are the real thing.
At first, I ordered one packet of miniatures seeds and one packet of trailer seeds.
The seeds took 16-17 days to germinate and quickly stopped developing. They just sat there – tiny, unhappy plants. I asked fellow growers, and they recommended to add some artificial light and start fertilising as coir itself is not nutritious.
It’s easy to see the lack of progress – the seedlings stayed the same at the age of one and two months.
So I bought a desk LED lamp and started feeding the seedlings. I couldn’t see any significant difference for a few weeks. By that moment I started thinking that coir was the wrong ingredient – my other violets that grew in the same mix were unhappy, with deformed crowns and slow growth. I was quite sure I had mites for a while until I understood that unsuitable growing mix causes all problems.
I decided to repot the seedlings, even though they were too tiny to touch. I used a manicure cuticle pusher as a miniature shovel and transplanted groups of seedlings to a new container.
That transplantation was a gamechanger for the plants. I didn’t have time to do all of them at the same time, so I could see the difference – the newly transplanted seedlings outgrew their non-transplanted siblings in less than a week. The difference was stronger day by day.
The top container was transplanted a week earlier than the bottom one. The difference was clearly visible in just a week after the last transplantation.
I think Jiffy Pellet is a great ingredient for starting seeds – it is peat based, very fine and contains nutrients for the initial seedlings development. I just added some boiling water to the pellets, let them hydrate, broke them and mixed with perlite and vermiculite.
My miniature seedlings were ready to grow in individual pots only by 13th of March 2018 – more than five months after sowing seeds. Trailers were stronger and grew faster, so I started transplanting them on 12th of February (4 months after sowing).
I used 30 ml plastic shot glasses and 60 ml plastic cups as tiny pots and started wick watering all seedlings so they wouldn’t dry out in such small containers.
I waisted way too much time and gave my plants a difficult start, so they didn’t have a chance to bloom early. They slowly started flowering at the age of 10-11 months after sowing, and I still have enough of them just trying to show their first flower.
African violets are very easily propagated from leaf. Even inexperienced growers can quickly produce additional plants and expand their collection.
Step 1: Remove and trim leaf. Remove a fresh leaf from the plant that you wish to propagate. It’s best to use a mature leaf, but not one that’s old and tough. Using a sharp knife or razor, trim away the top of the leaf blade. This isn’t a necessary step, but it will encourage faster production of roots and plantlets from the leaf when it’s rooted, and will stop the leaf itself from growing.
Step 2: Cut leaf petiole. See photo at right. Cut the petiole (i.e. leaf stem) at a 45 degree angle, cut-side facing up, to about 1/2″ in length. By cutting at an angle, this will encourage more root and plantlet production, and they will more likely appear in front of the rooted leaf, rather than hidden behind or underneath it.
Step 3: Root the leaf cutting. See photo at left. Fill a small pot with your rooting medium. This mix should be very light and porous. Our rooting mix is 1 part Pro-Mix (a soil-less peat an perlite mix) and 3 parts coarse vermiculite. Any mix at least this light is acceptable (some growers use only vermiculite or mix with perlite). The mix should be moistened (not too soggy, or the leaf will rot). Make a narrow hole in the mix–we like to use a “swizzle stick” for doing this. Push the leaf petiole into this hole, up to the bottom of the leaf blade (as shown), and firm-in rooting mix around it. More than one leaf cutting may be rooted into a single pot, if there’s room. Label the pot and place it into a clear, covered container or plastic baggie. Then, place this in a bright place with moderate temperature–no direct sun or very warm locations, since this may cause the leaf cutting to rot or burn.
Step 4: Plantlets at 12 weeks. One or more plantlets will begin to develop from the cut end of the rooted leaf’s petiole, and will make their way above the soil. Those pictured are ready to be separated and planted now, but we usually wait 4-5 months, since the extra time allows more plantlets to grow from the cutting. The plantlets also will be just a bit bigger, easier to handle, and more likely to survive their transplanting.
Step 5: Separate plantlets from leaf cutting. See photo at right. When plantlets are large enough for you to comfortably handle them, they can be separated from the “mother” leaf. Remove the cutting from its pot, firmly grasp a plantlet, and gently pull it away from the leaf cutting. If your rooting mix is light, and not overly soggy, this should be easily done without need for a knife. Don’t worry too much if your plantlet doesn’t have many (or even any) roots–so long as the plantlet itself is healthy, it will produce roots when it is potted.
Step 6: Prepare pot for plantlet. See photo at left. Fill a small pot (2″ or 2 1/4″) with your regular soil mix. Make a small hole deep enough to hold the plantlet to be potted–we like to use an old pencil to do this.
