Caring for daffodils after flowering: braiding and other nuances

Caring for daffodils must be continued after the delicate flowers have wilted. This period is very important in the life of the plant, as it has a decisive influence on the flowering of the next season.

Pruning the leaves of faded daffodils

Dried peduncles must be removed immediately as soon as the flowers wither, if there is no question of obtaining seed material for reproduction. This is done in order to prevent the formation of seeds, which will take away vital juices from the bulbs. Old peduncles are neatly cut off at the very ground with pruning shears, garden shears, or simply broken out by hand.

Withered daffodil flowers are removed immediately after flowering

The foliage must be left until it naturally wilts and dries out. The processes of photosynthesis continue in the leaves, as a result of which nutrients are supplied to the bulb. If you cut them ahead of time, then this stock will be small, the plant will weaken and may die in winter, or the flowering will be scarce.

Daffodil leaves continue to supply nutrients to the bulb, so they are not pruned until they wilt and turn yellow.

Usually the ground part of a daffodil dries up completely within 6-8 weeks after flowering, then it can be safely removed.

Some gardeners practice braiding daffodil leaves in braids and knots, which are laid on the ground between other crops, while they do not spoil the appearance of the entire flower bed.

Braided daffodil foliage fits between other plants and does not spoil the look of the flower bed

Video: remove faded narcissus peduncles

Top dressing of daffodils after flowering

You can help the bulb ripen and effectively form flower buds with competent feeding. The best option during this period are fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus:

  • wood ash - 0.5 l per 1 m2 (sprinkle evenly, loosen the ground and water);

    The soil under the daffodils is sprinkled with wood ash, loosened and watered

  • organic matter (rotted manure or humus) - 1 bucket per 1 m2;

    For feeding daffodils, only well-rotted manure is used.

  • potassium-phosphorus mineral fertilizers (potassium monophosphate) - 50 g per 1 m2 (it is better to dissolve in water).

    After flowering, daffodils need fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus.

It is important not to overdo it with mineral supplements. It is believed that their excessive amount negatively affects the winter hardiness of the bulbs.

Until the foliage of the daffodils turns yellow, they need to be watered along with the rest of the flowers in the flower bed.

For about 2-3 weeks after flowering, while the leaves of the daffodils are still completely green, I continue to water them along with the rest of the flowers. As soon as the first signs of drying are outlined, I gradually stop watering.

Video: Tips for caring for daffodils

Daffodil bulbs: when to dig up

The time for digging up daffodils is determined by the state of the foliage. When it is completely dead and dry, the bulbs can be removed from the ground.

Daffodils dig up when the tops wilt and turn yellow

Do not wait until the leaves fall off completely. The exact location of the bulbs becomes difficult to determine and can be accidentally damaged when dug up.

It is impossible to be late with the digging, because daffodils can re-root and then react extremely painfully to this procedure. Most often, they are taken out of the ground in late June or early July, and then stored in a cool place for about two months. But you can also plant it immediately after dividing the bushes. If there is no need for transplanting and dividing nests, then daffodils are not dug out, but left in the ground.

Usually daffodils are dug up in late June or early July.

Several years ago, I accidentally bought several varietal daffodil bulbs at a sale. I got them quite inexpensively, because autumn was already in full swing and the time for planting bulbs had passed. They had to be planted in practically frozen soil, since there was nowhere to store until spring. In the spring, everyone bloomed. I did not dig out the bulbs and every year there were more and more flowers. After 4 years, it became clear that the nests had grown and it was time to share with the neighbors.

Dividing and transplanting daffodil bulbs

Narcissus is one of those bulbous crops that do not require an annual transplant.... They grow well in one place for at least 5-6 years, sometimes even more.

Daffodils can grow in one place for 5-6 years

Some new varieties and hybrids are replanted every summer to better preserve varietal traits.

The need for dividing and planting a bush arises when the crushing of flowers is clearly noticeable and the number of peduncles is reduced. In this case, the leaf mass falls apart in different directions, forming untidy thickets.

