By: Amy Grant
Strawberries are one of the most popular berries, not only to eat but to grow in the home garden. They are suitable for growth in the garden and make suitable container plants too. There are a number of varieties available to the gardener with Sequoia strawberry plants a popular choice. So, how do you grow Sequoia strawberry plants, and what other Sequoia strawberry information will lead to a successful harvest? Read on to learn more.
Fragaria ananassa ‘Sequoia’ is a hybrid berry developed for coastal California. Plants are set in the early spring except when growing Sequoia strawberries in USDA zones 7 and 8 where they should be planted in the fall. They are grown as perennials in zones 4-8 and grown as annuals elsewhere.
Widely adapted to most any region, Sequoia strawberry plants yield large, sweet, juicy berries from the 6- to 8-inch (15 to 20.5 cm.) tall plant, which spreads via one foot (0.5 m.) long runners. Runners span out from the parent and establish new plants. This variety is especially loved by warm climate gardeners and bears fruit for many months.
So is Sequoia strawberry everbearing? No, it fruits early and continuously over a three-month or longer period of time.
Select a site in full sun exposure when growing Sequoia strawberries. Space plants 18 inches (45.5 cm.) apart in a 3-inch (7.5 cm.) bed or in rows set 3-4 feet (1 m.) apart. If using as container plants, use one to three per large container or four to five per strawberry pot.
Strawberries like well-draining, moist, sandy soil with plenty of organic matter. Dig in a broadcast fertilizer prior to planting. Strawberries should be mulched, although it’s not absolutely necessary. Black 1-1 ½ mil (0.025 to 0.04 mm.) plastic is ideal but straw or other organic material may be used.
Be sure you are buying certified, disease-free plants and be ready to plant immediately. If for some reason you cannot set the strawberries right away, you can keep them wrapped in a refrigerator for a couple of days or “heel them in” singly into a V-shaped trench for a few hours.
Ensure both the plants and the soil are moist before setting the berries. Spread the roots out and set them at the correct depth, making sure no roots are exposed. Now that your plants are set, what other Sequoia strawberry care do you need to know?
Sequoias should be kept consistently moist but not deluged. The initial broadcast fertilizer along with the introduction of compost into the soil should be sufficient fertilizer during the first growing season. If you live in a region where the berries are perennial, additional fertilizer should be added prior to the successive growing season in the spring.
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I have been growing and helping others grow organic strawberries for many years. While the segment of the population that is concerned about how their food is grown is still a minority, more and more people are discovering the benefits of sustainable agriculture. And, as more and more gardeners test out their green thumbs, gardens all around the world are finding strawberry plants inhabiting space next to herbs and other garden plants. Going green and growing healthy food go well together and since virtually everyone loves strawberries, this post will help those who want to eschew the conventional methods (which are somewhat notorious for producing dirty strawberries) for potentially safer ones. Plus, since no one wants to trade a basket full of bright, plump strawberries for just a hand full, the four secrets I’ll fill you in on momentarily will help you get started on your journey of successfully growing organic strawberries!
The states and the specific varieties recommended for growing in each one are listed in alphabetical order below. Simply scroll down to the appropriate letter and find the state for which you are looking, or click your state’s abbreviation in the table below to jump straight there. If the variety is linked, clicking the link will take you directly to a list of nurseries or wholesalers who offer that particular variety for sale online.
Recommended strawberry varieties for Alabama: Albritton, Allstar, Cardinal, Chandler, Delite, Douglas, Earlibelle, Earliglow, Sunrise. (According to the Alabama Cooperative Extension Services of Alabama A&M and Auburn Universities)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Alaska: Brighton, Fern, Hecker, Irvine, Mrak, Muir, Ogallala, Ozark Beauty, Quinault, Selva, Streamliner, Superfection, Tillicum, Tribute, Tristar, Yolo. (According to the University of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Arizona: Camarosa, Chandler. Note: Arizona is not considered a good location for strawberry cultivation. (According to the University of Arizona Citrus Agricultural Center)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Arkansas: Cardinal, Camarosa, Chandler, Delmarvel, Earliglow, Lateglow, Noreaster, Sweet Charlie, Tribute, Tristar. (According to the University of Arkansas Department of Agriculture Cooperative Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for California: Albion, Aromas, Camarosa, Camino Real, Chandler, Diamante, Gaviota, Oso Grande, Pacific, Seascape, Selva, Ventana. (According to the California Strawberry Commission)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Colorado: Catskill, Empire, Fairfax, Fort Laramie, Geneva, Guardian, Marlate, Ogallala, Ozark Beauty, Quinault, Redchief, Red Rich, Redstar, Robinson, Superfection, Tribute. (Colorado State University Cooperative Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Connecticut: Brunswick, Cabot, Clancy, Darselect, Earliglow, Eros, Honeoye, Jewel, L’Amour, Sable. (According to the New England Vegetable and Fruit Conference)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Delaware: Allstar, Delite, Earliglow, Guardian, Late Glow, Red Chief, Sparkle, Tribute, Tristar. (According to the University of Delaware College of Agriculture & Natural Resources Cooperative Extension)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Florida: Calibrate, Camarosa, Florida Belle, Florida 90, Rosa Linda, Sequoia, Sweet Charlie, Strawberry Festival, Tioga. (According to the University of Florida University Relations Department)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Georgia: Apollo, Delite, Cardinal, Earliglow, Sunrise, Surecrop. (According to the University of Georgia College of Agricultural & Environmental Sciences)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Hawaii: Eversweet, Quinault, Seascape. Although strawberries are grown commercially on the Islands, and the Fragaria chiloensis species of strawberries grow at elevation there, they are more difficult to grow in the tropical environment and not highly recommended. The three varieties listed are sold in nurseries on Hawaii.
