The old man is in vogue today. Wooden furniture imitated as antiques, paintings with cracked frames, archaic vases, boxes, lamps and street lamps, fences and doors - all this organically fits into the modern design, giving it a unique charm. But it's not cheap. Therefore, lovers of such products will be interested in learning how to age wooden surfaces on their own so as not to pay fabulous sums for rarities or designer items.
Paradoxically, the more technologically advanced a society is, the more it appreciates antique products. It would seem that with the appearance on the market of a huge assortment of innovative building materials with which you can build and decorate your home in an ultra-modern style, many are giving preference to old things.
But in order to become the owner of a truly beautiful, comfortable and cozy home, where the effect of antiquity will be appropriate, you need to think over the architectural style of the building and its design in advance. Agree that in buildings made of glass and concrete in the spirit of high-tech, for example, a dilapidated door with forged elements will look inappropriate.
By the appearance of the front door, you can determine the status, level of well-being and personal preferences of the owners of the house.
Equally, as in Constructivism, Cubism, Minimalism, Ecodesign or Wright's style, which are based on clear lines and deny any manifestations of pretentiousness inherent in the past.
Wright's (prairie) style is easily recognizable by its well-defined lines, flat or hipped roofs with wide eaves and maximum integration of houses into the surrounding landscape
Artificially aged wooden gizmos will look amazing, emphasizing the taste and status of the owners, in such directions as:
The planning and design of compact houses in the German style are distinguished by rationality, practicality, and economy.
Houses in a gloomy solemn Gothic style are characterized by rich semi-antique facade decoration with the use of carved details - archivolts, vimpergs, tympanum
Decorating houses in the country style corresponds to the national style, but without pretentiousness - only laconic and simple wooden elements, preferably with an antiquity effect
Alpine style - good quality, convenience and functionality with the obligatory wood paneling, which not only keeps warm, but gives the house sophistication and picturesque
To create an interior in the spirit of a Russian estate, you need to choose wooden doors and furniture from uneven, roughly processed, partially or completely aged material
Oddly enough, aged wooden objects perfectly fit the industrial-urban loft style that arose in the 40s of the last century in the factory districts of Manhattan.
Thanks to the wooden design elements, the trendy industrial style of the loft does not seem lifeless and gray, but on the contrary - cozy and stylish
The main idea of the style is a lot of light and space, creativity and minimalism. And also a combination of various architectural ideas, including elements of antiquity - exposed beams, pipes, ventilation and electrical wiring, frayed brick walls and wooden furniture, peeling doors and cracked window frames look completely natural next to the latest technology, mirrors, posters and chrome interior items.
If initially loft-style premises were rough and sometimes brutal, then recently such living rooms have become more and more sophisticated and fashionable.
Although this trendy trend is considered bohemian and the most expensive, it is still possible to bring the characteristic elements of such an attic style to any room without special costs. Perhaps this is due to the existence of techniques for aging materials.
Artificial aging of wood helps to turn faceless interior items (furniture, windows, doors, beams, openings, etc.) into chic rarities with which you can create a particular style. Thanks to a variety of different technologies, you can bring enchanting antiquity motifs to the exterior or interior of your home.
Antique entrance doors and furniture will attract the eye and indicate the uncommon style of the house or apartment.
But before using any aging technique, you need to prepare the wooden surface for further work. If the door leaf will be processed, then you should:
Old paint can be easily removed with a hot air gun or blowtorch... After warming up, it is removed with a spatula, the cracks are primed, and the surface is cleaned with a fine emery cloth. Sometimes the paint is not completely removed, leaving a kind of stains, due to which the aging effect becomes more pronounced.
An inexpensive and affordable thermal method for removing old paint is that the surface is heated with a building hairdryer, and then the layer of paintwork is removed with a spatula.
Another way to remove old paint is mechanical. It consists in sanding and scraping the coating by hand or with a machine. This method is laborious, but the result is excellent.
