Prolongation of fruiting cucumbers, harvesting


← Read part 2. Formation and feeding of cucumber plants

"Cucumber Encyclopedia". Part 3

How to extend the supply of fresh cucumbers in late summer - early autumn?

1. Form cucumbers on a vertical trellis: for this, the shoots are vertically tied to the supports located in the upper part of the greenhouse and should be distributed in such a way that the top of any shoot is always as illuminated as possible. The lack of light reaching the top of the plant is one of the reasons for the sterility of the pollen of future flowers. As a result, such flowers will not give cucumbers.

When the lashes reach the upper part of the support for further growth, they are directed vertically down, and in no case along the horizontally located support of the greenhouse.


2. Stimulate the growth of new shoots and leaves with ovaries. To do this, you should regularly cut out all yellowed leaves, as well as those leaves that are located below the fruiting zone. In this case, the leaves should be cut not until the first greenery, but a little less, leaving 2-3 leaves before it. The leaves in the fruiting part of the whip do not bring absolutely any benefit, at the same time absorbing their share of nutrients and creating unnecessary shade. In addition, they prevent the resumption of fruiting in this part of the lash.

3. With all your might, fight against numerous cucumber ailmentsusing both immunomodulators (immunocytophyte) and biological products such as trichodermin and rhizoplan, as well as preventive measures, such as watering only with warm water around the plant, and not in the zone of the root collar; combating excessive moisture (scattering ash between plants, installing containers with quicklime, dusting the root collar zone with crushed charcoal, regular ventilation). Stimulants (epin, silk) will also help.

4. Pest control (usually spider mite and aphids) if they appear. The most effective and safest way to combat it is Fitoverm. Usually one spraying is enough and the cucumbers will come to life again. In case of severe damage, it should be sprayed twice. Before spraying, leaves with a very strong degree of damage must be removed and burned.

5. Adequate plant nutrition. It is worth paying particular attention to the fact that cucumbers, on the one hand, due to the creation of a powerful leaf apparatus, require considerable doses nitrogen fertilizers (therefore, regular feeding with mullein is necessary). On the other hand, due to our climatic conditions, plants require increased doses of potassium fertilizers (therefore, from the end of June, and sometimes from the beginning of July, weekly fertilizing with potassium sulfate and ash is needed). When feeding potassium sulfate, you need to remember that in sunny weather it is required less, and in damp and cloudy weather - more. Moreover, it should be borne in mind that fertilizers do not need to be applied all at once, but fed in small doses once a week, otherwise you will only get the opposite effect. In addition, of course, constant feeding with small doses of complex fertilizers is also needed, always with boron and magnesium.



And if the fruits still do not set?

Of course, initially cucumbers, like all other melons, belonged to bee-pollinated plants. But with bees and their substitutes, things are not as good now as they were in the 19th century or even in the middle of the 20th century. It is no coincidence that, therefore, back in the middle of the last century, the first cucumber hybrids that did not require pollination were created. And it was a real revolution. And perhaps all this was due to parthenocarp (the formation of fruits without pollination) - an unusual property inherent in cucumber. This property was once discovered by Japanese and Chinese scientists, and later this knowledge was used by breeders.

And everything would seem to be fine. But there is one very significant "but". Even in strong parthenocarpics, the degree of manifestation of this property (i.e., the possibility of fruit formation without this very pollination) varies depending on the growing conditions. Primarily reduces parthenocarp:

  • lack of light, long cloudy weather;
  • overdrying the soil;
  • excess nitrogen fertilizers;
  • high air temperature in the greenhouse.

Therefore, although parthenocarpic cucumber hybrids are capable of setting fruits in the absence of pollination, spraying with fruit formation stimulants should not be neglected. Parthenocarp depends on the age of the plants and the order of branching. The ability to form fruit without pollination affects the lower nodes of the main stem to the least extent, and to a greater extent - in the middle and upper nodes of the stem, as well as on the lateral shoots. This factor also does not hurt to take into account when forming cucumber plants.

As practice shows, in our harsh conditions, it is quite difficult to fight with nature (high humidity, high temperature, temperature changes, etc.), and there are situations when it is completely useless.