It is necessary to transplant daffodils when there are few flowers and they are small

Young plants are not recommended to be touched earlier than three years. Otherwise, they may bloom poorly or skip flowering altogether.

The work is carried out using the following technology:

  1. The bulbs taken out of the ground are carefully shaken off the remains of the soil and laid out for drying in a well-ventilated, dry and shaded place for 2-3 days. Pre-cut dry leaves, leave live roots.

    The foliage is cut off from dug up daffodils, the roots are left

  2. Mother bulbs are taken apart and separated. Some children separate on their own, and some have to be broken off. The place of the break must be sprinkled with crushed charcoal or ash to avoid infection.

    The mother's bulb needs to be divided

  3. All sick, weak and suspicious specimens are discarded.

    Specimens damaged by a daffodil fly must be destroyed

  4. Healthy daffodils are planted immediately or stored in a cool dry place until August (1.5–2 months). They are planted in holes with a depth equal to three onion diameters, and at a distance of at least 10–12 cm between themselves.

    The bulb is planted to a depth equal to three of its diameters.

  5. The planting site is filled with ash mixed with dry sand (1/3 cup per bulb) and any mineral complex fertilizer (1 tsp per bulb).

    A mixture of wood ash and sand is poured at the bottom of the planting hole

  6. After planting, the garden bed is well watered.

    After transplanting the daffodil bulb, you need to water it well.

If the transplant is made no later than the beginning of September, then the daffodils can take root well before the cold weather. Later planted plants will need to be covered with a layer of cut grass, straw, peat or dry foliage for the winter.

Late planted daffodil bulbs are best covered for the winter with a layer of dry foliage.

It is allowed to store bulbs in a cool (about 0 ° C) dark room until spring. A cellar or basement is most suitable for this purpose, but a refrigerator can also be used (no more than two months). Before storage, planting material is disinfected in a strong solution of potassium permanganate and etched with insecticidal preparations (Karbofos, Fufanon, etc.).

Video: when is it time to transplant daffodils

Competent care of faded daffodils will help plants quickly recover, gain strength, winter well and again delight their owners with delicate and fragile spring flowers.

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Iris care after flowering - when to prune the leaves

Irises are a bright decoration of many flower beds. They are in demand and popular among gardeners. There are more than 800 species in total. Therefore, the choice can be difficult. The most common varieties are Japanese and bearded. Irises are bush plants. Mostly easy to clean. In growing, the main thing is to prune in time after flowering and transplant. Most often, flowers undergo several types of processing. What should be done after the flowering culture? How to take care in the future? More details below in the article.

Planting kiwi: technology and features

Gardeners recommend starting all kiwi planting procedures in early spring. This time is considered optimal to obtain maximum germination. Kiwi seed is not difficult to find. Buy a fully ripe fruit that is soft and crumbly. Without peeling, cut it in half.

Take seeds from ripe juicy fruit

  • remove about 20 seeds, carefully remove the pulp from them
  • wrap the material in cheesecloth and rinse several times with tap water
  • Spread the seeds on a saucer and leave to dry for a couple of hours under normal room conditions.
Attention! At the stage of harvesting seeds, you need to completely get rid of the pulp. Otherwise, the material will start to rot.

The next step is to germinate the seeds to speed up germination:

  1. Place cotton wool, moderately soaked in hot water, on a saucer. Place the seed on it.
  2. Place the plate on a well-lit windowsill and cover with plastic wrap. The mini-greenhouse should be opened at night. But make sure that there are no drafts at this time. In the morning, wet the cotton wool again with hot water and stretch the film.

Under these conditions, the seeds should form seedlings in 7-10 days. Maintain the regimen until you see delicate white roots. Now the germinated seeds should be transplanted into the soil:

Kiwi sprout

  1. Mix equal parts humus, peat, turf and sand.
  2. Fill small pots with soil. In each, right on the surface, put a few seeds. Sprinkle them on top with a thin layer of soil. You can't ram the ground.
  3. Spray the planting daily, keeping the topsoil moist. Use only a spray bottle, simple watering cannot be carried out.

