The Venus flytrap plant (Dionaea muscipula) is the only representative of the genus Dioneus from the Rosyankov family. In nature, you can see such bushes in some American states on the Atlantic coast: they are usually found in swampy areas. Although the Venus Flytrap is listed as an endangered plant today, it retains its popularity as an unusual home flower.
The Latin name for the bushes means "mousetrap", although flower traps are dangerous only for insects. Presumably, the reason for this inconsistency was a mistake - the species Dionea Muscipula was supposed to be called a "fly trap" - "muscicipula".
The common name of the genus - Dionea - was given by the name of the Greek goddess - mother Aphrodite. The British also call the bushes "Venus flycatchers." The unusual name of the species is associated with the shape of the plant's leaf traps. According to one version, they resemble shells - one of the symbols of the feminine principle and the goddess Venus, born from sea foam.
Dionea is a herbaceous perennial. This genus includes only the Venus flytrap. Its potted bushes grow up to 15 cm in height, and in nature they are about 20 cm in size. The underground stem looks like a bulb. During flowering, a tall peduncle is formed on it with simple white flowers, forming an inflorescence-shield. The size of the peduncle allows insects to pollinate flowers without fear of falling into a trap. On pollinated flowers, boxes with small black and shiny seeds are tied.
The underground stalk of the Venus flytrap forms from 4 to 7 leaves, forming a rosette. Closer to the end of flowering, traps up to 15 cm long appear on them. Their color is green, but the inner part begins to turn red from the bright light. Sometimes the color changes depending on the age of the bush. Some varieties of the plant can glow a little with a pale blue light - the accumulated sunlight allows them to lure victims even in the dark.
The predatory "habits" of the Venus flytrap are determined by the conditions of its habitat. The swamp swamps on which it grows are very poor in nitrogen, therefore, the flower assimilates the essential element for life, hunting slugs and insects.
Traps are formed at the top of the short petioles for photosynthesis. Gradually, the petioles begin to grow and go up. Each trap located above them has two valves surrounded by sparse bristles. Victims are attracted to them by the scent of nectar produced by the glands. When they touch the sensitive trigger hairs inside the trap, its shutters slam shut, and the flower begins to digest the prey. This takes about 5-10 days, after which the trap returns to its original position. Each such trap is capable of capturing and processing up to 3 insects, after which it dies off, although sometimes their number can reach up to 7-10 pieces.
The structure of the plant provides for protection from accidental slamming of traps due to drops of water or debris falling on them. For them to work, you need to act on at least a couple of hairs for 20 seconds. The flower independently calculates whether it is worth it to launch the "mechanism" of the trap, so as not to close it in vain - after all, it takes a lot of effort. Only "calculating" that the prey will allow him to get enough, the bush finally catches it and begins the process of digestion.
VENERINA flycatcher or Dionea ✔️ CARE OF A PREDATORY PLANT ✔️ Feed the flycatcher
The table shows brief rules for caring for the Venus flytrap at home.
|Lighting level||Scattered bright beams are required. In this case, about 4 hours a day, the bush should be under direct sun. The western or eastern side will be optimal for him. If the flower is kept in a florarium, supplementary lighting should be used.|
|Content temperature||In summer, during the growth period - about 20-30 degrees, in winter - up to 7 degrees.|
|Watering mode||Bottom watering is preferred. A pot with a flower is placed in a container with rain or distilled water so that the holes at the bottom of the container are immersed in it. This will allow the plant to absorb the right amount of moisture on its own.|
|Air humidity||Very high humidity is required, so the Venus flytrap is often grown in terrariums or florariums.|
|The soil||Growing the Venus Flytrap requires a soil that includes perlite, a double portion of peat, and half of a quartz sand.|
|Top dressing||Flies replace the habitual feeding of the bush. During the period of growth, one bush will be enough 2-3 pieces. But they must all be alive and not too large. Putting your prey in the same trap is not worth it.|
|Transfer||Venus flytrap is transplanted in early spring every 2-3 years.|
|Bloom||Flowering occurs in May-June, lasting 2-3 weeks.|
|Dormant period||Starting in autumn, watering is reduced, making sure that there is no water left in the pan. Until March, the bush should be kept in a cool (about 7-10 degrees) dark place without food. Watering is carried out only occasionally. At the beginning of March, the pot is returned to its place, after pruning - all old traps are removed from the bush. Then they gradually return to the previous leaving schedule.|
|Reproduction||Separation of baby rosettes, cuttings, peduncles, or seeds set after artificial insemination.|
|Pests||Occasionally - aphids, spider mites.|
|Diseases||Rot, sooty fungus.|
Subject to the rules of care, the plant can live up to 30 years. The Venus flytrap can be grown both at home and in the garden. But for the healthy development of the green predator, special conditions are required.