The mechanical method involves removing old paint using physical force, where the choice of tools depends on the material of the working surface and the quality of the coating
You can use all kinds of removers to remove paint. They can be either special (white spirit) or alternative home remedies (caustic soda solution). But with them, the surface does not turn out to be as flawless as after heat treatment with a lamp or hairdryer. In addition, this process is more expensive and much slower, which is why washes are used in small areas or where heating is impossible, in particular, when aging fixed door slopes, near which there is a stucco molding.
The chemical method of removing paint has many drawbacks, for example, toxicity, a persistent pungent odor, the possibility of burns if it comes into contact with the skin, and also the fact that the use of a remover does not guarantee perfect removal of a multi-layer coating
To remove several layers of paint, use a special reagent made of soda and oat flour. To prepare it:
The consistency of the soda solution depends on the thickness of the paint to be removed.
You can apply a mixture of baking soda and oatmeal with a brush or sponge.
After processing the product with soda, the paint can be easily removed with a spatula
If necessary, wood products can be stained or lightened
Working with chemical compounds must be extremely careful to prevent skin burns. The use of protective equipment such as gloves and a respirator is recommended.
The varnish surface needs more thorough preparation. It is made completely smooth to prevent the new coating from puffing up. For this:
Hand sanding wood preserves its texture
Sometimes for the restoration of doors it is required to remove the old varnish from their surface. There is nothing difficult in this, if you adhere to the following scheme:
Wood putty can be matched to the color of the material
To prepare wooden surfaces for aging you will need:
The construction hair dryer produces very high temperature air
Caustic soda is a great way to remove old paint from wood surfaces.
The methods of artificial aging of wood make it possible to obtain an original finishing material that retains its strength characteristics, has incomparable beauty, and is also inexpensive and practical. At the same time, you do not need to be a cabinetmaker or artist to change household items beyond recognition.
Artificially aged wooden objects can change and decorate any interior beyond recognition
There are no identical wooden products, since the texture of this material was created by nature itself, and it is impossible to artificially make a complete copy of it. This is the value of aged items.
Even with the same processing method, it will not work to make objects identical in relief and color, since the texture of the wood is created by nature itself
The chemical method for aging wood is to apply ammonia, alkaline compounds (for example, kitchen stove cleaner) or copper sulphate to the work surface:
The wire brush can be of different hardness
The chemical method of aging is harmful to humans, so you need to work outdoors in compliance with safety measures.
Hardwood lends itself well to chemical aging
Deciduous wood species - ash, oak, poplar, beech, cherry, maple, containing tannins can be exposed to chemical attack. Chemicals reacting with them cause darkening and a rich appearance of the woody pattern.
To achieve the relief and dark color of coniferous wood, they use the method of thermal aging - firing with a blowtorch or gas torch. The depth of exposure is determined according to personal preference - with a shallow depth, aging will be insignificant, with a deeper firing, the aging effect will be more pronounced.
The firing process takes place in the following sequence:
The duration of the wood firing depends on the desired result.
After heat treatment, it is advisable to cover the wood with wax or oils, due to which the material acquires the most incredible shades without disturbing the textured pattern.
Under natural conditions, the tree ages slowly. But the great demand for antiques helped to develop and introduce special technologies for decorative aging of wood, thanks to which elite household items are created - from simple shelves to furniture sets.
Brushing - removing the top wood fibers with a metal brush. This technology opens up wide possibilities for changing the pattern and color of different types of wood, except for maple, cherry, alder, beech and pear. Using dyes (black, orange, green, red and purple) you can get the most incredible woody shades, make a stylization of exotic species out of ordinary woods.
Brushing allows you to emphasize the naturalness of wooden products, which gives additional aesthetic pleasure when using them
The tree is brushed in the following order:
Using a grinder or a drill with special attachments makes the brushing process much easier and faster.
