Collar begonia - reproduction, cultivation and care

Have you decided to start floriculture and don't know where to start? Then you need to pay attention to collar begonia, which, for all its high decorativeness, does not require complex care.

Royal offspring

Begonias, like most houseplants, came to us from tropical and subtropical climates. Various varieties and species have taken root on our windowsills, settled in home greenhouses, became a living decoration of many public places and work offices.

And in this huge family, perhaps the most popular and widespread can be considered the collar begonia. This species, bred from royal begonia, received large, succulent leaves on thick and tall petioles. Thanks to this, the plant came out quite tall, up to 80 cm, and quite spreading.

It looks great as an independent plant - on wide window sills, in hanging pots or outdoor flowerpots.

High decorativeness, and at the same time unpretentiousness and easy maintenance, made begonia a popular indoor plant at home. It looks great as an independent plant - on wide window sills, in hanging pots or outdoor flowerpots. And at the same time, its traditional green color harmoniously fits into many floral arrangements - as a background for bright plants or to contrast with other forms of leaves.

If you are interested in collar begonia in its decorativeness, and liked the simple care of it, then you can get yourself this indoor flower without much difficulty and with minimal cash costs.

Reproduction and cultivation

The finished plant can be bought in specialized stores or from private sellers in the market. But it is much more interesting to grow begonia on your own, at home, especially since this is a rather effective task that even a beginner, inexperienced florist can perform.

The finished plant can be bought in specialized stores or from private sellers in the market.

Cuff begonia propagates by division, stem stalks and leaves. Good survival rate, fast rooting and care makes it possible to get many new, independent plants even with a minimum amount of planting material.

  • Petiole rooting

The stem obtained from the mother plant is shortened to 7-10 cm in height and the leaf is cut off, leaving only a third to reduce moisture evaporation. After that, the petiole is placed in a transparent container with water and left on the windowsill until the roots appear. From time to time, you need to top up the water, I emphasize, just top up, not change, in order to maintain its favorable microclimate and bacterial composition.

Alternatively, the stem of the begonia can be planted in a loose sand-soil mixture and covered with a transparent jar to create "greenhouse" conditions. But it is important not to forget about the presence of a drainage hole in the bottom of the tank. The fact is that with this method of rooting, ordinary watering is undesirable, since the developing root system cannot quickly absorb water, and the moisture that remains on the soil surface can provoke the development of fungal diseases, from which in most cases the cutting dies. And if you pour it into a pan, the water will flow directly to the roots without negatively affecting the stem.

The bottom heating of the container will help speed up the rooting process, for example, at home it can be organized by placing a container of water or a pot on a radiator or heating pipe.

Several young seedlings can be obtained from one petiole at once. To do this, the stem is cut into pieces of 2-3 cm long, placed in a bowl filled with water or a sand-soil mixture, and everything is placed in a plastic bag. Care consists in the fact that from time to time you need to inspect the "hotbed", ventilate and take out the pieces that have already sprouted and are ready for further rooting.

The propagation of begonias by leaves takes place in a similar way. Before placing the leaf on a wet substrate, it is slightly incised at the branching points of large veins. It is here that, some time later, tender roots will appear, and then the first leaves of young plants. For a better fit of the sheet, it is pressed in several places with small pebbles and everything is also placed in a mini-greenhouse.

In the future, when growing at home, it is important to provide regular care: lighting, watering and airing. The emerging young plants, the leaves of which have already reached 3-5 cm, are carefully cut out of the mother leaf, trying not to tear it off the surface, so as not to disturb the delicate roots of neighboring rosettes. Thus, up to 50 new plants can be obtained from one leaf of an adult collar begonia.

Video about begonias - reproduction and cultivation. G. Shipilova.

Another very important point! Many growers make an unforgivable mistake - when planting young rosettes in the soil, they break off the uterine stalk or break off the remains of a leaf. In no case should this be done! Thus, it is possible to deprive the new plant of nutrients, because its not yet formed root system cannot provide them with their supply from the soil.

Advice! For better and faster survival of young begonias, it is recommended to cover the container with a glass jar, creating at home such a "greenhouse" with a favorable microclimate.

  • Rhizome division

This method of breeding begonias is perhaps the most productive and least laborious. During the transplantation of the bushes, a part is separated from the rhizome and deposited in a separate container. It is recommended to sprinkle the resulting wounds on the roots with crushed charcoal to protect them from infections and decay. Also, when dividing the bush, you need to try to leave leaves on both the mother and the new plant, otherwise the process of restoration and rooting may be delayed, or even lead to death.

Conditions of detention and care

One collar begonia plant at home can live over ten years. But so that it does not lose its decorative effect and pleases with flowering, you need to follow a number of simple rules and provide proper care:

  • transplanting in spring every two to three years, and for old plants, annual replacement of the top layer of the earth is permissible;
  • watering on hot summer days should be plentiful, and in the autumn-winter period with short daylight hours and cool temperatures - minimal;
  • humidification of the surrounding air (you can spray it lightly so that only mist without large drops remains on the leaves, or place a container with water next to it).