For full growth, the Venus flytrap should be kept on bright east or west windows. This is the easiest way to fulfill the requirements of the plant: about 4-5 hours of direct light per day, after which the lighting becomes diffused. Best of all, the bush assimilates direct light in the morning or evening. The dark corner involves the use of lamps. Lack of illumination affects the appearance of the Venus flytrap and the brightness of its color.
At home, Venus flycatchers are often grown in special containers - florariums or terrariums, which make it possible to provide plantings with high humidity. Due to the dryness of the air, the foliage of the bush begins to dry out and loses its attractiveness. So that the flower does not suffer from a lack of lighting in such a vessel, it is supplemented with a lamp of 40 watts. It should be located 20 cm from the bush and provide about 15 hours of daylight.
Venus flytrap also needs fresh air. The plant does not tolerate the lack of air circulation, so the room with it should be ventilated more often. At this time, they try not to expose the bush itself to a draft. In summer, the flycatcher can be transferred to the balcony, providing it with shelter from excessively bright light. But the bush perceives any movement very painfully, so it is not worth turning it to the light in different directions.
In summer, the Venus flytrap calmly tolerates both moderate heat and heat. The optimum temperature for a plant in the summer is 20-30 degrees. In winter, the flower is kept cool - at about 7 degrees. Without a drop in temperature for 3-4 months, the bush will not live longer than 1.5-2 years.
Falling asleep, the flycatcher sheds foliage. During this period, a pot with a bush can even be stored in the refrigerator, but it should not be colder than 2 degrees in the compartment with a flower. At the same time, in their homeland, Dionei are able to endure a mild winter under the snow, but they do not survive frost.
The roots of the Venus flytrap are not adapted to assimilate mineral salts and nutrients from the soil, so only soft rainwater should be used for irrigation. Once collected, it should be stored in a plastic container. If you cannot use rainwater, the flower is watered with distilled or bottled water.
The soil in the pot must maintain constant moisture - overdrying the soil can lead to the death of the traps. But the usual watering should be replaced with lower ones. If you water the plant from above, the soil will begin to thicken and the soil will become less acidic. Instead, the container with the flower is placed on a tray of water so that the drainage holes are immersed in it. This allows the flycatcher itself to draw in the required amount of moisture.
To maintain the air humidity necessary for the Venus flycatcher (about 70%), it is planted in aquariums, florariums or terrariums. The bottom of the container is poured with expanded clay, periodically pouring water into it, which will evaporate. Do not cover the aquarium with a lid, this will block the flow of air to the flower, and also block the path of insects.
The predator absorbs all the necessary elements from its prey, therefore, it will not need additional fertilizing: the soil in the pot is not fertilized.
The Venus flytrap has its own nutritional preferences and is not able to assimilate every insect. So beetles with a hard shell, gnawing species and earthworms can damage her traps. Also, you cannot feed the flower with ordinary meat or sausage - such a menu may end with the development of rot on the traps. If food that is not suitable for the flower was put into the trap, but it slammed shut, you should not open it by force. After a couple of days, the flaps should open by themselves. During the growth period, it will be enough for the bush to catch a couple of medium-sized spiders, flies or mosquitoes. Bushes growing on the balcony or on the street will be able to attract prey themselves. In other cases, a fly or mosquito can be caught and run to the flower in the aquarium.
In some cases, it is not worthwhile to arrange such feeding for a flycatcher. A plant that is sick, growing in an inappropriate environment, or recently undergoing the stress of transplanting or changing conditions will not be able to properly absorb the prey. A "well-fed" bush will also not catch flies. It's not worth touching the traps for fun, you can accidentally damage them.