Recommended strawberry varieties for Idaho: Allstar, Benton, Blomidon, Catskill, Cavendish, Earliglow, Fort Laramie, Glooscap, Guardian, Honeoye, Jewel, Lateglow, Lester, Micmac, Quinault, Redchief, Scott, Shuksan, Surecrop, Totem, Tribute, Tristar. (According to the University of Idaho Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Illinois: Allstar, Annapolis, Delmarvel, Earliglow, Honeoye, Jewel, Kent, Seneca, Tribute, Tristar. (According to the University of Illinois Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Indiana: Delite, Earliglow, Fort Laramie, Guardian, Sunrise, Ozark Beauty, Redchief, Sparkle, Surecrop. (According to the Purdue University Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Iowa: Annapolis, Cavendish, Delmarvel, Honeoye, Jewel, Kent, Mohawk, Primetime, Winona. (According to the Iowa State University Southeast Research and Demonstration Farm)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Kansas: Allstar, Earliglow, Guardian, Northeaster, Ogallala, Ozark Beauty, Primetime, Redchief, Tribute, Tristar. (According to the Kansas State University Agricultural Experiment Station and Cooperative Extension Service’s Horticultural Report)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Kentucky: Camarosa, Chandler, Jewel, Northeaster, Sweet Charlie. (According to the University of Kentucky Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture’s Fruit and Vegetable Crops Research Report)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Louisiana: Camarosa, Camino Real, Strawberry Festival. (According to the Louisiana State University AgCenter Research & Extension)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Maine: Allstar, Bounty, Catskill, Earliglow, Guardian, Lateglow, Midway, Mira, Mohawk, Northeaster, Surecrop. (According to the University of Maine Cooperative Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Maryland: Allstar, Bish, Chandler, Darselect, Eros, Jewel, KRS-10, Oviation, Seascape. (According to the University of Maryland Agricultural Experiment Station). Flavorfest (recommended by Kim Lewers of the USDA’s Agricultural Research Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Massachusetts: Catskill, Earlidawn, Fletcher, Guardian, Midway, Raritan, Redchief, Sparkle, Surecrop. (According to farminfo.org)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Michigan: Allstar, Annapolis, Bounty, Cavendish, Chambly, Delmarvel, Earliglow, Glooscap, Honeoye, Jewel, Redchief, Tribute, Tristar. (According to the Michigan State University Extension Van Buren County)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Minnesota: Cavendish, Kent, Mesabi, Winona. (According to the University of Minnesota Agricultural Experiment Station and Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Mississippi: Cardinal, Chandler, Comet, Dixieland, Douglas, Florida 90, Pocahontas, Sunrise, Tangi, Tennessee Beauty. (According to the Mississippi State University Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Missouri: Allstar, Cardinal, Earliglow, Guardian, Honeoye, Jewel, Lateglow, Ogallala, Ozark Beauty, Redchief, Sparkle, Surecrop, Tribute, Tristar. (According to the University of Missouri Horticultural MU Guide)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Montana: Catskill, Fern, Fort Laramie, Gem, Glooscap, Hecker, Honeoye, Ogallala, Red Rich, Redcoat, Senator Dunlap, Sparkle, Streamliner, Tribute, Tristar, Veestar, Vibrant. (According to the Montana State University Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Nebraska: Earliglow, Ft. Laramie, Ogallala, Sunrise, Surecrop, Redchief, Tribute, Tristar. (According to the University of Nebraska Lincoln Extension in Lancaster County)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Nevada: Camarosa, Chandler. Note: Nevada is not considered a good location for strawberry traditional strawberry cultivation.