The most suitable soil for begonias is a mixture: 3 parts of leaf and part of sod land, peat, sand and humus. The selected composition of the soil is balanced to simplify the further care of the developing plant.

The temperature regime is quite simple to maintain, since begonia feels great at temperatures from 18 to 25 ºС, that is, usual at home. In the summer, it is useful to take the flowerpot with the plant out into the fresh air - to the loggia or to the yard, providing them with light partial shade so that direct sunlight does not leave burns on the leaves. In winter, begonia loves coolness around 15-17 ºС, and in apartments, where it is rather stuffy and dry at this time, such a regime can be provided at the balcony door or by the window, but away from the radiator.

Begonia video - types, care, transplant

As for watering, like all tropical plants, begonias love moist air more than wet soil. Therefore, it is better to dry out the earthen lump, sometimes forgetting about watering, than to make a "swamp", risking ruining the plant.

Caring for indoor flowers also includes feeding. For begonias at home, special complete concentrates or universal mineral fertilizers are used, which can be purchased at the store. Good results are obtained by adding organic matter to the water for irrigation (fermented mullein or bird droppings in small doses, infusions of herbs, wood ash, eggshells). But to use such funds because of their unpleasant aroma, it is more logical in the summer, when the plants are outdoors.

Royal begonia varieties: Rex, Metalic, Griffin, Bolivian and others

There are many varieties of royal begonia, but varieties that are easy to grow in our climatic zone and have a spectacular appearance are very popular among them. In our article, we will introduce you to the most popular of the royal begonia varieties, as well as tell you about some of the nuances of growing them.

Variety of types of begonias

The genus of begonia has about two thousand varieties, about half of them are suitable for indoor gardening. They can be conditionally divided into 3 large groups, begonias:

  • tuberous
  • thickened stem
  • bush or with a common rhizome.

Tuberous begonias have arisen from the crossing of several species that grow favorably in South America. In warm countries, in open ground, in the rest - in a bright, warm room, such begonia is grown as a perennial crop.

Peeled begonia tubers. In its upper part there are dormant buds, traces of stems, and in the lower part there is a root system. The leaves of this ornamental plant are asymmetric, large, fleshy stems. Flowers can be of three types:

  • semi-double
  • terry
  • non-double.

Tuberous begonia blooms for a long time - from May to October.

There are three groups of tuberous begonias:

  • small-flowered
  • with hanging stems
  • large-flowered.

Small-flowered begonias grow up to 15–20 cm. On thin, highly branched stems there are beautiful showy leaves. The plants are covered with flowers, the diameter of which reaches 5 cm. The color range of this type of begonias: yellow, white, pink, red.

Begonia with hanging stems looks amazing in hanging pots. Its stems grow up to 40 centimeters, they are covered with large double flowers, the diameter of which reaches 15 centimeters, and the color range is also diverse - from white to deep red.

Tuberous large-flowered begonias grow up to 20 cm in height, the diameter of their flowers is 15 cm, and can reach twenty centimeters. Flowers are double or non-double, yellow, pink, orange, white, red.

Description of bougainvillea

Bougainvillea belongs to the family of Nicholas or Niktaginovs.

The plant is a flowering shrub or tree with liana-like branches. Thanks to flexible shoots and thorns, it grabs the support and stretches up.

Leaves are green or light green, sometimes variegated. The leaves have smooth, smooth edges. At the end, the leaves are pointed. The size of the ovoid leaves is small.

The flowers are white-yellow, inconspicuous, they quickly fall off. Bracts of unforgettable beauty, which come in different colors: purple. crimson, pink, white, cream, red.

Among the domestic ones, there are also two-colored plants.

Their form is also striking in its originality. It is triangular, heart-shaped, round, arrow-shaped. If you touch the bracts to the touch, they look like the finest paper.

Bougainvillea decorates gardens, parks, facades of houses in cities with a subtropical climate, where winters are mild and the temperature does not drop below +5. It is used in landscape design.

The plant can be a decoration of the house, and in the summertime, bougainvillea tubs are taken out to the site. You can dig it to the garden bed so that it seems that it is growing directly in the open field.

Only in this case will the flowering period be shortened. The plant can be in the form of a shrub, liana or bonsai tree, depending on the pruning.

Homemade bougainvillea varieties

There are 14 types of bougainvillea. Most of them have thorny thorns, but recently developed varieties do not.

Based on three natural plant species: naked bougainvillea (smooth), wonderful bougainvillea (beautiful), and Peruvian bougainvillea, miniature hybrids have been bred. These plants successfully interbreed with each other, forming spectacular varieties.

Bougainvillea nude.

It is a tall shrub 5 m high with lilac, yellow, red, pink, white bracts, pointed glossy dark green leaves and small thorns.