From the end of September, the Venus flytrap is no longer fed - the plant retires and such food will not be required until spring.
This PREDATORY PLANT eats even animals! Venus flytrap or Dionaea (Dionaea muscipula)!
The soil for planting should include perlite, double peat and half quartz sand. The sand must first be boiled in distillate, perlite is kept in water for a week. Too nutritious soils are avoided - they will not benefit the bush. You can purchase a special potting mix if you wish. Expanded clay should not be added to the soil - it is considered too alkaline for a flower. The flycatcher will not need drainage either.
The indoor venus flytrap assumes a systematic spring transplant. It is held every 2-3 years. A high but not too wide container is suitable for growing: the size of the roots can reach up to 20 cm in length. Clay pots are preferred.
The plant is transplanted into a new pot carefully, taking care not to damage the roots. The bush is pulled out of the container, carefully cleaned of soil residues, if necessary, soaking the soil clod in water, and then the foliage is washed with a spray bottle. The transplanted plant should remain dormant for about 5 weeks, adapting to the new soil. All this time it should be kept in partial shade and watered abundantly.
If the Venus flytrap is planned to be kept in the garden in the summer, a container about 20 cm deep and about 30 cm wide is prepared for it. The surface of the substrate must be covered with moss, which prevents the soil from drying out quickly. At the same time, for a bush, a moderately bright place is selected, sheltered from too scorching rays.
Venus flytrap blooms in late spring or early summer, after the final awakening. In this case, the plant forms a long peduncle with a corymbose inflorescence at the top. It is formed by flowers up to 1 cm in size with a sweet aroma.
Flowering lasts only a few weeks, but it takes a lot of energy from the bush. Its traps develop much worse, acquiring a tiny size. The growth of the entire plant also slows down. If there is no need to collect seeds, the flowers are removed even before opening, cutting off the arrow at the root. Sections are powdered with crushed coal. But the fact of flowering in itself indicates that the bush is being looked after correctly. The cut arrow can be used to reproduce the flower. It is rooted like a stalk, without cutting off the crown.
In autumn, the Venus flytrap stops forming new foliage and prepares for a dormant period. To help the plant go into a dormant state, it is necessary to reduce the number and volume of waterings. The water from the pallet must be drained. In winter, the flower is kept in the shade and cool (about 7-10 degrees). Usually, closed balconies or a vegetable compartment of the refrigerator are suitable for this. The sleeping flycatcher does not need either light or food - its foliage dries up completely, although they do not stop watering the plant. Watering is carried out only occasionally in order to prevent decay of the root system, using water at the same temperature as that of the environment surrounding the flower.
At the beginning of March, the plant is returned to its usual place, all old traps are cut off and the usual leaving schedule is resumed, gradually returning to the lighting and watering regime. But the bush will not begin to develop actively immediately, but only by the end of May.
The bushes that were grown outdoors, before the onset of cold weather, are brought into the basement for safe wintering, and are returned to the garden only with the arrival of heat.
Venus flytrap seeds can only be obtained through artificial pollination. After waiting for flowering, the pollen is transferred from one flower to another with a brush or cotton swab. Ideally, two different plants are pollinated. If you carry out the procedure correctly, a box with seeds will form in place of the pollinated flower in a month.
The seeds obtained in this way remain viable for only a few months, so you should not hesitate with sowing. It is carried out immediately after collection. To increase the germination of both fresh and older seeds, you can use stratification - they should spend about 5 weeks in the refrigerator in a tightly closed bag with moss. Moss can be replaced with cotton pads slightly soaked in a disinfecting solution (a few drops of fungicide in a glass of distilled water). Holes are made in the bag for ventilation, and once a week they look in there to check and, if necessary, re-moisten. If the seeds develop mold, they are cleaned with a fungicide and the procedure is repeated. For old seeds about 3-4 months old, the period can be increased to 7-8 weeks.