Step 7: Pot plantlet. See photo at right.Gently push plantlet into hole and firm-in soil around it. Plantlet should be placed deep enough into soil so that none of the bare central stem or ‘trunk’ is exposed, but not so deep as to bury the tiny growing point in the center of the plant.
Step 8: You’re done! Label the plant and lightly water. Larger plantlets can be immediately placed amongst your other violets. If the plantlet is still very small and/or has few roots, you might want to place it into a clear, covered container or plastic baggie. This will provide a small “terrarium”-like environment, and will protect it while it gets established. Remove it from this container in a few weeks.
Hello, my plantelets are staying the same size for 12months now . They look like your plantelets at 12 weeks, . They are next to my adult African violets , which are doing fine. Is there anything that can be done to speed up the growth ? They are in 2 inch starter pots in very light soil. I did use a much older leaf (because that’s all I’ve had of my original AV that my cats knocked over). It seems that did make the process just to get the babies slower (6 months to see the first baby, 12 weeks to get to the size I see on your pictures, and now sitting at the same size for 12 months)
Propagating from an older leaf will mean waiting longer for babies, but once these are potted up, they should grow as well as any other plant. From the information you provided, can’t give you a good answer. Even, consistent, watering habits are probably the most important for younger plantlets, as well as good light and environment. They will need much the same care as your more mature plants but, given they are smaller and less established, it is more important that care is even and consistent–they will be less forgiving of fluctuations in care or neglect.
Hi! Thanks so much for this info. I was wondering if when you mention Pro-Mix you are referring to the basic potting mix, or the Pro-Mix specifically for African Violets?
The are many different formulations of Pro-Mix. We use the “HP” or “BX” formulations. Basically, it is just a quality peat-based mix that we can buy in large quantities to use as a base for our own mix. The one you mention is must one of these formulations (that I’m unfamiliar with).
Several months ago I tried to propagate my grandmother’s African violet by putting a healthy leaf (with some root powder) in a pot and covering it with a plastic sandwich bag. It’s been at least three months, probably longer. The leaf itself is still alive and has looked healthy, although it’s starting to curve back a bit. So I assume it must have grown roots by now. But so far, I’m not seeing any new plantlet growth. Any idea what went wrong, or if there’s something I should do? Should I remove the bag, at this point, or leave it? Is there anyway to stimulate new plantlets?
Nothing may be wrong. How long a leaf takes to produce plantlets will depend upon many things. Fresher, younger and more tender (but mature) leaves will root best and produce plantlets faster. Usually, people use the oldest leaves that would otherwise be discarded–these are will be the hardest to use. Be patient, eventually you will see plantlets.
I have a plant that was growing out of a small cocoa fiber rooting cone planted in a pot with potting soil. The plant got big and I repotted it. I did not remove the old fiber cone from the stem and it was buried in the new pot still on the stem. The stem rotted at the point where it entered the fiber cone.
What is the best way to get this plant to reroot?
See our lesson on “restarting an African violet”. It sounds like you need to reroot the crown.
How often do you have to water a leaf that is rooting in a soil-less compound?
Depends upon how quickly it dries. Rule for watering is always when surface is “dry to the touch”. We cover our leaves (enclose in clear plastic container or bag), so watering isn’t an issue.
i wanted to start having an african violet but my country when 2pm (the hottest hour) is almost 100″F / 38°c do you think african violet will survive here?
If this is the temperature where the violet actually is (if grown indoors and not outside), and happens frequently, then no. An African violet will survive the occasional day when it is that warm, though it won’t be happy.
Hello I’m in desperate need of help. One of my foster dogs knocked my Africa violet out of the window and shredded it. I have the main stem with connected roots but no leaves and multiple whole mature leaves in a bowl of water. Is there anything I can do to revive even apart of this plant. I found it very fast after it happened. It was a gift from a friend of mine that moved far away so it is very important to me.
If you’ve lost the center/growing point of the plant, your best bet is rooting the leaves.
I’ve managed to make new plantlets easily and they gave flowered, but they have produced bland white flowers, not the attractive purple and white of the original. Any Ideas?
Puzzled as I’d thought the genetic information would have been identical.
There is always some small amount of variation, and will vary more with multicolors. Environment and care will play a big part as well.
Hi I have always rooted in water, (small glass with plastic wrap on top in sunny window) roots grow great just don’t know when to put in pot
I successfully rooted leaves nearly a year ago. They are very healthy, but have not yet produced plantlets. Any ideas?