Advice. Moistening the earthy coma during this and subsequent stages of growing is extremely important for the plants. Therefore, other methods are suitable for these purposes. For example, installing a mini greenhouse with half plastic bottles above each pot. However, an excessive amount of water for the plant's root system will be fatal.

Selection of a place for growing hyacinths in the open field

A competent choice of a place for planting hyacinths in open ground and caring for plants before and after flowering is the key to a long spring flowering.

The area where hyacinths are to grow should be well lit, which in spring, when there is still little foliage, is easy to provide. But you will have to take care of protecting the flower garden from the wind.

Many gardeners make the mistake of planting bulbs under tree tops or near tall shrubs. On the one hand, such large vegetation will really save the inflorescences from the cold wind and will not shade until the foliage blooms. On the other hand, when it comes time to dig up hyacinths after flowering in the garden, the bulbs may not have enough nutrition to replenish their strength, which will affect their quality.

  • Hyacinths prefer loose soil. It is better to mix clayey soil or black soil with peat or river sand.
  • The growth of bulbs and the quality of flowering are positively influenced by the abundance of high-quality organic matter, but feeding with fresh manure can harm hyacinths.
  • The acidity of the soil should not exceed 6.5 units, if the pH level is higher, lime flour is added to the soil.

Hyacinth bulbs react extremely poorly to waterlogging. If the groundwater at the site approaches the surface closer than half a meter, high ridges are arranged for planting hyacinths or powerful drainage is needed. To ensure the outflow of spring or rain moisture, a slight slope is sometimes made.

All preparatory work for planting hyacinths in the open field and caring for bulbs is best done at the end of summer. In a month or two, the soil will settle, and the autumn rooting of the bulbs will be faster and easier.

Bulbous and perennial flower beds: 4 mixborder ideas and implementation plan

Beds with spring bulbs and perennials are extraordinarily beautiful. In the fall, you can plant mixborders, which will bloom from early spring until the first snow. We offer you - 4 options for creating low-maintenance flower beds with your own hands.

The basic principles of planting tulips, crocuses, daffodils in a flower bed together with perennials:

  • the first in the mixborder to bloom are spring bulbs (April-May)
  • the crowns of perennials fully open later (by the end of May - in June)
  • perennial plants, by the beginning of summer, they cover the wilting bulbs with their foliage
  • from June to autumn - perennials retain their decorative effect. We will tell you about the rules for creating such flower beds, the selection of plants and convenient planting methods with specific examples.

Flowerbeds and mixborders from spring bulbs and perennials

Modern varieties of tulips, crocuses, daffodils and other bulbs are much easier to care for than the old ones. They are more reliable, so they can be safely planted together with perennials in low-maintenance garden compositions. And you will see for yourself! In order for the flower bed to please you with flowering and almost does not need care, there are only two basic rules.

Rule 1. Light soils.

It is on such soils that most bulbous and perennials need replanting less often. Owners of dense soils, for a start, will have to make the land in the flower bed easier by adding sand, peat, humus. And if your land is light, moisture-consuming and well-cultivated, then you can immediately start planting.

Rule 2. The correct choice of varieties and types of bulbous.

Choose types of tulips, muscari, daffodils, etc., which can grow in one place without digging for 3-5 years or longer. And by this time, perennials will need to be planted. We recommend such bulbous ones.

Most tulips of this species are short, strong, with graceful flowers. Main features: early flowering, good flower shape, wide range of colors (there are bicolors). Very resistant to growing conditions. Flowering - from April.

These tulips have very large flowers up to 12 cm, with a compact plant size of about 30 cm. Beautiful flower shape, wide at the base, with the edges of the petals bent outward. The leaves are in reddish strokes. Flowers hold well, up to 3 weeks. Very unpretentious tulips.

Tulips with a special flower shape - the inner petals create a tall glass up to 15 cm, and the outer ones are bent outward to the middle of the bud. Tulips are strong, from 15 cm to 40 cm. It blooms from the end of April.