This, of course, does not mean at all that everything should be left to chance, by no means. All of the above factors, of course, also need to be carefully monitored. But not all of us can change. Let us dwell on those moments to which you need to pay, as far as possible, your close attention.

1. Take all possible measures to maintain the optimum temperature. In our conditions, to raise the temperature in the spring, it is realistic to plant plants only on warm ridges, cover the soil with a film or covering material, use stone and bottle mulch (simply by laying out large stones or dark plastic bottles filled with water, which heat up during the day, and give your warmth to the plants). In the hot period, it is necessary to organize the maximum possible ventilation of greenhouses and hotbeds so that the temperature in them does not rise above 28 ... 29 ° C. Doors and vents must be open during the hot period.

2. As for the illumination, here it remains to choose for greenhouses and greenhouses the most illuminated area and form plants taking into account the available light space. This means that if there is an additional illuminated piece in the greenhouse, then you can leave the stepson you like the most in it, if not, then only its cardinal removal is possible. Moreover, for all greenhouse plants, without exception, it is true that their tops should be located exclusively in the light. Therefore, it is required by hook or by crook to extract them from the space they have chosen and direct them to the light. Otherwise, there will be no fruit on such tops later.

3. Provide timely and sufficient watering. This position, I think, does not require comment.

4.In order to reduce the high humidity in greenhouses and greenhouses (namely, increased, not low humidity, as a rule, occurs in our country), it is imperative to carry out intensive ventilation of greenhouses and greenhouses, even on completely gray and rainy days. Naturally, when it rains, you should have only one side of the greenhouse open and one of the greenhouse doors opposite to the one from which rain can enter the greenhouse. And in no case should the plants be watered in them in the evening, but in the daytime or even better in the morning, so that the moisture can be absorbed and the humidity of the air to decrease.

5. Constantly monitor the sufficiency of plant nutrition and immediately take timely measures at the slightest sign of lack of something. At the same time, one should not forget that all modern hybrids planted by us belong to crops of an intensive type, and, therefore, on the one hand, they require the introduction of constant increased doses of fertilizers, and, on the other hand, strictly fractional nutrition, i.e. fertilizing in parts, and not all at once. You need to remember yourself as an axiom: if you regularly feed, then many of the problems associated with pollination will disappear by themselves.

6. Conduct thorough prophylaxis against the appearance of diseases and pests.

7. Take possible measures to ensure pollination of plants. In watermelons, pumpkins, melons and squash, this is hand pollination. Cucumbers have self-pollinated hybrids. And the most important thing, and this applies to all of the above crops, without exception, is spraying them with fruit-forming stimulants. Therefore, starting from the moment of the beginning of flowering of plants, it is necessary to spray once every two weeks (in bad weather, every week), spraying with stimulants of fruit formation - preparations "Gibbersib", "Ovary" or "Bud", which will provide almost complete pollination in any weather conditions.

Is there a difference how and when to pick cucumbers?

Since time immemorial, there has been a basic rule for picking cucumbers: "The more often you pick cucumbers, the more they grow." Do not wait until they grow the size of "bast shoes", collect them very small. Believe me, do an experiment, and you will see that the total yield with this type of collection will be much higher. In addition, if you want to get high-quality greens, collect them only in the morning, while it is not yet hot. Previously, the peasants in Russia collected them at sunrise. And maybe that's why the Nezhinsky cucumbers were famous throughout Europe. I try to follow this rule and pick cucumbers every morning, at about 6-7-8 in the morning, depending on the weather. If the day is supposed to be hot, then you need to pick the cucumbers early, and if not, then you can get some sleep.

← Read part 4. Reasons for failures in pickling cucumbers

Svetlana Shlyakhtina, Yekaterinburg


Varieties and hybrids with an intensive yield are grown in the greenhouse and greenhouse. By the end of summer - beginning of autumn, the land in the beds is severely depleted, the plants begin to experience a lack of fertilizers. Cucumbers are fed every 2 weeks with a complex mineral fertilizer, where the main elements are nitrogen and potassium. Suitable urea (carbamide), potassium nitrate, potassium humate. Fertilizers are dissolved in water, according to the instructions, and watered under the root or sprayed over the foliage.

In the greenhouse, cold nights often cause condensation to rain down on the plants. On the one hand, cucumbers love high humidity, and on the other, it contributes to the development of fungal diseases and rot.