Patination is a method of aging wood, which is distinguished by its simplicity of execution and radically changes the look of "dull" products:
Patina is a substance that is released under the influence of oxygen
Patination allows you to imitate natural patina at no special cost, which significantly improves the appearance of wooden products, gives them solidity and chic
It is very important that before blackening the solid is defatted, cleaned and sanded along the grain. After that, it is advisable to walk manually with sandpaper over the entire wooden surface in order to smooth out the remaining small scratches. For staining, water-based compounds are most often used, which have good impregnation properties and fluidity, but dry for a long time. However, this disadvantage is compensated by the fact that, penetrating into the pores, they raise wood fibers, therefore, they form a more relief structure.
Each type of wood will absorb the staining solution differently, so first you need to make a test coat on a board of similar material to determine the number of layers to achieve the desired effect.
A trial blackening of a board of the same breed as the main product will help to determine the number of layers of stain
Apply the stain in 2-3 passes abundantly and quickly with a sponge or brush. Wipe the surface still damp with a dry soft cloth, which will help to evenly distribute the color and remove excess impregnation.
Apply the stain on the wood quickly and abundantly, and then wipe the still wet product with a dry cloth to evenly distribute the composition over the entire surface
After each layer has dried, the surface is sanded by passing a coarse hard cloth along the fibers and diagonally. Then the soaked wood is varnished or coated with oil or wax.
The main advantage of wood stain is that, by changing the color of the wood, it retains and emphasizes its texture.
Most of all, the noble spirit of antiquity is created by abrasions that can be done with your own hands using paint, wax or paraffin:
To restore a wooden door and give it an abrasion effect, you can use colored wax, which is pressed into the wood and rubbed in certain areas.
Craquelure (crackle) - cracks on a layer of varnish or paint, with which you can artificially age any surface.
Craquelure paints create the effect of cracks on the wooden surface, through which the base shines through
Means for creating craquelure by the method of application are one- and two-component. The former are suitable for simple work at home, while the latter are used by craftsmen to create rarities and restore masterpieces of the past.
An original and cost-effective design can be achieved with ease with the one-component tint craquelure
To create craquelure, the work surface must be very well prepared, otherwise it will not work to achieve the desired result. Two contrasting colors are selected. Which color to apply first - dark or light - does not matter, since light looks equally beautiful on a dark background and vice versa.
It is advisable to select colors so that they are visibly different, otherwise the difference will be hardly noticeable on a wooden product. The aging process itself is performed as follows:
Craquelure is best applied with a brush
You need to apply craquelure dye in two layers
Depending on the desired result, you can use several layers of paint of various shades, while the craquelure is able to penetrate everything and create a peculiar and unusual pattern
Craquelure using a two-component composition looks like an old cracked varnish on the surface of an image.
The advantage of a two-component craquelure is that a layer of varnish with cracks can be created over any decor - decoupage or painting
The application of the two-component technology is as follows:
In this case, you need to follow some rules:
Old wood is rich in history, which is why it is so valuable. Thanks to the technologies of artificial aging, every home craftsman will be able to give a second life to an old wooden door or furniture. And there is no more exciting and enjoyable activity than doing everything with your own hands and receiving truly exclusive products that will fill your heart with pride and your home with coziness.
DIY facade painting: photo video instruction. For those who need, but do not know how to paint the facade of a house with their own hands, you need to know some points before starting painting.
You should not skimp on quality and buy cheaper paint, it will not last long, and you will do double and extra work.
You should not purchase types of paints that indicate that they are intended for indoor and outdoor use, they are not as durable as intended only for outdoor use.
1. Before installing the sliding door frame, dismantle the old door frame. The opening is significantly widened to the left and upward, having disassembled part of the brickwork.
2. To align the victim during the repair of a fragment of the floor, assembly glue is applied to the place of the demolished section of the wall.
3. A three-layer wood board with a thickness of 19 mm is laid on it and fixed until the adhesive composition is completely dry.