She easily tolerates pruning, allowing growers to shape plants in any shape. In Latin, it is designated as Bougainvillea glabra.

Described by the Swiss botanist Jacques Denis Choisy in 1850. The leaves are 10-15 cm long and 4-6 cm wide. It grows in nature in dry places in Brazil on rocky hills with calcareous soils.

Bougainvillea lovely (wonderful) is grown like a liana.

In Latin it is called Bougainvillea spectabilis. She can reach a height of 15 m, she has red, pink, purple bracts, but they are larger.

With the help of flexible shoots and numerous thorns, it clings to the support and stretches upward, wrapping around the facades of houses and gazebos. The leaves are pubescent, dense, cordate.

Panicle-shaped inflorescences bloom from April to October. Bracts turn pale as they bloom. The rainforest of Brazil is her homeland. Grows on open rocky slopes.

Bougainvillea peruvian (Bougainvillea peruviana).

It was discovered in 1810 by the German naturalist Humboldt. This is a climbing shrub. The flowers are yellow, surrounded by rounded pink and purple bracts. Leaves are ovoid, thin, not pubescent. The thorns are short, straight.

This variety does not branch. Long shoots do not produce lateral shoots. The variety requires pruning to give the plant a splendor. It is a more stable variety.

Bougainvillea Peruvian blooms several times a year, especially if there are dry periods between flowering. Distributed in Colombia and Peru. The bracts are pink, double, and have a wrinkled surface.

The breeders cultivated these 3 species and developed new miniature varieties. The best ones are:

"Australian Gold" - Terry bracts are bright orange in color, later turn pale and turn pink. The leaves are large, oval-shaped, light green, sometimes burgundy spots are visible on them. It is a shrub.

"Double Lilarose" characterized by abundant flowering, double lilac-pink bracts emphasize the showiness of the plant.

"Beggum Sikkander" - a beautiful indoor flower with light green leaves and variegated bracts. The blooming bougainvillea of ​​this variety is delightful. Luxurious double-colored bracts make the plant fabulous, magical. A widespread variety with white bracts and purple edging.

"White Cascade" differs in ivory bracts. Some plants of this variety have pink edging on the bracts, which gives the plant an elegance. The leaves are large, dark green.

"Double Red" has a beautiful raspberry-fuchsia color, which does not fade, but remains throughout the entire flowering period. Refers to terry varieties.

Bougainvillea California Gold - golden bracts turn beige at the end of flowering. Sometimes, developing at home, the plant confuses the rest time: it blooms not in summer, but in winter.

Features of growing bougainvillea

Bougainvillea is a beautiful houseplant that sometimes grows to a large size. In apartments, it can be rarely found, because flower growers are afraid of difficult caring for it, but growing a plant is not so difficult.We will tell you about the features of caring for him.

In an apartment, the plant should be kept on the south or southwest side. The flower requires a lot of bright light, is not afraid of direct sunlight, it should not be shaded, only in rare cases.

The plant needs additional lighting. On the north side, where there is little light, and in a dark room, home bougainvillea will not survive.

In winter, like other tropical plants, bougainvillea has a dormant period during which it should be watered once a month, but the root system should not be allowed to dry out. The temperature at which the plant should be stored is + 8 + 15 degrees, not higher.

In winter, it is necessary to ensure that the roots do not overcool. Indoor bougainvillea should stand in a semi-shaded place.

With the end of the dormant period, the plant must immediately be moved to where there is a lot of light. It is better that bougainvillea grows in a greenhouse or insulated loggia.

In summer, bougainvillea can be taken outside, but the place should be calm, and the temperature in the room should be + 22 + 25 degrees. The plant is afraid of drafts, even a little airing can destroy it.

Bougainvillea is a moisture-loving plant. It needs to be watered frequently and sprayed every day. To achieve abundant flowering, the plant needs to be fed with fertilizers for flowering or complex fertilization 2 times a week.

Problems when growing bougainvillea at home

If you take care of the flower incorrectly, then problems may appear that spoil the appearance of the plant when growing it.

  1. Cessation of growth. If the roots do not have enough space in a cramped pot, then the growth of bougainvillea slows down or stops. In this case, you need to transplant the plant into a larger pot, but only a few centimeters larger than the previous one.
  2. Young leaves are small. To keep the leaves growing, add top dressing.
  3. The leaves turned yellow. Yellowness can appear from excessive watering. Clods of earth do not have time to dry out. Stagnation of moisture disrupts the metabolic processes of the plant, as a result of which the leaves turn yellow and wither.
  4. The flower sheds leaves, bracts.
  5. Bougainvillea does not bloom.

Why does bougainvillea shed its leaves?