For germination, take a container filled with warm soil, 2/3 consisting of sphagnum and 1/3 of quartz sand. The prepared seeds are distributed superficially, without deepening, and then sprayed and tidied up in a mini-greenhouse. Crops should be in diffused light - on a windowsill or under a lamp. At a temperature of 24-30 degrees, seedlings will appear in about 2-3 weeks. The soil in the container should be checked daily for moisture and watered as needed. The shelter is removed daily for ventilation. After another 2-3 weeks, the sprouts can be cut into separate pots up to 9 cm in diameter. After 4 months of development, the bushes will begin to prepare for wintering. If the calendar winter has not yet arrived, you can again transplant the Dionei into fresh soil, shifting the rest period to a later date. Such Venus flytrap will be considered adults only in the 5th year of cultivation.
It is necessary to cut a leaf from a bush, capturing an area near the bulb itself. The area of the cut is treated with a growth stimulant, and then the leaf is planted at an angle in the same mixture as when sowing seeds. You can remove the trap from the handle. The seedling is covered with a jar or bag and placed in a bright place. The leaf is kept in such conditions until the shoots appear at the base of the seedling: this takes about 1-3 months. But the percentage of rooting of flycatcher leaves is small - many plantings die due to fungal diseases.
Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula): propagation by leaf cuttings
The easiest and most effective way to get new copies of the Venus flytrap is to divide its bushes. Usually it is combined with a transplant. The overgrown bush is pulled out of the ground, cleaned from the ground, and then with a sharp and clean tool, daughter sockets with their own roots (at least two) are cut off from it. Children are seated in their own pots and kept in the shade until rooting is complete. If traps are already present on the bush, during this procedure they try not to touch them.
But you should not remove all the baby outlets from the Venus flytrap. The plant develops much better when it retains several small shoots-bushes, therefore, the division is carried out no more than once every 2-3 years.
If your plans include the reproduction of the Venus flycatcher by a peduncle, then it is better to do this when it grows in length to 4-5 cm. After that, the peduncle is cut off and shallow, 1 centimeter is enough, buried in peat. The rooted peduncle is covered with a cap, creating greenhouse conditions for it.
Now it remains to wait for the appearance of a young growth. It won't happen quickly. Throughout the waiting period, carefully ventilate the rooted peduncle and keep the soil moist.
The peduncle can dry out over time, have a lifeless appearance, but this does not mean that the process has failed. After 1.5-2 months, new growth will appear, which means that you will have new exotic plants.
Although the Venus flytrap itself is able to cleanse the house of some insects, some pests can still attack the predator. They usually settle outside the leaves or are too small to affect the villi of the traps. So when aphids appear, traps can deform. To get rid of such insects, the flower is treated with an aerosol insecticide. You can also use folk remedies - infusions of odorous herbs that aphids do not like.
From dry indoor air, a spider mite may appear on the bush. It feeds on foliage sap and most often appears on the underside of the plates. You can recognize the danger by the cobweb appearing on the leaves. If you don't take action, the mites will multiply and quickly destroy the plant. To combat them, the Venus flytrap is sprayed with acaricide, usually to completely defeat the pest, systemic treatment will be required in several stages with weekly breaks.
If mealybugs appear on the flower, also feeding on juices, the pests themselves are collected by hand with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, and then the bush is treated with appropriate means.
From stagnant moisture at the roots and high humidity, a sooty fungus can appear on the bushes. Fungicides will help to cope with it. If the Venus flytrap is kept in conditions unusual for it, the bush may be affected by gray rot, also called botrytis. Such plants are covered with gray fluff. At the first signs of the disease, all affected parts of the bush are quickly removed, and then the flower is treated with a fungicide.
The most dangerous infection for the Venus flytrap is considered a bacterial one. It usually occurs due to problems with the digestion of the captured victim. Most often this happens due to attempts to feed the flycatcher with something inappropriate. The affected trap begins to rot and turn black, after which the disease is transmitted to the entire bush. The decaying trap must be cut off faster, the cuts must be powdered with charcoal, and the rest of the plant must be treated with a fungicidal preparation according to the instructions.
If the plant develops too slowly in spring, it is likely that wintering conditions have been violated. If Dionea does not rest at all, you can lose the plant in the second year of cultivation.
