7 ways to plant potatoes: traditional and unusual


When the time comes to plant potatoes, many summer residents think about how to improve their harvest. For this, there are several common and not quite typical options.

Under the shovel

This is a very famous old grandfather's method. Not tricky and simple - it is in demand among many summer residents who do not have the desire and time to look for new, more modern ways of planting.

On the plowed land, we make holes with a shovel, 5-10 cm deep, at a distance of 30 cm from each other, leaving 70 centimeters between the rows. Place seed potatoes in them. Add humus, compost and cover with earth. Straighten with a rake after planting to prevent moisture loss.

It is very important to choose the right planting time. At the top, the soil should be 7-8 degrees and thaw by about 40 cm. And it is not recommended to be late either, otherwise the spring moisture will go away.

The advantage of this method is that it is suitable for any site and does not require any supernatural technique.

Dutch way

This simple method helps to harvest an excellent quality crop (about 2 kg per bush). But it requires more attention and care. It is necessary to properly treat with special pest control agents and carry out prophylaxis before and after planting.

Potatoes are planted in the soil. At a distance of 30 cm, 70-75 wide, rows are made from north to south. Before planting, put a little fertilizer in the form of humus and a little ash in each hole, then the potato tuber and sprinkle it with earth on both sides, forming a ridge. The main thing is to remove weeds and huddle in time. As a result, the ridges rise by about 30 cm, and the bush receives the necessary substances and a sufficient amount of light. The soil under the hill has enough oxygen and transfers it to the roots.

The advantage of this system is that too much water or drought is no longer dangerous for the tubers. Since with a large amount of water, it rolls down between the rows, and in case of drought, there is protection against evaporation.

Into the pits

With this planting option, for each tuber, they make their own hole about 45 cm deep and about 70 cm wide. Fertilizers are placed at the bottom and sprouted potatoes are planted. As soon as the tops grow, more earth is added, perhaps there will even be no longer a hole, but a half-meter slide.

The disadvantage of this option is that it takes a lot of effort to prepare the pits. And a plus - in saving space.

Under the straw

This method is not time consuming. Potato seeds are laid out on the surface of damp ground, at a distance of 40 cm. Lightly sprinkle with earth and covered with a layer of straw 20-25 cm. The straw is used as a weed control and moisture retention. Such potatoes are piled up in an unusual and simple way - adding a little straw. The first harvest can be tasted after 12 weeks.

The downside is that there is a likelihood of rodents.

Under the black film

This planting option is suitable for those who want to harvest faster. The black color attracts light, which allows early emergence and accelerates the growth process.

Land for planting is dug up and fertilized. Then cover with black material and make holes in a checkerboard pattern of 10 by 10 cm for the tubers. When harvest time comes, the tops are cut and the black material is removed.

The downside of this method is that there are difficulties with watering.

In bags, boxes or barrels

This is a mobile method - it allows you to move the structure without damaging the potatoes. And also does not take up much space and allows you to harvest twice as much as usual.

Bags

It is necessary to take bags of dense material that allows air to pass through. Bending the edge, fill it with moist soil by about 20 cm. Then put the sprouted potato tuber and cover it with the same layer of soil. Placing the structure in a sunny place, slightly add it. It is only necessary to water on time, turn the bag as it grows and fill it.

Barrels and crates

In a barrel or box, the bottom is removed, the soil is filled up about 20 cm. The potatoes are laid out and again covered with earth. As the shoots germinate, it is covered with earth. It is placed vertically against the wall, small holes are made for air and for draining large quantities of water.

The downside is that you need a lot of containers to plant a lot of vegetables.

Meatlider method

Smooth ridges or ridges are made from north to south with a width of 50 cm and a distance between rows up to 1 meter. If you replace them with long boxes, then the question of hilling will disappear.

In the dug up and fertilized soil, holes are made 10 cm deep in a checkerboard pattern on a garden bed in two rows. With the help of the groove that has formed in the center, you can water and fertilize.

It is important to know that after this planting method, you should change the place next year.

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There are three common landing options:

1. "Shovel" - the most popular.