Flowers with a peculiarity, up to 8 cm, open wide and look like stars. These tulips are the first to bloom - in April. Compact resistant tulips, 15 cm - 20 cm. There are varieties with decorative leaves.

Tall tulips, flower - a special shape up to 15 cm, with a weighted square bottom. Peduncles - up to 80 cm. Medium early, bloom from early May.

Large and tall tulips, up to 70 cm. Flowers - up to 14 cm. Peduncles are strong. The buds keep their shape perfectly. Bloom from the first decade of May.

Most types of daffodils can be grown in one place for up to 5 years.

Small-bulbous muscari and crocuses - grow gradually, form nests. And they can do without digging from a flower bed for up to several years.

Which tulips, muscari, daffodils and other bulbs are most suitable for flower beds and mixborders - you already know. We begin to select perennials. You can combine plants that are already in your garden. Or buy bulbous and perennials from us. If you are planting a flower bed in the fall, and you also need perennials from our spring range, just leave room for them. Vex in the spring.

Flowerbed option 1: Mixborder for sunny places

Tulips, hyacinths and daffodils will get along well in a flower bed with drought-resistant perennials: stonecrop, yarrow (Achilles), perennial asters, etc. Such a flower bed can not be transplanted until 5-6 years.

Flowerbed option 2: Alpine slide and rockery

Landscape design elements with decorative or natural stones - go well with tulips, crocuses, muscari, daffodils.For such flower beds, it is better to choose low types of bulbous. Suitable for you: crocuses, botanical tulips, Kaufman tulips, Greig's tulips, miniature daffodils, herbaceous hazel grouses (fritillaria).

Flowerbed option 3: Mixborder in partial shade

Spring bulbs in a flowerbed actively grow and bloom in spring. The crowns of trees, shrubs and perennials do not bother them at all. Until the foliage blooms completely, the spring flowers will already retire.

And perennials will cover them so that the mixborder remains beautiful all the time. For such compositions, not only tulips and daffodils are suitable for you, but also bulbous irises and chionodoxes. Planting in flower beds, take into account the height of the plants and the timing of their flowering.

Supplement the flower bed with bulbous perennials - astilbe, hosts, geyher, geraniums, etc.

In the spring - the main accents of the flower beds will be tulips, hyacinths, crocuses, daffodils, muscari, etc. From the beginning of summer - perennials: the host will delight with beautiful foliage and cover the falling asleep bulbs, by the middle of summer - blooming astilba will take notice, and closer to autumn - the first batch will be performed by perennial asters.

Flower bed option 4: Continuous flowering flower bed with bulbs and perennials

When creating mixed plantings of perennials and bulbs, you can make flower beds with a regular composition, symmetrical, or you can make fantasy ones. To begin with, let's see - is the future flower bed clearly visible from all sides in the garden? Or just three, two, or one? The approach to the composition of the flower bed, the combination of plants, the choice of varieties of tulips, daffodils and perennials will depend on this.

Continuous flowering perennial and bulbous flower bed - 10 easy steps:

  1. The main idea of ​​the flower bed: perennials do not interfere with bulbous plants in spring, and from the beginning of summer they cover them with their crowns. The flower garden remains decorative until winter.
  2. Consider the option when the flowerbed has the correct shape and is clearly visible from all sides. It is in light partial shade.
  3. Create a symmetrical composition with an accent in the center of the flower bed, round. Planting of plants is done - from the center of the flower bed to the edges, in rings.
  4. In the center of the flower bed we plant a tall perennial plant - the Royal Ruby aster. You can immediately 3-5 bushes, depending on the size of the flower bed. Height is the main dominant. And a background for the lower plants.
  5. Around - 2-3 rows of Triumph tulips, they are large and they will be clearly visible from the edge of the flower bed. And another 2-3 rows of muscari, which will "match" the rows of tulips, shade them.
  6. Frame with Milk and Honey astilba. In summer, this perennial will be lower than the aster and you will have a cascade. While these rather large perennials are blooming, tulips and muscari will just finish flowering. And the closed leaves of perennials will reliably cover the falling asleep bulbs.
  7. We plant daffodils before astilba. Any daffodils will do, except dwarf ones.
  8. We plant a number of perennials - geychera or medium-sized hosts. Such a planting around the district looks spectacular: 2 bush hosts Fortunei Hyacinthina and 1 bush hosts Patriot.
  9. We plant hyacinths and small-bulbous plants almost in the foreground - crocuses, hyacintoids, miniature daffodils, etc.
  10. And the very first plan is again a perennial, garden geranium. She wakes up quite late, she will not shade the bulbous, but then she will cover them.

