How to plant horseradish in the garden: practical tips for growing

A perennial horseradish plant is a permanent inhabitant of garden plots. Growing horseradish in the country and caring for it is a simple process. The plant is independent in spreading without measure. Decorating any dish or pickling, horseradish is full of vitamin C, calcium salts, sodium, and also contains mustard and allyl oil. With proper care, the plant will delight with beautiful leaves and a fleshy root. Cold hardy, the seedlings are ready for planting both in early spring and late autumn.

Where is the best place to plant?

Planting horseradish does not require any special preparations, at least not more than any other plant. Try to choose a place where nothing has grown before or where early maturing crops grew. Beds of potatoes, beets, tomatoes, cucumbers are suitable.

The culture is unpretentious to the soil, but it is worth choosing a place on a site with loamy soil or drained peat bogs. Before planting, you need to properly prepare the soil. There are different methods of preparing the soil for the future shitty plantation. In one of them, you will need 6-8 kg of humus, 2 tbsp. spoons of nitrophoska, 3 tbsp. spoons of wood ash. All this must be mixed, dug up, diluted with water, and then the roots must be prepared for planting.

Another “recipe” is applied in the fall. 5-10 kg of manure, 70-100 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium chloride are imported to the selected site. Remember: the thicker the prepared soil layer, the better the horseradish will grow.

Video "On the method of growing horseradish in a barrel"

Informational video with an interesting proposal for planting and growing a plant in a barrel.

Planting in the garden

The cultivation of this crop requires preliminary seed preparation. Before planting seedlings, you need to take them out into the light for 35-40 days in order to awaken the buds. Cover the middle of the spines with tape and place in a warm place. Thus, many lateral roots are not formed and the plant will grow strong and powerful.

The roots sprouting from the seeds should be sorted out - it is better to put small roots into cooking, and cut large ones, 15-20 cm long. An incision is made from above - cutting off the top to make a ring, and from below - obliquely. So it will be more convenient to disassemble where is the top and where is the bottom of the horseradish. Next, the selected roots are wiped with a hard cloth or glove to remove small shoots, thereby controlling the reproduction of the culture.

In the spring, approximately in the second half of April, the cuttings are placed in the ground at an inclination of 30-40 °. Make sure that the distance between the roots is 20-30 cm, and between the beds - about 60 cm. Sprinkle the upper end of the cutting with earth and stamp it with your foot, creating a tight contact with the ground. Remember that this culture does not like shading, so do not allow close proximity to densely growing fruit or berry plants. Best planted outdoors. By correctly planting seedlings on the site, you will receive a first-class product at home. In addition, transplanting this plant is a chore.

Growing and care

Caring for a plant is not difficult - it is extremely unpretentious. Water the plants regularly, do a thorough weeding, and loosen the soil between the beds. In the spring and summer, feed the plants with a mixture of urea, superphosphate, potassium chloride fertilizers - this will help propagate large, fleshy roots.

Another way to get thick roots is to remove the roots and cut the leaves. The ideal month is July, when the deciduous part grows to 18-20 cm. Carefully expose the upper part of the root, cut off all the shoots, and then carefully return the soil back and water the beds well.

Include pest control in plantation care. Babanukha willingly reproduces in the garden next to horseradish to huge populations. Insects eat away the leaves and rhizome of the plant. It is easy to destroy them, but you will have to do the rescue procedures several times per season. Prepare a warm mustard-pepper solution, in a ratio of 100 g of hot spices to 1 bucket of water.

Spray the leaves in the garden beds generously until the insects are completely eliminated. This will help you grow a good crop. When can you dig up horseradish? At the end of October, the rhizomes are already formed enough to send them to cooking.

How to limit horseradish

Care for the beds should be started long before planting the roots. The entire preparatory process takes place at home, without requiring special skills. There are several ways to isolate the horseradish growing area from the rest of the vegetation:

  • old slate is suitable, which is cut into narrow strips, and then dug into the ground;
  • before preparing the ground, the pit is lined with roofing material or linoleum;
  • the least expensive option is plastic bottles, which are dug in with their neck down by 20-30 cm, tamp them well, sprinkle them with earth on top to make a neat fence;
  • an elegant way is to plant horseradish in a barrel, small buckets or boils are suitable, where cuttings are planted, this method will greatly facilitate the care of the plants and prevent them from growing into neighboring beds.