Smooth landing under a shovel is a primitive method that 85% of people use. A simpler and more universal way is simply not to be found now. There are several basic rules to follow:

1. The hole should have a depth of 5 to 10 centimeters. Potatoes should not be buried deep in the ground, because they may not grow.

2. 1 potato is placed in the hole. If it's too small, you can use two.

3. The distance between tubers should be 30 centimeters.

4. It is worth retreating 40 centimeters from the rows, so that later it would be easier to carry out uprooting.

This planting method should be used only in warm weather, when the soil is dry. The ideal soil temperature is 6-8 degrees. It warms up to this temperature in April.


Potato planting methods + video

To have a harvest of potatoes, a lot must be foreseen. And the method of planting is not the last thing, it is worth approaching it thoroughly, weighing all the pros and cons, because there are no right or wrong ways - there are those that are suitable for your conditions, and those that for some reason are not suitable.

There are three main options: smooth landing, ridges and trenches. Which one to choose depends primarily on the characteristics of the soil on the site. On loose, poorly retaining moisture, sandy and sandy loam soils, trenches are preferable; on loam, they are more often planted in ridges. But it’s better about everything in order.

1 Smooth fit or "under the shovel"

Everything is simple here: they lifted a layer of earth with a shovel, put potatoes in the formed hole and covered it with soil from above.

However, there is only one drawback - doing all this alone is very inconvenient. Better to work together: one with a shovel, the other with a bucket of planting material. It will go much faster this way.

This method is suitable when the planting site is even, the water does not stagnate on it, and the sun evenly illuminates and warms the soil well. You can use it when developing a new site: if it is difficult to break layers of freshly plowed sod, it is enough to turn them upside down. But if the soil is clayey, does not allow water to pass through well and becomes very compacted after rain, making it difficult for air to reach the roots, then you should not resort to a smooth planting.

In waterlogged areas, with a high level of groundwater, on heavy soils, it is better to prefer a ridge planting. First, in a selected area, using a tractor or a hoe, they make ridges about 15 cm high at a distance of 70 cm from each other, and then tubers are planted in them. In this case, the potatoes are reliably protected from getting wet. However, this method is often used simply because. That there is an opportunity to use a tractor or a motor-cultivator with the appropriate attachments: the technique will plow, and cut the combs, and spud, and dig up the crop when the time comes. On moisture-consuming, structured soils, this is justified. However, if the soil is too loose, light, then the high ridges often crumble during heavy rain, exposing the tubers.

In addition, moisture from the ridges leaves faster - the sun and wind do their job. So, if the climate is dry or if the summer is just hot and dry, with this method of planting the potatoes will need additional watering.

In areas with a hot climate, on loamy and sandy soils - loose and poorly retaining moisture - it is best to plant potatoes in trenches. These are, in essence, "reverse ridges": instead of raising the plantings above the soil level, we deepen them, thus protecting them from drying out and overheating.

You cannot use this method in wet areas, on dense soil: stagnant water and poor air exchange will destroy the tubers. But even if this does not happen, all kinds of diseases, rot, easily occurring in adverse conditions, will almost certainly spoil the harvest.

Perhaps, of all the innovations, it is this option that is most actively discussed. The essence of the method: potatoes are laid out on a flat area (often even without digging, right on the sod) and covered with straw (in the absence of straw, you can use cut grass, weeds and similar raw materials). As the tops grow, straw is added to the rows, "spudding" the potatoes with it, like soil in a traditional planting.

Some proponents of the method use another unconventional technique: instead of spilling potatoes, they uncook them. That is, they do not collect the tops of each bush in a heap, but, on the contrary, spread it and cover it with straw, as they say, to the very top. According to my neighbors, who experimented in this way, the results are pleasing: on each branch additional stolons (underground lateral shoots) are formed, on which nodules of the future harvest grow.

The downside of getting bored is that much more space is required for one plant than with conventional technology. But potatoes, they say, come out more. And when grown under straw, it is much easier to harvest: you do not need to dig anything and the tubers are clean and tidy. In general, in this method of planting, many are attracted by the lack of hard physical work.

Why, then, is it still not universally applied? Because there are also disadvantages. First, the straw does not retain moisture well. And potatoes are quite moisture-loving culture and even with traditional planting they need watering. And if your experiment fell on a dry, hot summer, you may even be left without a crop.