For the prevention of diseases, cucumbers are treated with solutions of Fitosporin, Fitoverma, Imunocytofit. Helps to destroy the spores of the fungus Planriz, Trichodermin, Alirin B.

You can increase the amount of greenery on a plant by rejuvenating it. For this, several young shoots are sprinkled with soil at the base, without separating from the bush. In this place, the stem soon takes root, and the young branch begins to actively bear fruit. The main, already weakly fruiting stem is cut off.

To prolong the fruiting of cucumbers in the fall, varieties of an extended fruiting period are sown in the greenhouse: Hercules, Farmer, Bully, Virenta, At the behest of a pike. Some gardeners plant cucumbers in 2-3 terms, so that massive fruiting waves replace each other.


Tricks for Tomato Health

To keep tomatoes bearing fruit for as long as possible, follow these rules.

1. Form tomatoes of tall grades into 2-3 stems.

2. Shade plants in open ground with a net or thin spunbond (you can throw it on a trellis if you tied bushes to it). Remove the shelter in rain and cloudy weather.

3. During the flowering of tomatoes, spray the plants with a solution of boric acid (10 g per 10 l of water) once every IQ-14 days.

4. Once a week, a few hours after watering, spud the tomato bushes to a height of 3-4 cm.

5. For the prevention of diseases, once every 10 days, treat the plants with Epin and Immuno-cytophyte.

6. From mid-August, once every 10-14 days, spray the bushes with a solution of nitroammofoska (10 g per bucket of water), refuse other dressings.

7. As soon as the nights become cold and foggy, cover the bushes with plastic in the evening. If it's warm during the day, remove the shelter. Pick the fruits unripe and ripen them indoors.

© Author: Irina GURIEVA, scientific. sotr. FNTS them. Michurina


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This early maturing female-flowering parthenocarpic hybrid is recommended for cultivation in plastic greenhouses and outdoors. The period from germination to harvest is 38-42 days. The plant is vigorous, with medium branching. 2-3 ovaries are formed in the knot. The fruits are beautiful, cylindrical, large tuberous, dark green with white thorns. The length of the cucumbers is 10-12 cm, the diameter is 3.5-4 cm, the weight is 110-130 g. The plant is resistant to powdery mildew, olive spot and cucumber mosaic virus. The fruits are used for fresh consumption and canning.

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Why is the number of ovaries decreasing and what to do about it?

When growing both bundle and super bundle cucumbers, one must take into account the fact that the number of ovaries in a node is a variable quantity, despite the fact that this trait is transmitted genetically. It can vary depending on growing conditions and on the location of the node on the plant. This means that with illiterate care, you can get a smaller yield than if you follow all the recommendations.

Factors that reduce the number of ovaries in a knot:

  • excess nitrogen fertilization,
  • insufficient watering and dry soil,
  • strong overheating,
  • lack of sunlight.

So-called beam resorption effect appears in the case of very rapid growth of the main stem.

There may be more ovaries in the lower nodes than in the nodes of the middle tier when overfeeding plants in hot weather. Under optimal conditions, when growth proceeds at a normal pace, the number of ovaries in a node increases from the lower nodes to the upper ones and from the main stem to the lateral shoots.

In case of nutritional deficiency (when after the main top dressing, fertilizers were not applied to the soil for a long time or they were applied in insufficient quantities) the richest bunches can form in the middle part of the stem, when young plants are already powerful enough, but not yet loaded with fruits, and new ovaries are provided with nutrition ...

In shading conditions, the "beam" also decreases. Thus, on the same plant of bunch cucumbers, the number of ovaries in a node can vary from 2-3 to 8-10 or more.

As a rule, in order to prevent the "resorption of bundles" on the stems of cucumbers, it is enough to observe several conditions:

  • maintain soil temperature within 21-24 ° С,
  • prevent overheating of the air, especially at night,
  • do not "overfeed" the cucumbers with nitrogen fertilizers,
  • monitor the uniform illumination of the plants.

It is important to understand that the bushes of bunch cucumbers are not able to "feed" numerous ovaries - some of them dry out even under ideal growing conditions. However, the more diligently you follow agricultural techniques, the more cucumbers you will eventually remove from the bush.


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