There are several reasons for the plant dropping leaves:

  • indoor plants do not like rearrangements, change of residence. Buying a flowering, green plant, you are saddened to find that at home it has shed its leaves and bracts. Dont be upset. This is the plant's reaction to moving. If you follow the rules for caring for the plant, then the flower will soon thank you with abundant flowering and green leaves that appear.
  • The same problem appears if you move a plant from open air to an apartment, move it from one window to another. Sometimes it is only necessary to slightly turn the bougainvillea, moving it from its place, as it loses leaves and bracts. Therefore, be careful and attentive, do not make mistakes when growing bougainvillea.
  • change of air temperature in accordance with the season
  • the presence of a draft. The wind that blows on the plant in the garden and on the balcony has a negative effect on it. Bougainvillea may end up at an open window or transom when airing. It does not tolerate the movement of cold air masses, therefore, it is freed from foliage.
  • dry air. Bougainvillea is negatively affected by hot air coming from heating radiators. The plant needs to be sprayed regularly and kept away from batteries
  • sudden changes in temperature. In August and September, being on a balcony or plot, bougainvillea can freeze from temperatures below +5 degrees. The plant will then lose not only foliage, bracts, but also young shoots
  • violation of the irrigation regime.

An excess of moisture and its lack destroys the plant. It reacts to improper watering in its own way: when it dries, it drops the leaves green, when the water stagnates, they first turn yellow, and then fall off along with the bracts. The plant, as it were, warns the grower about mistakes in caring for him.

Why bougainvillea doesn't bloom

Due to improper care, flowering problems can occur. Let's find out the reasons why bougainvillea does not bloom.

  1. The pot does not fit. Sometimes beginners in growing indoor plants think that planting a plant in a pot for growth is better: you do not need to repot it often, and there is a lot of room for the roots to grow and develop. In a pot that is too spacious, water stagnates, mold appears, as a result of which the plant refuses to bloom.
  2. Lack of a dormant period in winter. If the temperature of the room where bougainvillea grows is above +15 degrees, then it can bloom in winter. And in spring, the flower reluctantly lays buds, blooms poorly or does not bloom at all.
  3. Lack of light.
  4. Cool rainy weather during the summer.

Sometimes the reason for the lack of flowering remains undisclosed. You can push the plant to bloom. He needs to arrange a kind of diet.

Within 2-4 weeks, stop feeding and limit watering. Water the plant only when the topsoil dries out. As soon as you see flower buds at the ends on young shoots, it means that bougainvillea is ready to bloom. It is necessary to resume feeding and watering.

Diseases and pests

In nature, bougainvillea resists harmful insects, but at home, spider mites, felt insects and aphids can appear on it. Every day, you should inspect the leaves, flowers and get rid of pests.

Against spider mites use potent drugs "Akarin", "Kleschevit", "Aktara", and against aphids and felt insecticides "Fufanon", "Karbofos", "Biotlin."

If pests have just appeared or there are few of them, you can use folk remedies: decoction of onion husks, potato tops, strong garlic solution, laundry soap.

To get rid of mealybugs, you need to wipe the leaves and stems of the plant with a cotton swab dipped in an alcohol solution.

Aphids are afraid of antiparasitic soap for pets, the solution of which should be treated with the plant. When applying insecticides, cover the ground with a plastic bag to prevent droplets from getting inside the pot.

Bougainvillea transplant

Young plants need to be replanted every year because the roots grow and there is little room for development. An adult plant should be replanted after 2-3 years.

Each next pot should be 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. It is not recommended to take a pot that is too spacious, because water will accumulate in it, which will negatively affect its life processes.

The pot must be taken deep. The plant loves heavy soil, so it is better to prepare a nutrient mixture of 2 parts of leafy soil, 2 parts of turf, 1 part of humus, 1 part of sand. Remember to put in a good drain to drain the water out of the pot successfully.

Indoor plant pruning

Bougainvillea has flexible young shoots that can be shaped into any shape. A sphere, a pyramid, a wreath looks beautiful. The main thing is to put the supports correctly. Over time, young shoots grow stiff.

Bougainvillea blooms very luxuriantly in summer. You can achieve multi-colored flowering. To do this, it is not necessary to graft varieties, you just need to plant plants of different varieties and colors in a pot, and all summer you will be pleased with a crown of bracts of various shades.

For young stems, you need to make a support and intertwine them as needed to form a tree trunk. In the early stages of plant formation, you do not need to cut the stems.

Trim the stems as they grow. In spring, pruning is necessary to create a bush shape and active flowering. Cut last year's stems in half to allow lateral young shoots to develop.

Watering must be carefully monitored to prevent waterlogging and drying out of the soil. In summer, water with warm water, and immediately pour out the water that has seeped from the pot into the pan.


The houseplant reproduces in both spring and summer, as well as autumn. Experienced growers use semi-lignified cuttings left after pruning for planting.

Special cutting of the plant into cuttings is possible. Plant them in the soil, pre-treated with phytohormones that stimulate root formation for fast rooting of cuttings.

The soil temperature must be at least +25 degrees, so bottom heating is used. Cover the pot with glass, spray regularly, ventilate and water in moderation.