Secondly, mice like to settle in straw. If these rodents are not uncommon in your area, it is better to choose some other method.

Compared to planting under straw, this is a more laborious method (in any case, preparation will require both effort and expense). First, you need to build high ridges - containers (1-1.2 m wide and about 30 cm high, arbitrary length). Then fill them with organic raw materials (in the form of a puff pastry, as for warm ridges) - and you can plant.

It is advised to place the tubers in a checkerboard pattern so that the bushes do not shade each other. Hilling is not used with this growing method. If, after harvesting, the ridges are sown with green manure and organic matter is added as the soil in the boxes settles and compresses, the structures can be used for several years.

The organic filling of the boxes not only provides the plants with the necessary nutrition, but also generates heat. Due to this, you can start planting earlier than usual. Leaving is minimized, so that the initial efforts spent on the arrangement of the ridges are fully justified. The method works well for areas with heavy or waterlogged soil. But in hot climates (or dry summers), high ridge boxes will often have to be watered.

Barrels. Buckets, tanks, even strong plastic bags - almost any container is suitable for planting potatoes, if the prerequisites are met: there are drainage holes so that moisture does not stagnate in the container (otherwise the tubers will rot) the container has sufficient volume: if the plant is cramped. Small tubers will form or there will be very few of them, good lighting will be provided: potatoes are photophilous, so you need to install containers so that the plants are not shaded.

Depending on the size of the selected container, the landing technology may vary. The simplest option: a fertile soil is poured into the container with a layer of about 15-20 cm, potatoes are placed and sprinkled with soil on top. As the tops grow, the soil is added. When it's time to harvest, just shake out the contents of the container and select the tubers.

You can find more complicated recommendations. Some, for example, advise making holes in the sides of a large bag or barrel and planting potatoes in them (this results in a multi-tiered planting). But the practical benefits of such improvements remain in question: in crowded conditions, it is difficult for plants to form a full-fledged crop.

The undoubted advantages of this method are its simplicity and convenience. And landing. Both subsequent care and harvesting do not require significant physical effort, which is essential for many gardeners. In addition, the use of containers allows you to plant potatoes in an area with any soil, even where it is impossible to grow it in the usual way.

The matter is not limited to the listed methods of planting - we have considered only the most common ones. And as you can see, each of them - both traditional and unusual - has its own advantages and "contraindications". Therefore, when choosing, it is worthwhile to objectively assess the existing conditions and your capabilities, then the harvest will certainly please.

These guidelines are for those who love experimentation. There are gardeners who, for one reason or another, are not satisfied with the traditional methods of planting potatoes - they are constantly looking for new options. When starting an experiment, always keep in mind: any new method is designed for well-defined conditions and is often designed to solve specific problems. In other circumstances, they may simply not work. And it’s good if the harvest is simply lower than expected - you may not expect anything at all. Therefore, if in doubt about the choice, do not rush to stop at any one option. Try different ones - so you will definitely not be left without a crop, but at the same time you will be able to compare the results and conclude which method is right for you.

When growing potatoes in barrels, remember: any container culture needs regular watering and additional feeding. Indeed, in a limited amount of soil, moisture and nutrients are consumed faster. In addition, the planting containers can get very hot in the sun. Which is unfavorable for the tubers growing in them.

Regardless of which of the traditional potato planting options you prefer, there are several rules that must be followed.

  • Orient the planting (whether it be ridges, trenches or rows) in the north-south direction: potatoes are demanding on lighting, and this arrangement will allow all plants to get enough sunlight and heat.
  • Choose the planting depth depending on the type of soil and the size of the tubers: on dense, clayey soils, potatoes should not be planted deeper than 5 cm on loam, the optimal depth is 8-10 cm for light sandy and sandy loam soils - up to 12 cm.Large tubers are planted deeper than small ones, but you should not deviate from the average values ​​by more than 2-3 cm.
  • The distance between tubers in a row and between rows depends on the variety: for the early ones, a scheme of 25 (30) by 60 cm is recommended, for the later ones - 30 (35) by 70 cm.If the tubers are small, the distance between them in a row is better to reduce, but to reduce the distance between the rows is not worth it: this makes hilling difficult and will worsen the illumination.