Planted and carefully grown horseradish will thank you for your care and work with a rich harvest.

Video "Useful information about horseradish for gardeners"

In this video, an expert shares his knowledge of this wonderful root vegetable.

Councils for growing tomatoes. Question answer.

Hello dear gardeners and gardeners.

My readers often ask me questions about growing tomatoes in the comments. They are worried about such moments as: "leaves curl", "flowers fall", etc., which further affects the formation of plants, inflorescences, the number of fruit set, which means the quality and quantity of the harvest.

In this article, I will answer the most frequent questions from readers and give you practical advice on growing tomatoes on a plot or in a greenhouse.

Question 1: The upper leaves of tomatoes are constantly curled, but the plant itself is powerful, has thick stems, juicy, large green leaves.

Answer: In this case, experienced gardeners say: "The plant is fattening" - it means everything goes to the green - the vegetative mass. Such tomatoes will not yield a harvest. They usually have a weak flower raceme, and the number of flowers on it is small. The reason for this trouble is usually abundant watering and too large doses of nitrogen and organic fertilizers. Lack of illumination of plants can also lead to a similar phenomenon. Most often, all these moments are present together.

  1. First of all, you need to stop watering these plants for 8 to 10 days.
  2. If your tomatoes are grown in a greenhouse, then during the day the temperature should be increased to 25 - 26 degrees, and the night temperature should be brought closer to 22 - 24 degrees.
  3. It is necessary to correctly pollinate tomato flowers by shaking the flower brushes by hand from 11 to 13 o'clock, in warm weather.
  4. Make root feeding for growth retardation: you need to take 3 tablespoons of superphosphate per 10 liters of water. The consumption of this top dressing is 1 liter for each bush.

Question 2: My tomatoes in the greenhouse have leaves pointing upwards at an acute angle. They do not twist during the day and at night, and small fruits and flowers often fall off.

Answer: The reason here most likely lies in dry soil, elevated temperature in the greenhouse, low light and poor ventilation. "Plants choke."

  1. Water the plants urgently!
  2. Organize regular ventilation in the greenhouse and reduce the temperature in it. Under normal conditions, in normally developing plants, the upper leaves should curl slightly during the day and straighten out at night. There should be a lot of flowers in the flower cluster, the flowers should not fall off, they should be large, their color should be bright yellow. These signs indicate that the plant has everything it needs for normal growth: nutrition, light, etc. With such bushes and the harvest will be wonderful.

Question 3: I grow tomatoes and cannot understand why excellent large fruits are poured on the first brush of my tomatoes, and on the second and third - the filling is very slow?

  1. In this case, you need to remove the fruits from the first brush as early as possible, still brown, without waiting for redness. These fruits will ripen quickly on a windowsill, illuminated by the sun.
  2. Immediately after removing the fruits from the first brush, you need to thoroughly shed the soil with water.
  3. Leaves and stepchildren do not need to be cut off, and the temperature in the greenhouse should be reduced to 16 - 17 degrees by opening windows and doors, especially at night. In such conditions, on subsequent brushes, a crop is quickly formed and ripens at an earlier date.

Always remember that tomatoes are the most photophilous crop. Therefore, the main tomato growing advice: "Provide enough light for your green pets!" and they will thank you with juicy and sweet fruits.

All the best and best to you, dear friends!

How to grow horseradish

Hello dear readers!

The topic of today's article is about how to grow horseradish, take care and store in winter.

Horseradish is a perennial plant. It is resistant to light frost. Its roots contain mustard and allyl essential oils, which give them a pungent taste. Horseradish contains a lot of vitamin C, calcium salts, sodium, potassium and other useful substances.

Horseradish propagates vegetatively, i.e. parts of the roots.

It is necessary to grow horseradish on fertile soils, since on heavy clay soils, its roots are very bitter and woody.

The soil for planting horseradish is prepared as follows. 6 - 8 kilograms of humus are applied to the selected bed, 1 - 2 tbsp. spoons of nitrophoska, 2 - 3 tbsp. spoons of other ash per 1 square meter. Then they dig it deeply, water it and start planting.