Propagated by bougainvillea and air layers. For this, a flexible layering is selected, which has not yet been stiffened. Cuts are made on it. The incision is bent down and secured with a hairpin to the ground.

When it gives rise to the root system, then it can be transplanted into a separate pot.

In order for the cuttings to take root faster, put them in warm water for 3 hours, and then hold them in a stimulant or dip them in heteroauxin or Kornevin powder. The soil should be taken lighter than for an adult plant, replacing humus with peat.

Today we told you about the rules of caring for bougainvillea, the problems associated with growing a plant, and revealed the causes of these problems.

We advised you how to propagate bougainvillea, we told you why a flower needs pruning.

If you are interested in a flower, you can go to the bougainvillea forum, where growers talk about their pets and the rules for caring for them.

At any time you can ask experts for advice. Knowledgeable people will give you a comprehensive answer to your question.

Now you know such a plant as bougainvillea, home care, which will give you pleasure, you will be glad to see the results of your work and admire the southern beauty.

Indoor ever-flowering begonia was able to absorb the best qualities of all mother plants, which were used in obtaining this hybrid form. Such an ornamental plant can be propagated both by cuttings and by seed. Cutting is used by amateur growers more often than seed propagation.


In the middle of spring, begonias should be cut short enough, fed and watered regularly, which will allow the ornamental indoor plant after a while to grow new strong shoots that can be cut. Regrown cuttings must be cut and immersed in clean water at room temperature... After the roots are formed on the cuttings, they are planted in a flower pot filled with light and fertile soil.

From seed

Growing begonias from seeds is somewhat more difficult. Sowing a perennial with seeds should be started already in February, laying the seed on a damp soil surface. The planting container with crops must be covered with polyethylene or glass. The soil should be aired and sprayed daily.

The first shoots appear in about three weeks, after which the shelter is removed. Plants with a pair of true leaves should be dived into separate planting containers. Planting in a permanent place in the garden or at home is carried out in the last decade of spring or early summer.

How to care for poinsettia

Naturally, after such a wonderful acquisition, you should think about further care. Despite the fact that the poinsettia flower is unpretentious, every grower should become familiar with its characteristic features, as well as the basic care requirements.

Choosing a pot for poinsettia

Before planting poinsettia, you need to decide on the pot. It should be chosen so that it is 2-2.5 times smaller than the plant itself, and its diameter is the same amount as the root ball.

The plant does not impose special requirements for the height and width of the pot; it is important that the container is not too large.

The fact is that the larger the pot, the slower the soil dries in it, so the poinsettia that does not tolerate excessive moisture will be uncomfortable in a pot that is too voluminous.

Choosing a place for poinsettia

Poinsettia is very light-requiring, but this plant needs diffused light.

  • In the summer season, the pot should be placed on sunny windowsills or open balconies that provide shading from direct rays and drafts.
  • If the flower is in an open space, you need to make sure that it is not flooded with rain, poinsettia does not tolerate excess moisture.
  • Indoors, another subtlety: poinsettia needs regular ventilation.

From the beginning of autumn, proper lighting takes on a special importance to ensure flowering.

As you know, in order for the poinsettia to bloom, it should be in complete darkness for at least half a day, therefore, as soon as the daylight comes to an end, the plant should be immediately removed to a dark place or covered with an opaque dark film.

In the morning, the film is removed - and so on until the New Year. Otherwise, the plant will go "to the leaf", and flowering may not come at all. A correctly seasoned lighting regime allows poinsettia to start throwing flower buds, and later bracts, within a couple of weeks after darkening.

The air temperature during the flowering period of the poinsettia should not fall below 14 ° C; during the rest period, the temperature can be lowered by a couple of degrees. In summer, the plant develops normally within 18 - 25 ° C.

How to transplant a poinsettia after purchase

A transplant is a stressful event for any plant, especially for a flowering one, and Poinsettia is no exception - she does not easily endure such an event. For this reason, transplant it only when absolutely necessary.

For the procedure, the time is chosen after the end of the dormant period, so that in the process of active growth and development, it is easier for the flower to adapt to the new volume of the pot.

So, after a new pot has been selected (its diameter should not be more than 1-1.5 centimeters from the previous one), the flower must be carefully removed from the old one and moved to the prepared container using a simple transfer method, without disturbing the roots and without violating the integrity earthen coma. The gaps are filled with additional soil.

  1. In order to minimize stress, the bush is placed under a transparent cover to create increased air humidity.
  2. Do not forget to air the plant every day, otherwise unpleasant putrefactive processes may develop inside and harm the plant.
  3. The greenhouse can be removed in about a month - during this period, the roots are usually already adapted to the new volume.


This plant prefers indirect sunlight, so during the summer it needs some shading or placement on the northern and eastern windowsills. It is especially important to observe the lighting regime, starting in September. Only in this case it will be possible to make the poinsettia bloom.