The genus of Dionea is considered monotypic: it includes only one species. But breeders based on it were able to obtain many varieties of Venus flytrap, differing in the color of foliage and traps, as well as in their size and features. Among the most common:
author Nadezhda Kolybasova
Dionaea muscipula, also called the Venus flytrap, is the most famous predator plant on the North American continent. It is the only species of its kind.
An adult flycatcher (it catches and assimilates not only flies, but also mosquitoes and other insects) usually does not exceed 15 cm. In spring, the Venus flytrap blooms with white flowers on a long peduncle.
The original habitat of the carnivorous Dionea is peat bogs in Florida, Georgia, North and South Carolina (USA). Venus flycatchers grow in an area called "savannah" - consisting of relief lowland "islets" with an area of 1 to 5 hectares (in their virgin form, no more than fifty have survived).
The Venus flytrap, or Dionaea muscipula, is an interesting plant predator belonging to the Rosyankovye family. It is a small perennial herbaceous insectivorous plant native to the state of North Carolina (USA). Flycatcher Dionea grows on scarce soils, so it has adapted to prey insects to compensate for the lack of nitrogen, phosphorus and other nutrients that are absent in the infertile soil of its habitat.
Venus flytrap forms rosettes of leaves on a short stem around a long peduncle, at the top of which is an inflorescence with several large white flowers. The flycatcher fruit is a capsule with two dozen shiny black seeds. The leaf petiole of the flycatcher is flat and wide, and the leaf blade has turned into two oval valves located at an angle to each other, equipped with long strong teeth along the edges. Sensitive hairs are located on the surface of both halves of the trap leaf, which immediately react to the touch of insects - the flycatcher flaps instantly slam shut, squeezing the victim, the teeth of the leaf go over each other, like the teeth of a zipper, and prevent the insect from getting out. The inner surface of the flycatcher's leaf is equipped with glands with a liquid for digesting insects; the digestion process begins immediately after a successful hunt, when the victim is still alive. After the end of digestion (this takes from one to three weeks, depending on the size of the insect), the flycatcher leaf opens again for new prey after 2-3 digestions, the leaf dies off. If you try to trick the flytrap and touch the leaf hairs with a match, the leaf flaps will slam shut, but the flytrap will immediately unravel the deception - the leaf will not release digestive juice, and its flaps will open again.
The Venus flytrap needs intense lighting and grows well in a humid, cool room with plenty of fresh air. In the summer, it is advisable to take the flycatcher to the garden or to the balcony with access to fresh air and insects, and in winter to keep it at a temperature of 5-10 degrees on the lightest windowsill of the apartment. Since the flycatcher dionea in nature lives in swamps or in places with a high level of groundwater, it is grown in peat and watered only with soft water, watering should be moderate so that the roots can breathe. Every spring, Dionea is transplanted into a shallow pot with a drainage hole. Fertilize the flycatcher sometimes and only in summer - they apply a solution of mineral fertilizers of a very weak concentration when grown without access to insects, you can feed it with specially caught flies and ants. The Venus flytrap reproduces by division during transplantation, by leaf cuttings.
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The Venus flytrap (Dionea) is a predatory plant and can feed on flies, mosquitoes, other insects and even cockroaches (of course, they will not get in there themselves only if the "caring" owners help)!
My first flycatcher appeared 2 years ago (in 2014). I bought it from a young man to whom someone supplied flycatchers from somewhere, for 600 rubles, I learned about him from the Internet. Imagine my surprise when literally 2 months later I saw flycatchers in Auchan and Leroy Merlin for only 150 rubles. In such stores, they looked worse (due to improper care), but the price is 4 times cheaper! Therefore, I purchased 2 more flycatchers.
And I didn't stop there! On sale were nepentes, sundews, sarracenia, which I also later bought. Therefore, I recommend first look at the availability of these plants in hypermarkets and not overpay the people who probably buy them there.
After you have purchased a flycatcher, you need to carefully examine it! All decaying leaves and traps must be cut off! From one leaf, the rest can begin to rot, and if the rot reaches the bulb, the plant will die! If there are midges, then you can pour Aktara (it is better to take a little less than indicated on the package, the product is strong). If there is mold, then it must be removed.