Recommended strawberry varieties for New Hampshire: Allstar, Cavendish, Cornwallis, Earliglow, Redchief, Sparkle. (According to the University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension)
Recommended strawberry varieties for New Jersey: Delmarvel, Earliglow, Guardian, Latestar, Lester, Northeaster, Raritan, Redchief, Sparkle, Tribute, Tristar. (According to the National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for New Mexico: Fern, Fort Laramie, Gem, Guardian, Ogallala, Ozark Beauty, Quinault, Robinson, Selva, Sequoia, Streamliner, Superfection, Surecrop, Tribute, Tristar, Tufts. (According to the New Mexico State University Cooperative Extension Service and College of Agriculture and Home Economics)
Recommended strawberry varieties for New York: Allstar, Bounty, Cavendish, Delite, Earliglow, Fletcher, Guardian, Honeoye, Jewel, Kent, Raritan, Redchief, Scott. (According to the Cornell Cooperative Extension Suffolk County)
Recommended strawberry varieties for North Carolina: Albion, Bish, Camarosa, Camino Real, Chandler, Gaviota, Gem Star, Oso Grande, Seascape, Strawberry Festival, Sweet Charlie, Treasure, Ventana. (According to the North Carolina Strawberry Association)
Recommended strawberry varieties for North Dakota: Dunlap, Ft. Laramie, Gem, Honeoye, Redcoat, Stoplight, Trumpeter. (According to the North Dakota State Agricultural and University Extension)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Ohio: Delite, Earliglow, Guardian, Kent, Lateglow, Lester, Midway, Redchief, Surecrop, Tribute, Tristar. (According to the Ohio State University Extension)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Oklahoma: Albritton , Allstar, Apollo, Arking, Blakemore, Canoga, Cardinal, Chandler, Delite, Earliglow, Fletcher, Guardian, Holiday, Hood, Lateglow, Luscious Lady, Ozark Beauty, Scott, Spring Giant, Sunrise, Surecrop, Tennessee Beauty, Trumpeter. (According to the Oklahoma State University Cooperative Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Oregon: Benton, Fern, Ft. Laramie, Hecker, Hood, Olympus, Ozark Beauty, Puget Reliance, Quinault, Rainier, Redcrest, Selva, Shuksan, Sumas, Tillikum, Tristar, Totem. (According to the Oregon State University Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Pennsylvania: Albion, Allstar, Camarosa, Chandler, Darselect, Earliglow, Everest, Evie-2, Honeoye, Jewel, L’Amour, Seascape, Sweet Charlie, Tribute, Tristar, Wendy. (According to the Penn State University Small-scale and Part-time Farming Project)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Rhode Island: Brunswick, Cabot, Clancy, Darselect, Earliglow, Eros, Honeoye, Jewel, L’Amour, Sable. (According to the New England Vegetable and Fruit Conference)
Recommended strawberry varieties for South Carolina: Albritton, Apollo, Cardinal, Chandler, Delite, Douglas, Earliglow, Florida 90, Sunrise, Surecrop, Tioga. (According to the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for South Dakota: Annapolis, Bounty, Crimson King, Earliglow, Ft. Laramie, Glooscap, Honeoye, Jewel, Kent, Ogallala, Ozark Beauty, Redcoat, Selva, Seneca, Settler, Sparkle, Tribute, Tristar, Trumpeter, Veestar. (According to the South Dakota State University Cooperative Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Tennessee: Allstar, Cardinal, Delite, Delmarvel, Earliglow, Guardian, Lateglow, Red Chief, Scott, Surecrop, Tribute, Tristar. (According to the Agricultural Extension Service of the University of Tennessee)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Texas: Allstar, Cardinal, Chandler, Douglas, Pajaro, Sequoia. (According to the Texas A&M System, Department of Horticultural Sciences, AgriLife Extension)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Utah: Allstar, Chandler, Earliglow, Evie-2, Honeoye, Jewel, Ogallala, Seascape, Sparkle, Tribute. (According to the Utah State University Cooperative Extension)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Virginia: Allstar, Delite, Delmarvel, Earliglow, Honeoye, Lateglow, Ozark Beauty, Redchief, Sunrise, Surecrop, Tribute, Tristar. (According to the Virginia Cooperative Extension)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Washington: Hood, Nanaimo, Puget Reliance, Quinault, Rainier, Selva, Shuksan, Tillicum, Totem, Tribute, Tristar. (According to the Washington State University Extension)
Recommended strawberry varieties for West Virginia: Allstar, Annapolis, Earliglow, Sable, Seneca, Surecrop. (According to the West Virginia University Extension Service)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Wisconsin: Annapolis, Cavendish, Crimson Fern, Fort Laramie, King, Earliglow, Glooscap, Honeoye, Jewel, Kent, Lateglow, Lester, Mesabi, Mira, Ogallala, Ozark Beauty, Raritan, Redchief, Seascape, Selva, Seneca, Sparkle, Tribute, Tristar, Winona. (According to the Cooperative Extension System of the University of Wisconsin)
Recommended strawberry varieties for Wyoming: Dunlap, Fort Laramie, Guardian, Honeoye, Ogallala, Ozark Beauty, Quinault, Redcoat, Surecrop, Tribute, Tristar, Trumpeter. (According to the University of Wyoming College of Agriculture)
My husband has been reminiscing about the small flavorful variety that his grandmother used to grow. We live in central washington state, the desert of washington, late springs, hot summers, low elevation.
What variety would you recommend.
I am prepared to start with strawberry home DIY 3 D tower project in Angola (Luanda).
Can you please advise me the right kind of strawberry (variety)? For the first step I need 60 pcs.
Thank you very much in advance.
Hi im Nelda,
I live in the philippines, can you advise me what variety to plant? There are a lot of strawberry plants here…but i want to try other varieties that can adopt to tropical climate. My area is in high altitude.
I’m Alhudan i am from Indonesia, I have planted almost 150 trees of strawberry, but the strawberry that I have is not so big I have given compost manure, please give me advice on what kind of strawberry? which is suitable for a tropical climate that has a large size?
Hi. I live in Utah. I bought Everbearing strawberries at my local nursery. They have been very prolific and bear lots of fruit in early and late summer, just not in really hot months. One thing I recommend is planting them far enough apart. They seem to grow quite large
I planted 50 Ozark beauty plants in April. Trimmed runners and flowers until plant was bigger. Now beginning of July I’m waiting for berries. I had some flowers but not what I would consider good for 50 plants.
I’ve used some 10-10-10 and a bit of bone meal after planting.
Had minor probs with red stele but phosphorous seemed to help.
Plants look good for most part, just waiting on fruit. Do I just need patience or soil amendment?
Good day, I am interested in the production of strawberries at commercial level and under a system of semi hydroponics, but in my city (Lima – Peru) the weather is something special, we have a summer from December to April with temperatures of 19 ° C per the night and 25 ° C in the day, with an autumn as well as the almost imperceptible spring, the winter is well marked (and special for what I will comment) begins in June and extends until October with an average temperature of 12 ° C per the night and 16 ° C of day with a relative humidity between 75% and 90%, it does not rain, the detail is in that the sky is gray (cloudy) but with embarrassment in this epoch, according to these conditions that variety could use.