Long roots can be cut into pieces. It is best to use finger-thick and 15 to 20 centimeters long pieces of roots for planting. But you can take shorter cuttings of roots, from 5 to 8 centimeters long. The best time to plant horseradish is the second half of April, but horseradish can be planted both in summer and autumn. Horseradish does not like strong shading, but it is permissible to plant it among not very often planted fruit and berry crops. On 1 square meter, 4-6 plants are usually planted at a distance of 40-45 centimeters from each other. Root cuttings are planted obliquely, observing an angle of 45 degrees, so that the lower part of the root is 12 to 15 centimeters in the ground, and the upper one protrudes 3 to 5 centimeters above the surface.

To get smooth, even horseradish roots, I usually, before planting, remove the buds in the middle of the cutting, rubbing them with burlap. I leave only the buds at the upper (1 - 1.5 centimeters) and lower (2 - 3 centimeters) ends of the cutting. The roots grow from the lower ones, and the leaves grow from the upper ones.

To obtain straight rhizomes, I use another method. When the leaves grow up to 15 - 18 centimeters, I carefully scrape off the soil from the root and, exposing it, break off all the side cuttings and wipe it with a coarse cloth. After that, I again cover the root with soil. This operation must be done in cloudy weather or in the evening. The root will grow even and large.

Horseradish, although an unpretentious plant, needs weeding, watering and loosening the row spacing.

Horseradish is usually harvested in late autumn. You can dig in the roots for storage in the ground or store in the basement in boxes with wet sand at a temperature of +5 (+6) degrees and humidity up to 75 percent.

The article says how to grow horseradish in the Middle Volga region and similar climatic zones. In other regions, planting times and cultivation methods may differ from the above.

Reproduction of a cage is a special topic. All questions must be approached carefully. Most often, gardeners use the seed method or cuttings.

Planting material for seed propagation of the cage can be harvested in the fall.

Growing a cage from seeds is as follows:

  1. You can start sowing in December. The planting material is first soaked for at least 24 hours, but it is better to keep it for 2-3 days.
  2. Then the seeds are buried in the soil in the greenhouse.
  3. The first shoots appear in about 2-3 weeks.
  4. The seedlings are transferred to a permanent place of growth in the spring.

Pay attention to the composition of the soil and the place on the site where the cage is supposed to be planted.

Soil and place

Cletra does not tolerate transplants very well, the plant does not take root well. That is why you need to carefully choose a place for its cultivation, so that in the future you do not have to transplant a shrub.

It is best to start planting in the spring - in May. The plant thrives on wetlands and in the shade.

Kletra will decorate places where other flowers do not take root. As for the soil, the shrub loves acidic soils.

Pruning and wintering

Pruning shrubs or trees is optional.

However, regular pruning is recommended to keep the plant looking neat and beautiful.

You also need to remove old branches and frozen shoots.

The cage hibernates well, it is not afraid of the cold.

Experienced gardeners still recommend covering young plants for the winter.

So the seedlings will be protected from frost and winter well, without freezing.

Diseases and pests

Most often, the plant suffers from the following diseases:

  • Late blight is a fungal disease that spreads quickly in high humidity. It can be identified by drooping and dried branches, as well as gray spots on leaves and branches.

For the treatment of plants, a 1% solution of copper sulfate is used, and also treated with Fundazol. In this case, all affected areas of the plant must be removed.

  • Powdery mildew - easily recognizable by light spots on leaves and stems. The affected branches are removed, the plant is sprayed with preparations containing copper or sulfur
  • Viral infection - it is determined by the changed color of the processes or inflorescences, which can also begin to deform. Treatment consists in removing infected shoots and burning them.

Most often, the cage suffers from the scabbard pest. For the prevention and control of the pest, the shrubs are sprayed with a solution using laundry soap.

Features of planting hyacinths in open ground in spring and autumn

Gardeners who successfully grow bulbous primroses often react with bewilderment to information that it is possible to plant hyacinth in open ground in spring.

This reaction is due to the fact that the classic planting of such crops is in the fall. However, not everything is so simple.

Hyacinths in industrial floriculture for the winter and spring celebrations - Christmas, March 8 - are driven out for sale in bloom.