You need to water the flycatcher only in a sump and only with distilled water! I get about 100 ml of water at a time. It is necessary that the earth does not dry out, so I water it almost every day in the summer. Flycatchers are very fond of sunlight, so you need to put on the sunny side! But you cannot turn it, you need to put a mark on the pot for this, then it will always be one side to the sun. By the way, in the sun, the traps begin to turn red and, depending on the species, can acquire very beautiful shades of red.
The Venus flytrap should be replanted once a year or once every two years, depending on the state of the substrate. After purchase in the store, the substrate is naturally in poor condition. The transplant is carried out in May, when there is already enough light for the plant to survive the transplant. I bought in the summer and did not transplant, and my flycatchers survived the winter and the subsequent transplant perfectly well.
Ingredients for the substrate: high moor sour peat (I found it in Leroy Merlin) and perlite (pre-soak in distilled water for a week and change the water at least twice) 2: 1 ratio. Expanded clay cannot be used, and the pot must be small. I transplanted into those in which I bought.
This is how the flycatcher looked after the first wintering! There are no leaves left! Everything that was rotten was cut and covered with charcoal.
When transplanting an adult plant, you may find that the bulb has split, then you can plant them and you will already have 2 plants!
You can also propagate with leaves, but I didn't succeed in this way. Another option with seeds (I haven't tried it, but I'm sure it's easier to buy an adult plant).
The flycatcher begins to bloom in spring, it has a long peduncle.
But it is better to cut it off as soon as you notice it, because the plant spends a lot of energy on flowering and it is very likely that it will die.
You don't need to feed the flycatcher, especially food! She will catch herself someone. After the trap "digests" the prey often begins to rot on its own and has to be cut off. It is also impossible to slam the traps on purpose, it takes a lot of effort and the plant dies.
Venus flytrap definitely needs wintering! In the fall, you need to gradually reduce the air temperature for it (to 5-8 degrees Celsius) and the number of light hours (I just put it on the loggia). After that, she can be put into the refrigerator, there she will have a winter stay, until it becomes 5-8 degrees Celsius again on the loggia. While it is in the refrigerator, you will have to water it about once every three weeks. Remember, the water for irrigation must be the same temperature as the room where the flycatcher is located! Water should be placed in the refrigerator in advance for cooling.
The plant is cool and unusual! It delights me, all my guests and friends, but requires difficult care, distilled water supplies, constant watering, wintering. If you are not afraid of difficulties, then be sure to buy this plant, I am sure it will give you a lot of positive emotions!
Looking to buy a carnivorous houseplant? Get a carnivorous herbaceous flower called Dionea. It belongs to the sundew culture family, consisting of one species. The height of an adult plant is about 15 cm. When Dionea blooms, it throws out a tall white inflorescence of the scutellous type.
Under natural conditions, dionea grows in nitrogen-depleted soil. To replenish this substance, the Venus flytrap catches insects with petal flaps and processes them. The stem, which is underground, grows out of a bulb. The root rosette is 4-7 leaves.
Reddish trap petals up to 15 cm long, they consist of two valves. Sparse bristles are located along the outer edge of the petal. Inside the trap are glands capable of producing nectar. It is designed to attract insects.
The leaflets in the petals close due to sensitive hairs. They react with lightning speed to the slightest movement of any insect and slam shut. Once it is inside the trap, enzyme digestion begins. It lasts about 7-10 days. At the end of the process, the trap opens the leaves again.After eating three insects, the petal dies off.
In order for Dionea to feel good, she needs direct sunlight for at least four hours a day. The rest of the time, she should not be in the shade. So a southern window is suitable for a plant.
In summer, it is advisable to take it out into the open air (garden or balcony) to get the maximum amount of sunlight. At the same time, you should not turn the pot: the Venus flytrap prefers constancy.
For watering, only distilled water is used, which can be purchased at a car store or pharmacy. Rainwater is also suitable, but only if you are sure of its cleanliness.