Thanks, I’m waiting.
Have you tried the Eversweet everbearing strawberry? I would suggest trying it on a small scale to see how it grows in your climate. The variety that you plant will depend on what is available in your country, as most countries prohibit the import of plants due to disease risks.
I live in a tropical area. here october- january is basically the winter season. is it possible to grow strawberries here?
if possible which type of variety can be best to grow?
tnanks in advance.
It is very difficult to grow strawberries in tropical climates. You can do it in climate-controlled environments, and you might be able to get a crop with short-day June-bearing strawberries during the winter months. However, I’d not recommend trying it due to the possible complication. Good luck!
I live in Western NC. My husband and I just constructed 3 raised beds and are planting strawberries in one of them. We bought Quinault and Allstar plants and just bought and planted 40 Jewel roots. I just read on your web-site that Jewel are suseptible to root rot and a number of other not so good things. Should I pull the roots out and start over and will they affet my Quinault and Allstar berries. Thanks
You can, but I wouldn’t if it were my beds and I’d already planted. The fact that you constructed raised beds is good as it will facilitate water drainage. If you take appropriate care of them, you will likely have no problems with any of the varieties you planted. If you want to be completely safe, however, you could uproot and replant a different variety. Good luck!
Does anyone still sell Pocahontas variety strawberries. I am looking to start growing strawberries again an this was my best berry variety.
All of the varieties of which I am aware are listed here. Good luck!
I live in Arkansas and I decided to grow everbearing berries this year. I planted mostly Ozark Beauty with a couple of Quinault plants that I got on sale at a nursery. I noticed that neither is recommended in Arkansas, but the Ozark Beauty is recommended in Missouri, which I live near. Are any of these two not recommended?
While neither of those two are recommended “officially” for Arkansas, both should do just fine there. I’d not worry with it at all and just enjoy your harvest when it comes in! Good luck!
hi i am saroj form nepal. i need a some idea how to growth to strawberry and tenmpeture and care about strawberry
Hi Friends I live in Nth/Est Thailand & would like to help the local farmers grow something different to rice Our climate is 3/4 months rain the rest is hot & humid Can you please give me some ideas as to which variety of strawberries to grow here Kindness
Unfortunately, strawberries are naturally temperate and just won’t do very well in constant heat and humidity. The 3/4 months of rain will cause pathogenic fungi organisms to damage or kill your strawberry plants. So, it would probably be better in this case to not try. I’m sorry!
I was interested in buying the Camarosa variety and the flavorfest variety of strawberries. However, I live in western Massachusetts and these strawberries are not on the Massachusetts list. If these are not recommended for my area, could you recommend something to me. Thank you.
Although the Camarosa and Flavorfest varieties aren’t on the list, both should do just fine in Massachusetts. Go ahead and plant them! Good luck!
i live in Puerto Rico a very hot tropical island, which strawberry plant its right for this climate, thank you…
Unfortunately, if you don’t have a climate-controlled greenhouse, no strawberries are well-suited for your location. Sorry!
Acquired Loran strawberry plants 2 years ago for my southwestern PA location. They did terrible in my raised garden. In fact, after scanning the various states, I cannot find the Loran variety recommended for any USA state. Could you please tell me what geographical area the Loran variety is intended for? This year, choosing more geographically friendly varieties!
Loran plants are more of an ornamental variety. They typically aren’t recommended for fruit production. Good luck!
I am wanting to produce day-neutral strawberries commercially in central Kansas. I am looking at planting Evie 2 and Albion. Any tips or suggestions?
You might want to consider using a June-bearing type. The day-neutrals are harder to make profitable due to their overall lower yield of berries as compared to June-bearing varieties. If you are sure you want to go with a day-neutral variety, the two you mentioned can work. Tribute and Tristar are a couple of others you may want to investigate. Good luck!
if I wanted to start propagating strawberry plants, how can I determine which plants are illegal to grow and sell? (i.e. – new varieties and legal protections?)
The best way is to check with the nursery where the plants were purchased. Good luck!
this site has helped me out so much. ive started a berry garden and was wondering if theres a miss blueberry or mr blackberry…. id like my other berrys to look as good as my strawberry..
Thanks for the compliment! I do actually grow blueberries also, but I don’t have time to maintain a blueberry site as well. I’m sorry!
Last week at my local Home Depot in Canton, I bought some Alistar, Ozark Beauty and the Quinault variety berries and after checking the list for Ohio, none of these varieties are recommend for the state. Will they grow in my area and why if they are not recommended for this area would the local Home Depot sell them? The plants are in the Bonnie brand pots that get planted directly into the ground. Any help you can supply would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much.
Doug in OH,
While those varieties may not be specifically recommended as the best possible varieties, they ARE some of the most popular, well-adapted varieties. Home Depot and Lowes and the other big box stores contract out to the big nurseries to get a certain amount of plants and then distribute those out to their retail outlets. They choose varieties that should do reasonably well across many different climates and locations. The varieties of plants you purchased should still do well for you if you care for them appropriately, so don’t worry! And, good luck!
UGH, I just bought 12 Oregon and All Star Strawberry plants at Home Depot. I live in Asheville, NC a 3,000 ft elevation. The oregon and alstar are suggested for oregon not NC. Should I take them back.