Such beds of perennials and bulbs will require the simplest care from you. And they will delight with flowering from April to autumn.

We have a large collection of spring bulbs: tulips - more than 100 varieties, daffodils - dozens of varieties, hyacinths, crocuses, muscari and other bulbs. You can buy professional quality bulbs from TM Yaskrava Klumba at a good price from a direct supplier with a Guarantee. Delivery of the online store - by mail across Ukraine (Kiev, Dnipro, Kherson, Cherkassy, ​​Kharkov, etc.)

Hyacinth in a pot - decoration of the apartment

Hyacinth is a perennial bulbous plant with girdle-like leaves and strong-smelling bell-shaped flowers gathered in inflorescences like brushes. The colors are extremely varied, from snow-white to inky purple. Hyacinths are double and non-double. And the latter are much larger.

Hyacinth translated from Greek means "Rain Flower". There is a legend about the hero of Greek myths Hyacinth. He was a favorite of Apollo, and this flower is named after him. One of the most common species is oriental hyacinth. It grows in Greece, Lebanon, southern Turkey, Syria, where it blooms in early spring. In southern Russia, blue hyacinth with blue-white flowers is quite common and in large numbers. There is another not-so-famous variety of hyacinth - Belvalia Roman. In the wild, it is found in northern Italy, southern France, Algeria.

Hyacinths during the flowering period are divided into early, middle and late. The time gap is very small, about 10 days. Blue and white hyacinths begin to bloom and end in deep red and yellow. During flowering, they are fed with full-fledged fertilizers, and then with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers with the addition of trace elements.

In the open field, hyacinth blooms in the garden early in Spring - in April, May. After the plant has faded and the leaves turn yellow by a third, you can start digging out the bulbs. Then they are cleaned, dried and sorted. Before planting, the bulbs are treated with a fungicide. To grow hyacinth in a pot, use the largest bulbs. They produce powerful flowers. Although smaller bulbs can be used, they will bloom later. If you are making a large pot that can hold several bulbs, it is better to use a different color. Then the composition will look more interesting. You can also complement it with various small-toothed plants. These are muscari, quinodox, snowdrop, reticulate iris, rare. A potted hyacinth surrounded by these plants will look like a king surrounded by an entourage.

The plant requires a lot of light. During flowering, hyacinth requires a temperature of about 10 degrees Celsius. The lower the temperature, the longer the plant blooms. It is advisable to keep the hyacinth in the apartment away from batteries and drafts. Watering the plant during distillation should be very sparing so that the roots do not rot. When planting bulbs in pots, you can use any slightly acidic flower soil.

The bulbs are planted so that 10% of their area is above the ground. Planting begins in late August, depending on when you want the plants to bloom. If you plant one onion in a pot, then it can be quite small, since the distillation takes place at the expense of the stock of bulbs. In order for the plant to bloom by a certain date, it must be cold treated. During this treatment, the plant is completely rooted, and the central point of growth is strengthened. Cold processing takes place at a temperature of 7-10 degrees Celsius, in the dark. Rooting time lasts 11 weeks, after which you can move on to forcing.

If you do not withstand the cold treatment regime, then the plant will bloom, but much later. After distillation, the bulb should be planted in the garden, and then next year it will bloom. For distillation, this onion can only be used after 3 years, when it is fully restored.