  • With the onset of twilight, the plant is covered with a light-blocking bag or cap, thus maintaining the dark phase for 12-14 hours.
  • This regime should be maintained for about 8 weeks.
  • In 2-3 weeks, the laying of flower buds will begin, which will continue to ripen by the beginning of December.
  • If the plant is artificially illuminated without observing the alternation of the "day-night" periods, the poinsettia will develop a large number of lateral leafy shoots or grow up, but will not bloom.


The plant has 3 distinct periods in which the optimal temperature of the content will differ.

  1. Flowering period. Indoor poinsettia prefers a very moderate room temperature, not exceeding 16 degrees. That is why these plants thrive in poorly heated conservatories, in European living rooms, and in houses with individual heating.The higher the room temperature, the faster the poinsettia will shed the bracts.
  2. Rest period. Immediately after flowering and flowering, a dormant period begins. At this time, the temperature can be kept within 12-14 degrees Celsius. The plant sheds foliage and rests for about 2 months. At this time, it is necessary to reduce watering and keep the plant in a cool but bright place.
  3. Growth period. 2 months after the dormant period, it is time for the plant to grow. New buds appear on the shoots that have lost their foliage, the poinsettia comes to life. At this time, it is necessary to transplant the flower into new soil, prune and start feeding the plant. The temperature of the content can be normal, room temperature. For the summer period, poinsettia can be taken out into the garden, but be sure to shade it from the scorching rays of the sun.


In the hot season, watering should be frequent and fairly abundant. A dry top crust is a hint that the plant needs moisture. In winter, watering should be minimized by moistening the soil in the pot no more than once every three to four weeks.

Using pre-filtered and settled water for watering milkweed, it is necessary to warm it up a little in a microwave oven or on a stove. The ideal water temperature for irrigating poinsettia is 30 ° C.


The Star of Bethlehem, like a person, feels as comfortable as possible in a room where the humidity level fluctuates around 40-60%. Dry air is fraught with the appearance of pests. And excessive moisture - rotting of the root system.

Top dressing and fertilization

Poinsettia does not require frequent feeding. Moreover, during the period of flowering and dormancy, it is strictly prohibited.

Fertilizers can only be added when transplanting the plant, during the appearance of new leaves (spring-summer), as well as immediately before flowering (October-November). If you have chosen the right soil for transplanting, feeding can be done even less often.

Table - Seasonal feeding of poinsettia

Season Fertilizer
Spring and Autumn - Mineral complex (weak solution)
Summer - Mullein (weak solution)
- mineral complex
Winter - Potash dressing for decorative flowering houseplants


The Christmas star grows intensively, not only in breadth, but also upward. In order for a miniature flower to not one day turn into a giant that does not fit on the windowsill, the poinsettia must be cut off.

  1. Pruning is carried out after the houseplant completes flowering - in March-April.
  2. The stems are cut drastically, leaving green rods no more than 10 cm long in the pot.
  3. After pruning, the flower is left in a room with a comfortable temperature regime, watered and abundantly sprayed.
  4. After a few weeks, new shoots will begin to appear on the trimmed plant.
  5. Your task is to leave five to six of the most viable and strong stems with leaves. The rest must be eliminated by re-pruning. The eliminated shoots can be rooted in the ground.

Poinsettia is a poisonous plant. Therefore, any manipulations with it must be carried out with rubber gloves. For safety reasons, keep the flower pot away from small children and pets.

Poinsettia formation

  • In order for the plant to quickly form a magnificent bush, after flowering, it is transplanted into a larger pot and not pruned. However, there is a nuance: while actively growing, the poinsettia never blooms with this method of transplantation. Therefore, before the period of rest comes, trimming the poinsettia is still necessary.
  • The second stage of formation begins at the moment when the poinsettia comes out of hibernation. As soon as new shoots appear on the plant, it is examined and 4-5 of the strongest shoots are selected, others are cut off with a sharp knife.

As a result, the plant develops a beautiful and lush, but neat crown, which gives the flower a decorative look.

Photos and names of decorative home flowers

Ornamental plants are valued for flowers of various shapes and colors, unusual foliage, a variety of forms, including erect, creeping and ampelous, herbaceous and tree-like. Indoor flowers can be of local origin and come from the most remote corners of the world. Such plants differ not only in appearance, but also in habits, require different conditions of maintenance and care.

Someone is keen on succulents, someone is more interested in watching the growth of epiphytes. Although it is almost impossible to get acquainted with all types of home flowers, their photos and names, a short catalog will be an excellent help in choosing a “green pet” to your liking.


An evergreen shrub that easily tolerates crown formation, blooming in late spring and mid-autumn. Numerous varieties and hybrids of the indoor flower abutilon prefer partial shade, are responsive to care, giving their owner a mass of white, yellow, pink, crimson "bells" up to 10-12 cm in diameter.

To recuperate, the plant needs a cool wintering at 12-15 degrees.


The photo and the name of this house flower in a pot became famous thanks to the famous film "Leon". Today, the herbaceous perennial is popular due to the variegated leathery foliage of the broad-lanceolate shape and unpretentiousness when kept indoors.