An exquisite gift that has fallen into a house where there is no interest in growing flowers, and hyacinths in particular, in a garden plot or a home windowsill, will go to the trash can after wilting.

But, falling into the hands of an experienced grower, the flower will delight for many more years. Someone will plant the hyacinth after flowering in a new pot, keeping it under appropriate resting conditions in a warm, dry place. And someone immediately, in the spring, will take the bulb to the country and plant it in a flowerbed with primroses.

To do this, the wilted drooping peduncle is cut off at the base, watering is reduced and the foliage is waited for, dry up. Only in this state, the bulb is pulled out, the above-ground part is cut off and planted in the ground according to the rules.

Therefore, planting hyacinths in autumn and spring is a normal phenomenon, depending only on the time of appearance on the farm.

Crocosmia in landscape design

Montbrecia is actively used in landscape design. These bright flowers will decorate the site in summer and autumn.

Many designers advise planting flowers of montbrecia both as individual plants and in flower arrangements.

Japanese gladioli look beautiful against the background of bright green grass. This unique plant can be combined with all other flowers.

Combination with other plants

Crocosmias look especially impressive when combined with flowers such as chrysanthemums and dahlias.

Flowers are used to decorate ponds in personal plots, as well as in mixborders.

Montbrecia can be planted next to any plants - it will always look colorful, elegant, and will attract the attention of all guests!

20 best tips for growing seedlings

Spring is approaching, which means it's time to think about growing seedlings of heat-loving crops. We have collected for you the most useful and versatile tips to help you avoid mistakes and get a rich harvest.

Even in the off-season, backyard owners have plenty to do. For example, start growing seedlings. It's not always easy, but our tips are designed to help you lay a healthy and strong foundation for your future harvest.

1. Buying seedlings is not always a good option.

Of course, the easiest way is to purchase ready-made seedlings that can be planted at any convenient time. However, it is worth remembering that the choice of varieties of purchased plants is much more modest than seeds. And if you want to try some new or rare variety, it is better to play it safe and grow the seedlings yourself.

2. Buy seeds wisely

Now all kinds of online stores have become very popular, offering a huge amount of seeds for every taste. Of course, you can buy them in local stores and supermarkets, but the selection of seeds from catalogs of online stores will always be incomparably higher than the one that retail outlets are ready to offer.

3. Keep records

Write down everything related to sowing seeds and growing seedlings, keep a "diary" in which you note important milestones in their development. This will avoid common mistakes in the future. In your notes, note where and when you purchased the seeds, the time of their germination, the percentage of germination, the time of appearance of cotyledons and true leaves, the number of days it took to grow the seedlings, the time for planting it in a permanent place.

4. Store your seeds correctly

Seeds are a very delicate material, if stored incorrectly, then their viability is sharply reduced. Store seeds in a cool, dark place with low humidity, such as a refrigerator. It is more rational to use last year's seeds this season and at the same time purchase new ones as a reserve for next year. Seeds that are rare or especially expensive should be kept in airtight containers in the refrigerator.

5. Choose the right container

Seeds are best grown in wide, shallow containers so they don't interfere with each other's germination. In addition, plastic containers are better than clay pots for growing plants in the early stages, since plastic holds moisture more effectively than clay. Plastic trays can be purchased from specialized stores or you can use the following containers:

  • old plastic food containers, including those with lids
  • plastic cups
  • eggshells (with the obligatory transplantation of the whole improvised "pot" in the spring)
  • seedling trays or cassettes
  • peat tablets
  • cardboard boxes for juice or dairy products.

Before sowing, make sure there are drainage holes in the bottom of the container. Any container must be thoroughly washed and decontaminated. For complete disinfection, soak it in a 10% bleach solution for no more than 15 minutes, then let it dry in the fresh air.

6. Use a special potting mix

The soil taken from the nearest plot is not suitable for growing seedlings. In order for the seedlings to grow and develop well, you need to prepare or purchase a special substrate. After all, seeds at the growth stage need not only moisture, air and heat, but also several auxiliary elements. The latter include: vermiculite, moss, or their mixture with the addition of perlite. These mixtures are sold ready-made, but you can make them yourself.

7. Seed to Optimum Depth

Very small seeds and those that germinate in the light should be sown on top of the soil. All others need to be sprinkled with soil. The seeding depth of seeds depends on their size - the larger they are, the deeper they need to be sown.