4. The flooring forming the door sill is shortened from the side of the kitchen, after which ...
5-6…. a threshold 22 mm thick made of smooth-planed larch is glued. For greater adhesion between the floor and the new threshold, lamella plates are pre-laid.
7. U-shaped door jambs (22 mm thick) are fixed to the wall with mounting glue.
8. A thicker layer of glue than usual will provide a firm vertical hold on the jamb.
9. Before finishing the walls, the joints between the frame and the wall are filled with acrylic sealant.
10. View of the doorway after installing a wooden frame and installing a wood-burning stove.
11. Before hanging the door leaf to the ceiling beam, attach the aluminum profile, which will take the load of the glass door.
12. Assistants will not interfere with carrying the 90-kg glass.
13-14. The metal rail will frame the edge of the glass and must be positioned with a precise offset. They fix it ...
15.… with special metal hexagon screws.
16-17. At the bottom of the door jamb, a small groove is selected using a chisel, so that the floor rail can be installed as close to the frame as possible.
18. A rail adjusted to the thickness of the glass is inserted into the groove obtained.
19. A minimum of two people are required to install the glass sliding door.
20. When opening a sliding door, its leaf should go behind the cabinet, which is pushed forward a little.
21. Then, with the help of bolts, the front cornice for the rail is fixed
22. For the best movement of the sliding door, it is necessary to adjust its parts located on the floor.
23. Then set the limiter to stop the door in the end position
24-25. The top rail must be adjusted so that the door stops gently on the right and left.
26. Handles are glued into the holes pre-drilled in the glass.
When it comes to installing gates in the country or in a suburban area, it is worth deciding first of all what they will be, because it is the gate that catches your eye first. It is with them that the guests begin their acquaintance with home ownership, so you should take their construction seriously enough. It must be said right away that this task can be accomplished in different ways and from different materials. The choice must be made based on personal ideas about the beautiful, but at the same time, hardly anyone will argue that in the presence of a wooden fence, the gate should be made of wood.
Before you make a wooden gate or a gate with your own hands, you need to decide on their size and intended appearance, for which it would be quite advisable to complete a drawing and calculations of the amount of necessary materials. After that, you can start performing the main construction work.
First you need to install pillars supporting the entire structure of the gate. For wooden gates and wickets, wooden posts are best. With regard to the material suitable for the material of the posts, oak should be chosen. Its strength characteristics are quite consistent with the required ones.
The entire post, and most importantly that part of it that will be underground, must be treated with special compounds that will prevent the negative effects of moisture.
After the pillars are prepared, they must be dug in. To do this, in predetermined places, you need to dig two holes about a meter deep.
At the bottom of each of them sand and crushed stone are poured in two layers as a protective cushion. The layers need to be tamped down for the best effect. After that, pillars are installed in the pits, the verticality of their installation must be checked using a building level, and it is better to use a water level. To achieve the greatest strength of the installation, the space that forms between the post and the walls of the pit should be filled with rubble. In order to save money, you can use chipped bricks. After filling half of the space, the crushed stone must be tamped, after which it must be poured again and tamped again, this must be done until the entire pit is filled.
From above, the crushed stone is cemented for greater strength. In principle, a cement-sand mixture can be used to fill the entire space, but this will entail additional material costs.
While the concrete is hardening, it is necessary, without wasting time, to move on to the manufacture of the gate frames themselves. First you need to build a kind of frame frame with your own hands. For these purposes, a wooden bar is suitable. If we consider the process in somewhat more detail, then it is necessary to assemble a rectangular frame of a pre-calculated size. It should be remembered that the frame should be smaller than the finished gate.