No, if they were available where you live, they should do well. All Star, in particular, is a very well-adapted variety. You should do just fine with those varieties. Good luck!
We live in Eastern TN, elevation around 1000′, humid summers, rainy winters. I would like to plant Quinault and 1 other variety, what would you recommend? I’m looking for superior taste more than any other quality. Thank you so very much.
Click this link to see the recommended varieties for Tennessee. Good luck!
I just received Fiesta variety cultivars to plant as a substitute for my Chandler variety of plugs.
However, I cannot see anything about this variety on the web. Can you tell me if they are suited for Arkansas and anything about them. Are they a day neutral or ever9bearing?
Fiesta strawberries are a less-common variety, but are more suitable to warmer weather than are many other varieties, just like Chandler strawberries are. They are a good substitute for Chandlers. I believe they are June-bearing. If you don’t mind me asking, where did you get the Fiesta plugs/plants from?
Growing strawberries in Austin can be done successfully in home gardens with the right growing conditions. Strawberries thrive in a well drained soil and are especially well adapted to slightly acidic sandy loams. While this limits their commercial production potential in most Travis County soils, few fruits can compete with them in terms of flavor and productivity. Each plant is a hardworking miniature sugar factory capable of producing one or more pints of fruit every spring. Strawberries are high in vitamin C and despite their delightfully sweet flavor weigh in at only 50 calories per cup!
Texas Superstar Strawberry ‘Festival’
Strawberry species are found throughout much of the world. Our modern day varieties are actually a chance cross between two species, the meadow strawberry native to eastern North America and the beach strawberry from the west coast of South America. It seems that each of these species found its way across the Atlantic Ocean to Europe where they were planted in close proximity in some French gardens. The vigorous, productive seedlings that developed were the forerunners of our American varieties.
The first key to being successful at growing strawberries in Austin is to select a sunny location. Strawberries can take some shade but production will become progressively less as you move from full sun to part shade. You need a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight for best results.
The second key is to plant them in an area where the soil is light and well drained. Heavy clay soils will result in poor growth, chlorotic plants and significant loss from crown and root rot diseases. Most area gardeners in Travis County do not have ideal soil conditions. We recommend you build a raised bed and fill it with a store bought blend of sandy topsoil and finely screened compost. Avoid chunky landscape blends as they tend to have excessive air space and are not as well suited to the shallow rooted plants.
|Strawberry bed mix|
|2 parts||bank sand or builder’s sand|
|1 part||peat or finely screened compost|
|1 part||loam topsoil|
If drainage is poor, raised beds are especially important. A small, well constructed 4′ X 8′ bed can produce a nice harvest of strawberries and is not that difficult or expensive to build. Once the bed is built it can be used for other crops during the summer and replanted to strawberries the following fall.
An alternative to a bordered bed is to build raised rows 8-10 inches high and 18 inches wide on top. Space rows about 42 inches apart. Container culture is another option for gardeners lacking space or sunlight, because containers can be moved to a sunny location.
A soil test is your best guide to determine which nutrients should be added prior to planting. In the absence of a soil test, apply 1 cup of an organic 4-1-2 or 3-1-2 ratio product, OR 1/2 cup of a synthetic product with the same ratio of nutrients per 25 square feet of soil surface area and mix it in well prior to planting.
There are two basic systems of planting strawberries, the perennial matted row system and the annual system.
In the traditional matted row planting system, plants are set out and allowed to send out runners over the season to form a dense and wide row of plants. After the spring harvest period ends the row is narrowed by rototilling it down to a narrow strip. The plants then send out new runners continuing the cycle. This system is not recommended for central Texas as it is significantly less productive than the annual system, ties up the garden space year round, and requires months of watering, weed control, and dealing with pests and diseases.
The “annual” system is the system of choice for warmer areas of the south if you are growing strawberries in Austin and central Texas. Plants are set 12 inches apart in a staggered double or triple row from mid September to early November, carried through the winter, harvested in spring (primarily late February through early May), and then plowed under. This leaves the area available for a productive summer garden. Weeds, diseases and pests are minimized and yields can be very high.
Stagger plants for best results
Strawberry plants should be set at the same depth they grew in the nursery (mid-point of the crown). This planting depth is very important. Planting too shallow or too deep will give poor performance and possible loss of plants.
Set plants into the soil mid-point of the crown
Water the plants well immediately after planting. While drip irrigation is the best choice for watering established plants, during this establishment phase use a sprinkler to wet a larger area and to wet the foliage. This reduces transplant shock. Continue to water them lightly twice a day for a week to keep the tops moist. Then gradually wean them back to one or two sprinklings a week over the next month or so. Many plants are lost or severely set back during the first few days and weeks after planting if they are allowed to dry out. After they have been in a month they’ll have enough roots for the drip irrigation to take over. Discontinue the sprinkler irrigation since the frequent wetting will increase the incidence of diseases.
A major advantage of the annual system is that plants need not be pampered through the hot, dry, weedy, summer months. Dormant plants from cold storage are used in September planting, while dormant fresh dug plants are used in October-November planting. Occasionally plugs, which are runner tips rooted in transplant trays may be found for sale.
Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Fertilize every few weeks in small doses with an organic or synthetic liquid fertilizer to maintain good health and vigor. While strawberries are very hardy in our mild central Texas winters it pays to cover them with a frost blanket on freezing nights. Some growers leave a lighter weight rowcover fabric on the plants for extended periods during the winter months. The slightly warmer conditions beneath the rowcover will speed up growth. Remove the rowcover in February so bees can get to the plants to pollinate the blooms but be ready to put it back on when frost is forecast.