Do not forget that when you bloom, the hyacinth in the pot emits a very strong aroma that may not be liked by allergy sufferers and children, so it is advisable to take the plant out to the balcony or kitchen at night.

Potted hyacinth will be a wonderful gift and decoration for your apartment.

Types and varieties of narcissus, description and photo of groups

Today in the world there are up to 30 thousand varieties of narcissus... All of them, according to the existing classification, are divided into 13 groups, 12 of which are bred by breeders, and one represents natural species. This allows you to systematize plants by shape, size and color of flowers, their number on the peduncle, by height.
Previously, the flowers were white or yellow, modern daffodils amaze with all kinds of combinations of shades of white, cream, yellow, pink. In many varieties, the color tone changes during flowering. The leaves are narrow, long, green with a bluish tinge.

The minimum knowledge of the classification of daffodils is needed in order to choose a variety not only according to external data, but also taking into account how the plant will be used - for bouquets, winter flowering indoors, decorating the garden, where it will be planted when it blooms, whether it will survive in our conditions. If you choose the right varieties, then the flowering of daffodils can be enjoyed from late April to early June.
Some types of daffodils, especially jonquils, contain valuable essential oils. They are specially grown in Algeria, France, Italy, China, Holland, using the highest class perfume as a component.

Group 1. TUBULAR (Trumpet).
The tube (crown) of a flower is the same length with petals or slightly longer, similar to a gramophone tube. The top of a tall and strong peduncle is crowned with a single flower 6-8 cm in diameter. Petals are yellow or linen, tubes are yellow, orange, red, linen. Ideal for bouquets, suitable for winter bloom, garden decoration. They grow well in our conditions.

The most famous varieties: Albert Schweitzer, Ballada, Beersheba, Hans Christian Andersen, Gold Medal, Golden Harvist, Dutch Master, Easter Bonnet, Little Jam, Lunar Sea, Mount Hood, Music Hall, Priamble, Point Barrow, Celebrity.

Group 2. Large-cupped.
The largest group, universal application. The peduncle has one flower with a crown, the height of which is more than a third of the length of the petals. The flowers are large, 8-12 cm. The petals are yellow, orange, white. The color of the crown is white, pink, yellow, orange, red, with a green eye in the center. The edge of the crown can be wavy, corrugated.

Varieties: Ice Fallis, Daydrim, Carlton, Curley, Mount Tekoma, Mercato, Modern Art, Orange Progress, Precaucus, Professor Einstein, Royal Orange, Rococo, Salome, Sound, Selma Lagerlef, Semiramis, Smaragd, Tibordet, Flower Plant.

Group 3. Small-cupped).
On a high, strong peduncle, one large flower with a diameter of 6-8 cm, the crown is low, up to a third of the length of the petals. They grow well, live long. As a rule, they have a delicate aroma, their use is universal. Many new varieties of very different colors have been bred. The crown is often bordered, white, in various shades of pink, yellow, red-orange.

Varieties: Altruist, Amor, Audubon, Barrett Browning, Burma, Verga, Verona, Limerick, Matapan, Flaming Jewel, Chinez White, Epricot Distinction.

Group 4. Terry (Double).
Terry can be either one crown or the whole flower. The petals are traditionally white, yellow, orange. The crown is white, pink, yellow, orange and even red. Flowers of different sizes and colors, single or collected in a brush. Great for bouquets. A significant drawback of terry varieties is that they lose their appearance after heavy rains, droop and often break.

The best varieties of terry daffodils: Irene Copeland, Ice King, Acropolis, Van Zion, Golden Ducket, Double Fashion, Delnasho, Dick Wilden, Dorchester, Yellow Chirfulnes, Inglescombe, Indian Chief, Modern Art, Manley, Mary Copeland, Obdam, Petit Replit, Rip van Winkle, Tahiti, Texas, White Lyon, Flower Drift, Chirfulness, Exotic Beauty.