They should have produced plantlets by now. If leaves were very old, rooted too deeply, in too firm a mix, or in extreme conditions (too wet/dry, hot/cold, etc), this can reduce the success rate and time.
How long after you get babies will it take for them to bloom? I have a about 20 , some are about 3 months old, nothing yet.
Depends upon variety, care, and environment. We usually will be blooms within 3-6 months of first potting them.
I started mine in a seedling tray with commercially available planting disks that expand with water. It comes with a clear plastic cover that preserves the humidity. It’s been 5 weeks, and 5 of the 8 cuttings have leaves. The cuttings are going into 2-3 inch pots this weekend. Thanks for the advice.
I’ve been given two mature leaves which have already been potted in a terracotta pot to propagate. They’ve been in this pot for at least 12 weeks and look healthy. My question is should I leave them alone and hope they grow roots as is or should I plant them in a small plastic container. I’ve put a clear plastic bag over them as recommended. Thank you.
Nothing wrong with terracotta pots–what everyone used before we had plastic. It is easier in plastic though, since the soil can be kept more evenly moist, which is important when rooting leaves or cuttings, which have small (or no) root systems. The baggie will help, since it will keep soil and pot from drying too quickly.
Hi! I need some advice. I did not know that you should not use rooting powder when putting baby plantlets in new pots. The baby is still alive after 4 weeks so should I try to wash off the powder and repot ? I wish that I had found your sight earlier. I have learned a lot! Also the mother violet leaf is white and green variegated. Thanks !
Leave as it is. Apparently, there was no harm done. Rooting powder, though not necessary, is not always harmful for violet cuttings.
Hello, I love you advice and am about to try to propagate my plants. Should I put the newly potted leaves in a greenhouse instead of a plastic box/bag? Will baby bio be ok to feed? I’d like my plants to remain small as I’ve bought some miniature clay pots? Will it be hard to keep them small? Thanks so much. Kind regards Jennifer
You can. They will stay small only if they are miniature varieties. We prefer plastic pots, especially for minis, but clay is fine–you’ll just find yourself watering more frequently to keep the tiny root systems moist. We are not familiar with “baby bio” so cannot knowledgeably comment on it.
Hello, Your site has been very helpful, thank you. Six and a half weeks ago I followed your directions for propagation with a small African violet that I love (I think it is a saintpaulia chantabent from the descriptions I have read).
I had my first tiny leaf peak up from the soil yesterday and am so excited. My question is, when do I take off the plastic baggie? I plan to let them grow for the 4-5 months that you suggest before re-potting.
Thank you again.
You can remove the baggie once you know cuttings are rooted and plantlets begin to appear. Repot when they are large enough for you to confidently handle.
I have 1 question. Right now I have a medium sized av, but hasn’t flowered for at least 2 years. The plant is healthy, and I recently propogated 2 leaves from it. What am doing wrong? ( I’d hate to think I can only raise baldies! Thanks for your time!!
If a plant is growing and healthy, but not blooming, provide it with more light.
Do you feed it. I use Schultz liquid violet food. I use 10 drops per quart (I have a 1/2 gal milk jug that I marked off at the 4 cup line and the 8 cup line). This way I can keep food prepared all the time
Yes. We fertilize each time we water.
Morning. Similar situation – plant from a cutting still not blooming after about 18 months. Light? Don’t think so since the 2 pots on the same tray have not stopped blooming for the past 8 months! Same water, same feeding, same light?
I got some leaves in the mail to propagate, I have some in a soil-less mix and others in water. The ones in water are starting to go limp, should I cut the edge again and try in soil or should I just leave them in the water? Its been about a week since I’ve gotten them.
We prefer to root directly in a very light potting mix, and keeping under cover in clear container or baggie. This keeps them from drying out or wilting. Much will depend upon the freshness of the leaves you received to begin with, as well as the environment you are growing them in.
Thank you for your help with these sweet beauties.
Can a stem only be rooted, a stem with no leaf?
Just wondering if that’s possible? AV seem to be very easy to root!
Thanks for your advice/
This likely wouldn’t be successful. You can root the leaf blade without the petiole, however.
I have a mature AV plant with a very long stem. The plant is beginning to die. Following your directions I’ve put 6 leaves in 2 pots. But how do I get this stem shorter. It was growing sideways out of the pot. Can I cut the stem?
See our lesson on “restoring an African violet”.
Thank you for this informative description. I have ended up with loads of plants, having propagated them this way. In the process of potting them up, I must have used a nitrogen rich compost (bought houseplant compost in the UK) as I have masses of leaves but no flowers. I think I’ll start again and see what happens.