Strawberries are divided into three basic groups: spring bearing, everbearing, and day-neutral. The essential difference between these three groups is the day length conditions when flower buds are initiated in the crown of the plant.
Spring bearing cultivars initiate flower buds in the fall and winter months (for the following spring’s crop) when the day length is relatively short, about 12 hours. Everbearing cultivars initiate flower buds as the spring bearers, but also initiate buds for a fall crop.
Day-neutral cultivars can initiate flower buds during any day length. Flower buds will continue to develop as long as the temperatures are not too hot or too cold.
The problem with the old everbearing types and the new day-neutrals is that they produce lower yield overall than spring bearers, and most suffer greatly in the Texas heat. In time, new cultivars may emerge which will prove to be dependable producers in our area. Until then, they are not recommended.
Plants can be difficult to find in local garden centers during the fall season, and may have to be mail ordered.
The following spring bearing berries are recommended for Travis County.
|Variety||Evaluated by Texas A&M Plant Trials?||Description|
|Chandler||Y||Vigorous, productive plant with large to medium-sized fruit. The berries are conical to wedge shaped with medium, red, glossy finish. The fruit quality is excellent, and produces high yields.|
|Festival||Y||Acceptable yields of firm, attractive, and flavorful fruit. Selected as a “Texas Superstar” plant.|
|Sequoia||N||Very adaptable variety that has been around a long time. Production is similar to the varieties above though fruit is smaller. This variety produces a deep red color signaling that it is ripe. An ideal home garden variety, the berry turns from firm to soft when it is ready to be picked.|
|Benicia||Y||Mild flavor and excellent shape. It has good early potential for yield|
|Camino Real||Y||Similar to ‘Camarosa’ but later in production and berries are externally and internally darker.|
|Camarosa||Y||It is widely adapted to many growing regions. It has larger and firmer fruit than ‘Chandler’. Berries are very flat and conical.|
|Douglas||Y||Was the leading commercial variety in Texas prior to ‘Chandler’. It is a versatile plant that produces good crops of quality fruit, which are a bit smaller than ‘Chandler’ and typically has nice amber-yellow achenes.|
|Oso Grande||Y||Very large, firm berry with high yields. Fruit color and flavor tend to be variable, but fruit are usually conic to wedge shaped with a distinctively rounded tip.|
|Radiance||Y||Large conical berries early in the fall and even during the winter months. However, plants may be susceptible to damage in high wind regions, and can be susceptible to crown rots.|
|Seascape||Y||Produces a more vigorous plant with darker foliage than ‘Chandler’ production is a bit less, but it has larger fruit. The vigorous plants are virus resistant and thrive in a wide range of growing conditions. The bright red fruit are firm, conical, and have an attractive glossy finish with excellent flavor.|
For more information on varieties, download the free electronic version of Production Guide For Texas Grown Strawberries from the AgriLife bookstore.
A number of insects, diseases and animals (four legged and two legged!) attack strawberries. Planting healthy, disease-free plants is the first step to avoiding a host of problems. Leaf spots can be a problem especially following rainy weather, while there are sprays to combat these diseases damage is usually not significant enough to warrant spraying. In the annual planting system, leaf spot problems usually do not have time to reach levels warranting spraying. Fruit rots are a significant problem during wet weather. Since strawberries ripen from February to May in our area, wet conditions are quite prevalent during harvest. Plastic mulch and discarding affected fruit promptly after a rain can reduce the incidence of these diseases.
Mites can quickly build up to damaging numbers on strawberries. Because they feed on the underside of leaves, it is difficult to direct sprays to reach them. Once again in the annual system the cool weather from planting to harvest greatly diminishes mite problems. When their numbers do build up the season is usually about over and sprays are unnecessary.
Birds love strawberries as much as you do. To add insult to injury, they prefer to take a sample peck out of a fruit and leave you the rest! Unless you have a very hard working, cooperative cat (an oxymoron), birds will be difficult to control. Scare tactics like pie tins, streamers, etc. work for awhile but soon become just part of the scenery. Some gardeners have had good results by stretching monofilament fishing line over the patch in a crosshatched pattern. The lines are strung about 1 foot above the ground, greatly disturbing incoming birds which have difficulty seeing them. Try it and see if it works for you.
Strawberries make excellent groundcover plants for borders and flower beds. Almost anyplace with good drainage that receives good sunlight will do. Just remember that they are picky about what type of soil they want.
Strawberry can also be grown in containers such as flower pots, half whiskey barrels, and barrels require less space than terraced beds. Containers should be at least 4 or 5 gallons in size or growth and production will be minimal and the need for frequent watering greatly increased.
Special terra cotta planters know as strawberry pots are also available. They have been designed with holes around the sides for planting strawberries. However the small soil volume seldom produces many berries. These containers dry out quickly and must be watered daily, especially during warm weather.
Growing strawberries in Austin requires some additional effort to prepare the soil and you’ll have to replant every year. But after one bite, it’s totally worth it.
Day-neutral strawberries are also called ever-bearing. Three well-known varieties are rated to perform well in USDA zone 9. The Fern strawberry produces firm, sweet berries. It makes a good ground cover and can do well in containers. Large and sweet Sequoia strawberries are considered short-day in some climates, but in mild zones, such as 9, they are ever-bearing. Sequoias have very good resistance to powdery mildew, a nemesis for many strawberry plants. Hecker strawberries are small to medium with a deep red color. They work well as a border plant or ground cover and produce copious amounts of berries, making them a candidate for commercial consideration.