The color of leaves of different species and varieties contains not only green, white and silver tones, but also bright pink and purple colors.


Ferns are not uncommon among domestic plants. Herbaceous evergreen crops attract attention with carved fronds and endurance. One of the most popular ferns is the maidenhair, whose young fronds are gracefully folded and have a pinkish-cream color. In the house, the flower needs partial shade and cool maintenance in the winter.


These indoor plants with flowers of white, pink, purple color are not obedient to all growers. But with the creation of the right conditions and constant attention, medium-sized shrubs related to rhododendrons delight with generous flowering and a long life at home.


Among the many types of indoor flowers, there are many cultures belonging to the Aroid family. People from the tropics of the Southern Hemisphere invariably amaze with the splendor of the greenery and the variety of forms.

When you come across a photo of decorative home flowers with the name "alocasia", it is easy to see how these plants differ externally. And this is not surprising, because several dozen representatives of the genus, for example, alocasia napellus, fragrant, copper-red, are unpretentious decorative deciduous crops appreciated by amateur flower growers.

Unlike alocasia, which loves moisture, all types of aloe are succulents that can survive drought thanks to the water accumulated in the succulent leaves. Aloe tree-like or agave is more often grown as home flowers. The plant, up to one and a half meters high, is decorated with long leaves up to 30 cm long, set on the edges with thorns.

The value of the plant is in its non-capricious disposition and healing juice, which has a softening, anti-inflammatory and moisturizing effect.


Anthurium is another representative of the extensive Aroid family, which has become a popular indoor flower. The characteristic features of the plant are an underground stem, pointed-heart-shaped dense leaves, holding on high erect petioles, and inflorescences-cobs, decorated with bright bedspreads up to 15 centimeters long. The modified leaf is painted in bright white-pink, scarlet, greenish-purple tones.

See also: Choose yourself one of the types and varieties of spathiphyllum based on photos and descriptions


Asparagus, akin to the culinary delicacy asparagus, as a houseplant is distinguished by an unpretentious disposition, active growth and a long pot life. Several species of this culture, thanks to the needle-like foliage, ampelous or bush-like shape, have long earned the respect and love of flower growers. The decorative effect of the plant is complemented by a rare but memorable flowering. White flowers collected in a brush are small, but fragrant. After their wilting, red, rounded berries are formed.


Aspidistra, originally from Southeast Asia, is an ornamental deciduous plant, the main attraction of which is large broad-lanceolate leaves up to 80 cm long. stripes. Flowers of this species are inconspicuous and even invisible. Corollas reddish-brown or purple in color appear near the ground.


Home flowers in pots, in the photo, are popularly called "Vanka Wet" or "touchy". Balsam, which has taken root on the windowsills of our grandmothers, loves moisture, light and warmth. An extremely unpretentious plant, due to the presence of a mass of varieties, is ready to please the grower with the flowering of simple and double flowers of various shades.


Begonia is a rare plant with decorative leaves and flowers. There are more than 1000 cultivated varietal and hybrid forms of begonias in the world, which are actively used for gardening in the house and outside. House flowers can differ in the way they are propagated, be bush or ampelous, bloom seasonally or permanently.

Connoisseurs of decorative deciduous crops highly appreciate the bright, unlike anything else greenery of these unpretentious, fast-growing flowers.

Indoor geranium (pelargonium)

Unpretentious, abundantly and long blooming, Pelargonium is an ideal indoor flower for beginners. The plant easily adapts to life in an apartment, lends itself to formation, if necessary, renews and reproduces without problems vegetatively. And a sea of ​​varieties of various shapes and colors will help create a unique atmosphere in the house and decorate the interior.


Perennial hibiscus, related to garden mallows and lavaters, has taken root as a houseplant in Russian conditions. A large flowering crop is grown as a shrub or standard tree. With proper care and sufficient nutrition, it has an enviable longevity, grows to a height of 2–2.5 meters and regularly pleases the appearance of spectacular red, pink, coral flowers.


The bulbous perennial is popular for its easy care and incredibly vibrant blooms. It is accompanied by the appearance of powerful, up to 70 cm tall, peduncles with several simple or double flowers. The color of the corollas depends on the variety and can be variegated, white, pink, scarlet or deep crimson. The leaves of the hippeastrum form a fur-bearing basal rosette, have a smooth surface and a pointed linear shape. In autumn, this type of indoor flower begins a dormant period that lasts several months and requires dry, cool storage of the bulbs.

See also: Let's grow passionflower from seeds at home


Velvety large bells and the same exquisite "soft" oval-shaped leaves are characteristic features of the home flower of gloxinia. A tuberous plant with a winter dormant period for flowering requires long daylight hours, nutritious soil and a wide pot.

Above one rosette of leaves, several dozen spectacular flowers of all shades from white to deep purple can flaunt at the same time.