Though the mix may play a minor role, lack of blooms is more likely result of lack of adequate light.
I’ve cut leaves and placed them in a glass of water – stems in the water. This was about 4 weeks ago. The leaves look great but I don’t see any small plants yet at the base of the stems. My mom used to do this all the time and had great results. How long does this process take? I was very young when my mom did this and I wasn’t paying attention to time back then. Thank you!
It can take more than 4 weeks. We prefer rooting in a soil mix.
I started mine in water, then after small root hairs appeared, placed them in soil, then followed the same process as shown here….
I have rooted African violets successfully in water and soil, but I have never put them in a ziplock bag. I’m trying that this time. Once I close the ziplock bag do I open it at all? If I do open it, how often?
You won’t need to. Soil should be moist, not soggy, so nothing rots.
I grew my first two plantets from two leaves. I think I made an error because I planted both in the same pot. They are growing beautifully but the leaves are too crowded. Do I need to separate them? How do I do that when they are growing interlaced? Thanks!
They should separated and put into their own pots. Neither should need more than a few rows of leaves (12-15), so remove older, lower leaves beyond this number.
Hello Violet Barn,
I found your site and enjoy your helpful lessons on Violet care. I have several plantlets that I started with your instruction. They have made it into their own pots and are growing beautifully, I am waiting patiently for blooms! Thank You so much for sharing your expertise.
I wanted to share how I have eliminated mealy bugs. I use rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip and dab the little buggers. You need to be diligent about this everyday until they are eradicated. Also, be sure to quarantine the infected plant.
plantlets at 12 weeks? That’s way too long. Mine only takes 6-7 weeks from various types.
Yes, it can be much faster, but often much slower–all depends upon leaf used and environment. 12 weeks is just a reasonable expectation.
Hello, I have yet two little plants from a “mother leaf”. As They are still only 3 almost 4 months, I hadn’t split them yet, but I transplanted them into a bigger pot, doing it I accidentally broke the “mother leaf”! will they die? May I do something to help them continue growing without their mother? Can I plant the mother leaf again?
Once the plantlets appear, you won’t need the “mother” leaf. They should be fine. You can reroot the mother leaf, though these leaves typically aren’t nearly as productive in producing plantlets quickly the second time around. Fresh, tender, leaves are always better to propagate with.
I started my AV from two leaves in water. When roots started showing up, I planted them both in a pot and they grew beautifully. It still looks great, the leaves green and healthy, but no flowers are coming. It has been about 3 months since I planted them. When should flowers start showing up?
On some varieties, blooms can appear this quickly but, on others, you may have to wait longer. All depends upon the variety and your environment and care. Goot loight is most important for a mature plant to bloom.
I’m looking to possibly buy leaf cuttings in the near future. Is it better to have a fresh cut stem when setting them up, or can I place the leaves with the original cut from the seller straight into soil?
One of the most common ways of planting African violet is through seeds. Plant the seeds in a small pot with soil. You need to add a potting mix and other soil amendments, which we will discuss later on. An artificial light may also be necessary to speed up the growth of your African violet.
Another method of propagating African violet is through growing leaf in a water. Simply immerse the tip of a leaf from a healthy plant in water, preferably from a bottle with a thin neck. Use a clean tool to cut the leaf, making sure that it will not transfer infection. Cut at least two inches of the stem. Use a plastic to cover the top part of the bottle, which will help in controlling humidity.
You can also plant leaf on the soil in a pot. To do this, cut a leaf with about two inches of stem. Bury it in the soil and press firmly. Cover the pot with clear plastic. There is no need for watering as the plastic will help to retain its moisture.
Now that you know the different methods to plant, the next thing that you have to learn would be the ideal growing conditions. In this case, one of the most important is the soil, which will serve as the foundation of your plant. The soil needs to be porous and light, which will be critical for aeration. To keep the soil in its best state, consider having several amendments, such as perlite, vermiculite, and peat moss.
The right light will also be a critical factor in growing African violets. It will be best to place it by the window where it will receive bright, but not direct sunlight. In the case of a greenhouse, be sure to filter light intensity. Take note of the flower of the variety that you are planting. Those with darker flowers will need more light exposure. To add, if you are growing them under fluorescent lights, make sure to position the leaves up to 15 inches away from the leaves.
More so, you also need to pay attention to the right temperature. Ideally, it should not be lower than 60 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature is too high, there is a possibility that it will not flower at all.