There are 3 critical mistakes that many gardeners make when growing strawberries. Let’s take a look at these shall we?
I talk about the importance of removing runners in my article Follow This One Tip In Your Garden and Get a Ton of Organic Strawberries.
So I am not going to get into the nitty-gritty here, but do know that the central plant (or the mother plant) creates runners which then will create daughter plants.
Here is what a daughter plant looks like.
Energy is taken from the mother plant to produce these daughter plants and this will in turn produce fewer strawberries.
This is why you want to remove the runners. Do note that you can successfully have 3 daughter plants to 1 mother without affecting the productivity of the plant.
Crown?? What is a crown you ask? Good question. Let’s take a closer look at the picture I posted at the top of this post.
The crown is the base of the plant as shown in this picture. It is very important to leave some of the plant (or the crown) exposed out of the soil.
If you cover the crown, the plant will eventually rot and will die. So do pay close attention when planting your strawberry plant, and be sure to check out the video from Bonnie Plants below to get a good visual on how this is done.
Finally, it is super important to mulch around the strawberry plant. Do not miss this critical step. Strawberries like moist soil and mulching protect the plants roots and creates a super healthy plant.
An important thing to remember is that different mulches may work better in your area. For example, I live in the deep south now and we have slugs and slugs are attracted to straw, so that might not be the best fit for me.
I might use mulch like this (pictured below) or you can also use broken up leaves for thick coverage.
So here is a terrific video from Bonnie Plants showing you just how easy it is to grow strawberries!
Halle Cottis/Whole Lifestyle Nutrition is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
I’ve been having one issue on every attempt I’ve made to grow strawberries! I get holes in the fruit. An insect or bird makes a hole, sometimes it looks like a bite, out of almost each berry that grows. I’ve never seen any insects around them, apart from the occasional ant. I’ve planted them in a pot to keep them off the ground same result. I’ve mulched, I’ve not mulched. I’m currently using pine needles and leaves as mulch, after a hopeful first few weeks, suddenly the holes were back! What on earth is causing this and how can I avoid it? I live in Alberta, Canada, zone 3.
I’m not sure about the perpetrator, but try sprinkling powdered cayenne pepper around the plants. I find that it repels a lot of animal and insect pests.
Orietta Shimansky says
it may be bunnies. Also I leave my dogs poop (in a bag) around my garden and that seems to help, gross, I know…
When seeing the daughter plants, should you plant it in soil to root before cutting it away from the mother plant?
Halle Cottis says
If you are wanting to plant them right next to the mother, then yes…root them in the soil. If you want them in another spot, I’d cut from the mother and place into some soil where you want them to grow.
My yard is done in rock for decoration, how would i go about making a successful strawberry garden with rock instead of mulch?
I planted strawberries past summer and although to my joy they sprouted and gave out little shoots but after the first true leaves they have not grown at all I water them put coffee grounds as well but nope not growing can u tell me why. I live in LA,CA
How deep does soil have to be for strawberries. I want to make a strawberry bed on top of my chicken coop.
Thank you so much.
My strawberry plants look beautiful and have lots of blossoms, but the strawberries are super tiny. This is the second year this has happened and I can’t understand why they are so tiny. I have mason bees close by and had lots of honey bees in our orchard, which is also close by. The strawberries are planted in a raised bed with good soil. The ph is in the range that strawberries prefer. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thank you!
Darlene Pesina says
Why does my plant look like twigs sprotting out i do see pink white fur like in the middle did i plant backwards?
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Before getting to the secrets, a few preliminaries are in order. There are some key decisions that have to be made prior to planting strawberry plants. You need to know which of the main types of strawberries you want to plant…
June-bearers are the most popular. Most of the commercially available cultivars are of this type. They produce a very large crop of very large fruits over the course of two to three weeks. There may be a few stragglers here and there, but they typically put out a big harvest and then stop. These are the berries you buy in the store.
Everbearers typically produce smaller berries than do the June-bearing types of strawberry plants, but they produce a main crop at the beginning of the season and again at the end of the growing season. Overall, however, they will produce a smaller overall yield, on average, than the aforementioned June-bearers.
Day-neutral strawberries produce small fruits continually throughout the growing season. The major benefit of these plants is the fact that you can walk out to your patch on any given day and find a few ripe strawberries ready to be picked. However, the major drawback is that there won’t be a whole lot of them. While day-neutrals are typically chosen by indoor hydroponic strawberry growing operations, you will end up with a noticeably smaller yield than June-bearers, and significantly less overall harvest than the everbearers as well. If you aren’t specifically choosing this third type for a predetermined reason, go with one of the other two.
Once you have landed on which type of strawberry plant you want to grow, you can either buy some plants from a local nursery or order them online. The varieties offered by your local nursery will likely be well-suited for your area. If you choose the ease and convenience of having them arrive at your door by ordering online, you can choose your variety and price shop for the best deals quickly and easily in this directory. If you need help choosing a suitable variety for your location, you can find your state and choose an appropriate variety from this list.
As a bare minimum, 6 or 7 plants are needed to provide an individual with enough strawberries to make the effort of planting and cultivation worthwhile. A family of 5 should look to procure between 30 and 35 plants in order to enjoy a sufficient quantity of fresh fruit. And, if you are planning on canning or making strawberry jam or other preserves, doubling the number of plants to 60 or more is necessary.