Guzmania attracts itself thanks to the bright foliage bordering a not so noticeable and lush inflorescence. Flowering, which begins after 3 years of the planting field and lasts up to 3 months, means the imminent death of the mother plant, which should be replaced by the basal daughter rosettes.


An ornamental deciduous plant with large leaves of different colors is relatively unpretentious, stands out for its high growth rate and numerous natural and varietal forms. As in nature, at home the flower named Dieffenbachia shown in the photo in a pot should receive enough moisture, heat, nutrition and a lot of bright, but diffused light.


Accustomed in nature to truly "Spartan" conditions, the dracaena is not capricious in the apartment. Several varieties are grown as house flowers, eventually forming a "tree" with a bare trunk and a cap of tough green or variegated foliage at the top.


Zamioculcas is a tuberous plant from the Aroid family that is often found in the collections of flower growers keen on evergreen decorative deciduous crops. An unpretentious indoor flower from 50 to 150 cm in height forms several powerful dense stems covered with glossy oval-pointed leaves. Mature plants, when properly cared for, form milky-white cob inflorescences.


Encyclopedias and catalogs of indoor flowers with photographs and names of plants often contain references to the Kalanchoe. Moreover, plants with this name are often included in the list of decorative and medicinal crops. We are talking about different related species, interesting and remarkable in their own way.

The common features of all varieties are simplicity, rapid growth, easy reproduction by all available vegetative methods and responsiveness to care.

Decorative varieties amaze with the splendor of flowering, and the viviparous species of Kalanchoe will help to cope with skin and colds.


Clivia is an evergreen rhizome plant with a powerful root rosette of long leathery leaves. During flowering, the plant produces a powerful peduncle with bright orange-yellow corollas gathered at the top in an umbrella. At home, flowers last for more than 3 weeks.


Arrowroot is a low, often creeping or ampelous perennial with decorative foliage, combining shades of light and dark greens, purple and pink, white and brownish tones on one leaf plate.

Euphorbia Mil

Euphorbia Mila in Russia is better known as the "crown of thorns". This unpretentious plant in nature reaches a height of 2 meters. In a pot, a succulent with a tough stem covered with long thorns and a bunch of leaves at the top is much smaller. The unusual appearance of the plant is completed by small inflorescences, bordered by bright bracts, in scarlet, pink, yellow and white tones.

See also: Blooming Kalanchoe is the best window sill decoration


Sansevieria or "mother-in-law's language" has been a regular on window sills for many years. The unassuming house flower is popular for its tough foliage, variegated pattern or light border.

Sansevieria is one of the most common indoor flowers, but the cylindrical variety with pointed erect leaves of the original shape is only gaining adherents.

Fat woman

The decorative house flowers in the photo owe their name to the fleshy, coin-like leaves. The fat woman or "money tree" is an excellent home plant that even a beginner can take care of. In terms of endurance and easy reproduction, the flower can only be compared with the Kalanchoe. Even a fallen leaf will soon take root and give rise to a new plant.


Tradescantia is an excellent ampelous flower for home growing. The plant is distinguished by its rapid growth, high decorativeness, unpretentiousness and light agricultural technology. The presence of varieties with variegated foliage of different shades allows you to create unique compositions using one crop. Tradescantia is hygrophilous, amenable to crown formation and takes root easily, in water or on the ground.


Phalaenopsis or "butterfly-like" flower. This most popular orchid in nature is the epiphyte.At home, the flower is content with a special pot and substrate, unlike ordinary soil. The relatively simple care of phalaenopsis allows the novice orchid lover to master all the features of these ornamental plants.

Violet Usambar (Saintpaulia)

At first glance, the Uzambara violet captivates with the appearance of its fleecy foliage collected in lush rosettes, over which simple, semi- or double flowers of the most bizarre shapes and colors reign with a bright hat. Modern varieties of Saintpaulias number in the thousands and represent plants of giants and dwarfs, monochromatic and variegated flowers, green leaves and greenery with white or pink edging.


A catalog of indoor flowers with photographs and names of various species and varieties of ficuses can be published as a separate book. Today, there are almost a thousand varieties of this plant, several dozen are grown in culture, in the form of a bush, tree, ground cover and even ampelous specimens. The most widespread are Benjamin's ficus and rubber-bearing.


Chlorophytum (photo) is the leader among plants in terms of the ability to purify the air. But this is not the only reason for the popularity of the indoor flower. Non-capricious and easily propagated in the house, herbaceous perennial forms lush rosettes of pointed-lanceolate leaves of green or variegated color. The peculiarity of the culture is the flowers and daughter rosettes of the plant formed on long hanging shoots.

Among domestic vines, hoya is one of the first places in terms of beauty and popularity. An evergreen perennial with long stems covered with dense "waxy" leaves and umbrella inflorescences of fragrant star-shaped flowers leaves no one indifferent. At the same time, ivy growing on a suitable surface does not need special care and is excellent for keeping at home.

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