Lastly, water is another critical growing condition. Warm and tepid water is the best to keep the soil moist, especially during the dry season. Water straight on the soil and not on the leaves. Touch the top of the soil. If it feels too dry, this is a sign that you need to water it. Also, you need to build proper drainage. If the water stays too long in the soil, it will turn soggy and will make it more prone to the presence of pathogens.
A Small Plant Pot Decoration Displayed of African Violet and Succulent
Step-by-Step instructions on how to start an African Violet from a leaf cutting.
Are your African violets getting old and unshapely with multiple crowns and suckers? Do you have a friend or co-worker who grows the most beautiful African violets, and that person will give you some single leaf cuttings, so you can start some plants of your own? This blog post shows you the two easy steps that it takes to growing an African violet from a leaf cutting.
List of supplies
A leaf with stem cut from an African violet plant,
A small clear plastic or glass cup,
A rubber band,
A piece of waxed paper to cover the top of your cup or glass,
A pair of scissors.
A small pot to plant up your rooted leave,
A commercial soil mix intended for house plants and African violets.
Step One… Fill a glass or plastic cup almost to the brim with room temperature water. Take your piece of waxed paper and cut a small “X” in the center of the waxed paper, just big enough to fit the stem of the African violet through (the waxed paper will suspend the leaf above the water). Position the piece of paper over the rim of the glass and hold it in place with your rubber band. Insert your African violet cutting into the “X” shaped slit (See number 1 on the illustration).
After about two weeks in the water, you will notice that the African violet has started growing roots (about 1/4th inch long). Quickness of root growth will depend on the time of year you start the cutting. If you start the cutting in the Spring or early Summer when most plants start their growing cycle, it will probably grow quicker, than if you start it in the Fall or Winter, when plants are in their dormant or resting period.
Place your glass with cutting in a spot in your house where it gets somewhat bright, but not direct-beating down sunlight, which would fry the leaf.
Step Two… About four weeks after you see roots forming, and they are about one and a half inches long, you can pot up your leaf. Plant the leaf in a small pot (no larger than 2 to 3 inches wide), which is filled with a soil mix made especially for house plants and African violets. After about two to three months, you will see small baby leaves starting to grow at the base of the mother leave (see illustration 2). When the baby leaves are about an inch tall, or the mother has started to die, cut off the mother leave, so all the energy goes to the baby leaves.
When the leaves have matured for size, transplant the baby plant into a pot no larger than 4 inches wide as pots too big will make African violets slow to bloom. If you can, grow your African violets in clay pots. Clay absorbs moisture and then releases humidity through evaporation, which the plant will like. If things work out right, and your plant is happy, you will have a new blooming plant in about a year.
Lighting for African violets…
Place plants in windows that get morning sun, preferably from the east, during the Fall and Winter, but move them more into the room, out of direct harsh light during Spring and Summer. Strong Spring and Summer light could/will fry the leaves. A north facing window is also a good place for your African violets to spend the Spring and Summer months.
Water plants with slightly warm or room temperature water, try not to use cold water. Make sure that the plants have drained well after watering, and that the plants are not sitting in excess water. If you try to wash dust off of your African violet’s leaves, use somewhat warm, but not hot water to clean the leaves, as cold water will cause leaf spotting. After washing, let them dry completely before putting them back in the light.
Feeding the plants…
Fertilize your African violets using a low nitrogen, high phosphorous water-soluble plant food, you can find that at garden centers, and follow the directions on the package.
So there you have it, a quick overview on how to grow African violets. As a kid, I remember my mother having many African violets, so many really, that they filled a bow-window. She loved bringing them into bloom, and they were an easy houseplant for her to keep. I hope you are inspired in some way by this post, and you too try growing an African violet or two yourself.
Recreate the conditions they love in the wild. They need winter and spring sunshine but summer shade, so the ideal spots are under deciduous trees and shrubs. They used to be grown commercially in orchards, providing fruit growers with a spring crop of blooms to sell before the autumn harvest of apples and pears.
Beside above, can African violets grow outside? No, not at all. African violets are tropical plants from East Africa. That's why they make good indoor plants. They would never survive outdoors in most U.S. climates as a normal violet would.
Then, how do African violets grow?
To grow African violets, start them from seed or plant a leaf from a mature African violet. When you plant your violets, use a well-draining soil that's slightly acidic and choose small pots. Then, put your plants in a warm, humid spot that gets lots of indirect sunlight.
Why are African violets called?
It received its common name of African violet as a result of the location in which it naturally grows, but also because the flower itself bears a striking resemblance to the true violet.