Strawberries are remarkably resilient. They can survive in many spots you wouldn’t think possible. To get the best results, though, there are some basics you should know. Now, on to the secrets of growing organic strawberries!
Strawberry plants have a higher relative nitrogen demand in the early spring and late fall. In early spring the plants are going through a highly energy-demanding period as they produce their strawberries and put out strawberry runners. Even if the runners are removed (see below!), nitrogen can run low quite quickly in organic strawberry beds. Using conventional methods, chemical fertilizers with nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are easily added to buoy the needed nutrients and keep the berries coming. But, for the devotee of organic methods using the NPK chemical fertilizers is not an option. So, the first secret to growing loads of organic strawberries is to successfully keep nitrogen levels up in your berry planting.
To maintain productivity and nitrogen levels, you’ll need to use organic fertilizers. Blood meal is a good option as it has 13% nitrogen. Other organic sources of nitrogen include fish meal, soy meal, and alfalfa meal. Feather meal is also a good source of nitrogen at 15%, but has very slow release rates. Aged manure is also a good source of nitrogen, but you have to be careful to not supply too much nitrogen to your strawberries as that can cause excess vegetative producti0n and fewer berries. Too much nitrogen can kill/burn up strawberries, however, so do not put raw, fresh chicken manure on strawberries (or any other extremely nitrogen-rich material).
Organic farmers typically tremble when they hear the name of agriculture giant Monsanto: either with fear or anger or both. So, naturally (pun intended!), herbicides such as Roundup are anathema to those wishing to do things organically. Skipping out on those weed poisons ensures that the produce you pluck will be pure and free from potentially harmful molecules when you consume them. But, that means the weeds will sprout and mock you mercilessly.
The second secret of a prolific organic strawberry garden is to develop a habit of diligence when it comes to pulling weeds. Hand-pulling is the first resort of most non-chemical growers. Developing a schedule and sticking to it is important in the fight against unwanted growth. Shallow cultivation can also be successfully utilized. But, without chemical herbicides, if you want to haul in loads of fruit come harvest, it is absolutely essential that you keep on top of the weeds. There is an organic herbicide labeled for use with growing strawberries called GreenMatch Ex, but its use alone will not be sufficient to completely control the weeds. So, get your gardening gloves ready to go and pluck those weeds as soon as they show their ugly little heads.
Just as weeds are a particularly painful problem in organic strawberry beds, pests and pathogens can be particularly prickly as well. There is an abundance of potent poisons available to send such scourges to purgatory, but who wants to eat those residues? The secret to maintaining organic integrity while harvesting a healthy hoard is three-fold.
Avoid Problem Areas
Plant only disease-free, healthy plants in soils with good drainage and air circulation. Keep your plantings away from areas that may harbor large populations of mites or microbes detrimental to your strawberries. Managing weeds is also important as they can provide habitat for and harbor problem organisms as well. Mulching heavily underneath the leaves of your plants is also important. Soil, by its very nature, is home to legions of microbes. In many strawberry plantings, rain droplets splashing into dirt and thereby sending droplets of pathogen-infected wet mud up onto the vegetative components are the cause of disease and death. A heavy layer of mulch avoids this common problem.
Fungi species and many parasites find happy homes in the dead or decaying leaves that fall from strawberry plants over the course of their lives. Being vigilant to remove any dead or decaying plant matter from your beds will help minimize problems. While virtually impossible to completely eradicate even with conventional methods, strawberry pathogens can also be deterred by the use of diatomaceous earth. Frequent applications can reduce mite and other arthropod numbers by creating an inhospitable environment. Biopesticides like Serenade are also available, but are insufficient to eradicate pests as well. Managing them, however, is a critical secret for success.
Protecting your garden is also quite important. The primary way of protecting against the microscopic predators is through variety selection. If you live in a region that is wetter then most, be sure to select a variety that has at least some resistance to powdery mildew and other wet-loving fungi. Don’t over-fertilize with nitrogen as many pests will be attracted to all the succulent tissues that come with too much nitrogen. And, of course, keep the fruit off the ground by mulching well and picking the fruit as soon as it is ripe. Remove any rotting fruit immediately! Bird netting or fencing of some sort is also a good idea to keep out the bigger pests like squirrels, birds, and rabbits.
This last secret is a general secret for all types of strawberry growing, not necessarily just organic growers. But, with the added difficulties of foregoing the powerful conventional chemicals, it is even more vital for the organic grower. Simply put, you have to remove the runners. As you weed your garden regularly, keep a keen eye out for your plants’ attempts to clone themselves. When they put out runners, use your fingernails, scissors, or pruning shears to snip off the runners as soon as they can be identified.
Strawberry plants will spend themselves in their reproductive efforts. It is critical to guide your plants in the way you want them to be productive. Some strawberry plants will produce dozens of cloned daughter plants if left to themselves. All of those runners means energy is diverted away from producing strawberries, which is why you planted them in the first place! So, be sure to watch for the production of strawberry runners and sever them as soon as possible. The plants will respond by devoting more productive energy to developing those loads of organic strawberries I promised!
There are some good reasons to let a few runners develop as well, however. For more on that, be sure to read up on strawberry runners.
***And, if these 4 secrets have helped you prepare for your best garden ever, consider doing your friends and StrawberryPlants.org a favor by sharing this article with others using the buttons at the top.***
Enjoy the fruits of your labor, and good luck!