8. Don't overdo it with watering

Remember, the soil in containers can only be watered before sowing the seeds. If done afterwards, the seeds can go deep into the ground or sink to the bottom of the container. In this case, the chances of their germination will be small.

9. Use shortcuts

There is nothing worse than a huge number of seedlings that begin to grow at the same time, and you can no longer remember what you sowed where. Take some time to mark the crops by inserting small captions next to them. You can use popsicle sticks, special labels, or cut up plastic cups and write the names of plants and varieties on them with a marker. Do this even if it seems to you that you remember everything and will not forget.

10. Mulch crops

Mulching the soil in containers with sphagnum moss, marble chips, chopped straw and other materials will help keep the soil surface moderately moist, preventing the growth and reproduction of pathogenic microorganisms-bacteria.

11. Maintain the correct humidity level

Seedlings are very sensitive to both watering and moisture levels in general. Impermeable plastic helps maintain optimal moisture levels. However, check the soil in the containers every day. From time to time, you can place containers in a bathroom filled with 5-7 cm of water.

It is recommended to remove the lid from the container when the seeds have germinated enough that the sprouts appear above the soil surface. But do it gradually - the sudden transition from a humid environment to a dry one can kill the plants. After all, a container with a lid actually plays the role of a terrarium for young plantings.

12. Place containers with crops in a warm place

For seeds to sprout faster, place containers on a sunny window, next to a heater or stove. Any additional heat source will encourage their germination. Watch out for watering, because at elevated temperatures, the flow rate increases. Read the instructions on the seed package - some plants, on the contrary, need coolness, not tropical heat. And remember that the first, "cotyledon leaves" are not yet fully formed processes.

13. Rotate containers every day

The advice is universal for seedlings and indoor plants in general. The first shoots must receive an even amount of light, otherwise they will begin to stretch. Now on sale there are special containers with lighting that simulate sunlight. These "smart pots" regulate the direction and intensity of the light themselves.

14. Don't forget about additional lighting

It is necessary during the period when seedlings appear. Seedlings grown in low light conditions will be long, thin and weak. Additional lighting (up to 12-16 hours a day) is needed for crops sown early (February).

15. Dive in time ...

When the first true leaves appear on the seedlings, you can start picking. Transplant the plants into separate containers very carefully so as not to damage them. Seedlings need space for roots. To grow, she needs "personal space", her own container, and not "neighborhood" with a dozen other plants.

16. ... and rightly so

First, prepare new containers and soil. The soil that was used for the initial growth will no longer work. The rest of the nutrients will be obtained from the "new" soil. Carefully remove them with a lump of earth using a special picking tool, a regular fork or a teaspoon. Transfer to a larger container filled with nutrient medium. Water well.

17. Do not feed immediately

The seedlings will not need any fertilization for several weeks after germination. In the future, they need to be fed 2-3 times before planting in the ground.

18. Let the seedlings get used to the outdoors

The seedlings should be accustomed to open ground conditions gradually, without haste. Plants need to get used to the outdoor environment. The containers should be taken out on warm spring days, leaving them for several hours and exposing them to the sun, gradually increasing the time spent in the fresh air. This is called seedling hardening. It takes about a week, but in any case, remember to take the containers of plants to the house at night.

19. Perfect landing day

Outside the window is a warm and sunny day. It seems that both you and the plants are impatient to be on the street as soon as possible. Do you need to plant plants on a day like this? The answer is no. The ideal day for planting seedlings is cloudy and slightly damp. After transplanting, you need to lightly water each seedling, and when the water is absorbed, mulch.

Make sure the frost in your area is clear and the soil is warmed up. If in your region cold weather is not uncommon in spring, then it is better to postpone planting a little than to ruin the seedlings.

20. Use a plant protection shelter

Nursery seedlings are usually hardened and do not have problems when transplanted into the ground. They don't need additional protection. However, "home" seedlings need light protection from the weather, at least in the first days.

To do this, place arcs over the bed and throw a film or non-woven material (spunbond, lutrasil, etc.) over them.

Welcome spring fully armed. Grow and plant seedlings correctly, and our tips will help you with this.

How to plant horseradish in the garden: practical tips for growing


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