Group 5. TRIANDRUS (Triandrus).
Flowers are small, hanging, 2-6 on a low stem. The petals are slightly pulled back, the crown is small, in the form of a glass. The color of the flowers is white, yellow, golden. Plants are graceful, miniature, suitable for planting among stones. In the middle lane, they are not widespread due to weak winter hardiness.

There are few varieties: Ice Wings, Liberty Bells, Stoke, Thalia, Tresembl, Havera.

Group 6. Cyclamineus (Cyclamineus).
On a low peduncle, 1-2 drooping flowers, small and graceful. The crown is in the form of a narrow long tube, the petals are strongly bent back. Used for curbs, rocky hills design.

Varieties: Andalusia, Beryl, Baby Dole, Garden Princesses, Jack Snipe, Jenny, Jetfire, Piping Tom, Tete-a-tete, Februerie Gold, Februerie Silver.

Group 7. JONQUILLE (JONKY-LEE, Jonquilla)
They resemble triandrus, but there are more flowers on one stem, 5-7 pieces, they are larger, often fragrant, with small, bowl-like crowns and elongated petals. Many varieties are short, have a delicately fragile appearance, are good for a rocky garden, tall ones are suitable for a mixborder. The leaves are very narrow, like grass.
Most varieties are quite thermophilic, in our conditions they do not live long, but in the south of the country they feel good and are grown without transplanting for up to 7 years.

Varieties: Baby Moon, Belle Zong, Golden Chain, Pipit, Sweetness, Step Forward, Susie, Trevithien, Hesla, Hill-Star, Cherie.

On a strong peduncle up to 35 cm high, dense clusters of 2-8 medium-sized fragrant flowers. The crowns are small, much shorter than the petals. The color of the petals is white, yellow, cream, the crown can be orange. The leaves are wide. They are appreciated for their winter bloom. The temperate climate is poorly tolerated; shelter for the winter is mandatory.

The best varieties: Geranium, Laurent Coster, Medusa, Minnow, Scarlet Jam, Orange Wonder, Silver Chaims, Elvira.

Group 9. POETIC (Poeticus).
One of the oldest garden daffodils in the world. Graceful fragrant white flowers on tall, light stems, the crown is short, yellow with a bright red border along the edge. Resistant to adverse conditions, can grow in partial shade. Suitable for long-term cultivation in one place. Very good for bouquet and winter bloom.

The best varieties: Actea, Queen of Narcissi, Margaret Mitchell, Milan, Red Rome, Sarchedon.

Group 10. Hybrids of narcissus BULBOCODIUM (BRANDUSHKA-NARCISSUS, Bulbocodium).
A new group currently under development in Australia. Single flower 3-5 cm in size on a low peduncle. Differs in original appearance, for which it is nicknamed "daffodil-crinoline": the tube is wide open and resembles a bell or a funnel, the petals are sharp and very small. There are forms of yellow and white color. Suitable for winter bloom on the window. In our conditions, it blooms only in the first year after planting, in severe winters it can freeze out.

Group 11. Split-corona.
Exceptionally beautiful and diverse varieties with a strongly dissected crown (Split crown), which gives them an exotic look. They seem to have a second row of petals, the flowers may resemble a butterfly, orchid. On a high peduncle, one flower, reaching 10-12 cm. The use is universal. Decorative qualities may decrease after harsh winters, but recover after warm winters. It is recommended to plant in well-lit places, be sure to insulate for the winter.

The best varieties: Articol, Baccarat, Broadway Star, Gold Collar, Dolly Mollinger, Canasta, Cassata, King Size, Colorrange, Congress, La Argentina, Lemon Beauty, Modesto, Mole Hobby, Mondragon, Orangerie, Palmares, Papillon Blanche, Parisienne, Pink Vander, Printl, Riesling, Sunny Side Up, Split, Taurus, Trepolo, Tricolet, Chanterel.

Group 12. OTHER NARCISSES (Miscellaneous).
This includes varieties and species that for some reason were not included in any of the groups, hybrids between representatives of different groups and plants of unknown kinship.

Group 13. SPECIES NARCISSES (Species).
Includes wild species, forms and their hybrids.

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