So, the individual parts of the frame are fastened together with self-tapping screws. Depending on the size of the wooden gate, the frame can be additionally reinforced with both transverse beams and diagonally fixed beams. As soon as the frame is ready, it is taken away with boards, either with a solid wall, or decorative slits are left, depending on the general style. When the gate leaves are ready, they need to be fixed on the posts. Suspension loops are usually used for these purposes. Usually, one part of them is attached to the post, and the second to the gate alignment. Given the material of manufacture, two attachment points are enough - above and below.
As the final stage in the construction of wooden gates in the country, you can designate the mounting of handles and all kinds of latches and bolts. These actions are necessary not only to avoid spontaneous opening, but also due to the fact that the gate must perform not only decorative functions, but also protective functions. If we talk about how expedient it will be to build a wooden version of the gate, then it must be said that such gates are quite practical and capable of performing their functions for at least ten years. Of course, for this, the tree must be prepared, that is, treated with special compounds that prevent the appearance of both rotting and wood pests. And also for greater aesthetics, wooden gates can be coated with a special varnish.
In conclusion, we can say that if you need not only to build practical and quite aesthetically attractive gates, but also to make them yourself, while not spending much, then a wooden gate is the most suitable option. With proper installation, such gates can serve faithfully for many years and be at the same time a source of pride for the owner and the envy of neighbors. And usually, the more pride that either causes from the owners, the more envy it causes among the neighbors, but that's another story.
We bring to your attention a few more wooden gates for inspiration.
Our regular author Anatoly Matveichuk sent a fresh work - a bookcase made of simple materials.In this he was helped by a home lathe.
The memory of distant childhood haunts. Everything was simple: a wooden house, an armored bed, a chiseled bookcase with books.
I made up my mind and bought a lathe for wood. And so, on the first snow in November, I bought a sheet of birch 12 mm plywood and four birch cuttings with a diameter of 40 mm.
From plywood, I cut four shelves with holes for assembly pins and for wall rods. Cleaned all edges and surfaces.
1. From the cuttings I cut the measured blanks into balusters, the tops and legs of the whatnot.
02 I had to do my invented work with zero experience. Sharpened old files and a fragment of a threading tap were useful as cutters.
Drawings drawn in advance helped a lot.
For precise trimming of the turned parts along the length, I used a metal file - it turns out quickly and economically. After removing the part from the machine, I cut off the tails of the workpiece with the same metal file.
3.To drill the holes for the assembly pins, we had to make a jig from a birch bar. With a 0 30 mm perforated drill, I went 5 mm into the block, then I drilled a central through hole 01 * mm.
4 and 5. All finished parts sanded with zero and free from wood dust were painted with mocha tone alcohol stain.
6. Assembling with PVA-M glue took place in the following order: legs to the shelf, all balusters to the intermediate shelves of the top to the upper shelf, three wall rods fastened to the nails along the lower shelf.
I installed the assembled bookcase on a flat surface, finally tapped it with a mallet on the chiseled tops and put a small load on the upper shelf.
The next day after the glue dries, I advise you to take a piece of thick cotton cloth and finish dry polishing the finished peasant shelf.
1. After cutting, the edges of the parts are ground. For the convenience of working with a grinder, the parts are clamped on a workbench in an upright position.
2. Using a hand-held milling machine, shape the front edges of the sidewalls and shelves.
3. Holes for dowels in the end edges of the parts are drilled using a special jig or stand for an electric drill.
4. The thin guide rail makes gluing the tiles much easier. temporarily nailed to the wall with small studs.
5. Having removed the guide rail, frame the glued tiles with decorative layouts, cut down on the mustache.
6. Having glued wooden dowels into the holes in the edges, the shelves are assembled into a single structure together with the decorative wall on which the tiles are glued.
7. Before assembling the shelves, glue the blind holes in the sidewalls with glue and insert round wooden dowels into them.
8. During assembly, all shelves are installed on the corresponding dowels of one sidewall, and then the second sidewall is attached and tightened with clamps. Q Boxes are assembled by hammering small nails into the pilot holes. The facade is attached to the front wall of the box with screws.