Watering is done only from the pallet. It is impossible to "water" it from above, otherwise the soil will be compacted, its acidity will decrease, and the roots will be deprived of oxygen. The earth should not dry out, but excess moisture is not encouraged either.
The Venus flytrap is kept in humid cool conditions. If the air temperature exceeds +30 degrees, then the plant may stop growing.
By the winter period, the Venus flytrap stops growing, preparing for a state of rest. Transfer the plant to a dark, cool (+ 2-10 degrees) place. A refrigerator is also suitable for this - its lower compartment. Place the predator there, having previously wrapped it in a plastic bag.
You can also leave the plant for the winter and on the windowsill by moving the pot as close to the glass as possible and shading it with a screen from the warm room air.
The Venus flytrap needs high peat, which is acidic in composition. Therefore, the earthen mixture is independently composed of high moor peat and perlite (2: 1). Before use, perlite is soaked for seven to ten days in water to leach out the remaining mineral salts.
Dionea is transplanted every one to two years in spring or early summer. During the transfer, do not touch the traps, otherwise they will slam shut. Take the plant just above its bulb and deepen it so that the white part is in the ground.
The newly purchased specimens also need a transplant. The Venus flytrap reproduces by seeds, cuttings of leaves, dividing a bush.
To grow a Venus flytrap from seeds, we need: seeds, a gauze napkin, a fungicide solution, distilled water, a bag, high peat, perlite, a pot.
You need to put a bag on the seed pot to keep 100% moisture and put it in a light place. Small shoots will appear in 2-3 weeks.
Mineral formulations are not suitable for fertilization. It is also not worth it to specially feed Dionea with insects. In the season, two or three pieces are enough for her.
However, if there are never insects in the room, you should take care of nutrition: pick up a small live insect.
And remember: the useless slamming of the traps of a plant can destroy it, because it expends a lot of energy in order for the traps to work.
Watch the video of how the Venus flytrap eats:
As you can see, the Venus flytrap - home care does not cause much trouble, since the plant itself is adapted to the harsh conditions of survival in nature.
Therefore, everyone can cope with its cultivation. What do you think about this?
Venus flytrap, or Dionaea (Latin Dionaea sp.) Is the only species of carnivorous plants of the genus Dionaea from the Droseraceae family. Named after Venus, the Roman goddess of love and plants. English Venus's-flytrap, or Venus flytrap, or Venus' flytrap The trap is formed by the edges of the leaf.
It feeds on insects and spiders. It grows in humid temperate regions, including the Atlantic coast of the United States and central Russia. It is a species cultivated in ornamental gardening.
Venus flytrap is a small herb with a rosette of 4-7 leaves that grow from a short underground stem. The stem is a bulbous rhizome. Leaves are three to seven centimeters in size, depending on the season, long trap leaves usually form after flowering.
It grows in nitrogen-deficient soils such as swamps. Lack of nitrogen is the reason for the appearance of traps: insects serve as a source of nitrogen necessary for the synthesis of proteins. The Venus flytrap is a member of a small group of plants capable of fast movement.
The collapse mechanism of the leaf depends on a complex interaction between its elasticity, turgor and growth. In the open state, parts of the leaf are bent outward, in the closed state - inward, forming a cavity, the exit from which is closed by hairs. When these hairs are stimulated, mainly as a result of the movement of calcium ions, an electrical impulse is generated that propagates through the leaf and stimulates the cells in the lobes and in the midline of the leaf. There are two alternative hypotheses for the effect of this impulse. According to one of them, these cells quickly release photons into the cell walls, loosening and causing their rapid swelling by osmosis. According to the second hypothesis, the cells in the inner layers of the lobes and the middle part of the leaf quickly secrete other ions, and water is also released as a result of osmosis, which leads to cell collapse.
If the prey fails to free itself, it continues to stimulate the inner surface of the leaf lobes, causing cell growth. Eventually, the edges of the leaves close together, completely covering the trap and forming a "stomach" in which the digestion process takes place. Digestion is catalyzed by enzymes that are secreted by glands in the lobes. Digestion takes about 10 days, after which only an empty chitinous membrane remains from the prey. After that, the trap opens and is ready to catch the prey. During the life of the trap, three insects on average fall into it.