Landing highlights

Do not forget to respect the distances between plantings.The potato bush does not go deep into the ground, but it grows decently. For standard potato bushes, this is about 60-70 cm between rows and about 30 cm between bushes. For smaller varieties, the numbers are, of course, decreasing.

The potato garden should be positioned in the direction from south to north so that the sun illuminates it completely. Even such a simple vegetable also needs sunlight.

When planting, do not forget to add fertilizer to the hole. For example, rotted manure or compost, ash and onion skins. Ash is rich in potassium, which is important for young tubers. And onion skins will protect potatoes from Colorado potato beetle larvae.


TOP 5 unusual potato planting techniques

There are many more unusual methods of planting potatoes than five, which we will discuss below. But you must know where these techniques come from. After all, as a rule, they are not the result of scientific and technological progress. This is nothing more and nothing less than the ingenuity of summer residents. Each method invented was designed to solve a specific problem. For example, to deal with the lack of space in the garden or virgin soil, which was inherited and which you do not want to disturb by processing at all, but you want to grow potatoes at the same time.

We hope the following five innovative ways will help you too. And perhaps they will not only help, but also push to the invention of another unconventional method of planting a vegetable traditional for our country.

Planting under straw

Feature.The method of planting under straw involves the formation of holes and sending planting material into them. But you do not need to fill the holes with soil. Straw is used instead of soil. Gardeners add straw to increase its volume as the potato bushes develop. Many people note that potatoes grown in this way are large and clean. It is easy to dig up and does not need to be cleaned of adhering clods of earth at all.

Relevance. This method is especially relevant for virgin landings. You don't have to cultivate the land - and that's a plus. And another plus is that not a single weed can germinate through the layer of straw. Therefore, in the coming season, your virgin land will turn into a neat and clean vegetable garden. The method is also relevant on heavy soil, since the use of straw allows you not to dig it up at all (it is completely optional to plant potatoes in the ground). In addition, after harvesting, the remaining straw can always be dug up with the soil. This will help to significantly improve the soil structure.

Landing under a dark film

Feature.We take a fairly large piece of dark film or dark non-woven material used in gardening, cover the future potato garden with it and form cross-shaped cuts (the same as when gluing wallpaper at the locations of the outlets). The cuts can be staggered or in a row - whichever is more convenient for you. From under each cut, you need to select the ground with your hands, thereby forming a small hole. Place potatoes in each hole. Everything. It remains only to sprinkle the film with a small amount of soil. You will not have to water or remove weeds from the potato bed in the future.

Relevance. Most often, the method of planting under the film is implemented with early potatoes. Those who have tried this method, assure that it is effective: they say, the harvest ripens faster and in much larger quantities than usual.

Landing in boxes

Feature.To implement this method of planting, you will need to acquire special boxes. The principle is exactly the same as when organizing high beds. The boxes in which you will plant the tubers a little later should be about 0.3 meters high. The width of the box should not exceed 1.2 meters. The length depends on what kind of garden you have and in general on the availability of free space. As soon as the boxes are ready, feel free to fill them with organic substrate and send the tubers there, placing them in a checkerboard pattern. There should be two rows in each box. A distance of 0.3 meters should be maintained between the rows.

Relevance. The method of planting in boxes can be used under any circumstances and in absolutely any region. You do not have to weed out weeds, as well as huddle young bushes. And if you add organic matter to the boxes from season to season, then you can use these unusual beds constantly, and not once.

Planting in barrels, buckets and bags

Feature.Using this method, you can plant potatoes in anything you want - in any empty container. For this, not only a bag is suitable, but also an old empty barrel and even an old suitcase. It is enough to fill the container with the substrate and add soil to it as the bushes grow.

Relevance. The method is rather outlandish, but they say it is quite effective. There are no contraindications to its use.

Landing in the mounds

Feature.From the name it is clear that in this case you will have to form man-made hills in your own garden. This is done as follows. We process the garden bed. We mark it out, highlighting areas with a diameter of two meters. We use the circle to form holes, but at the same time it is necessary to observe the distance between the holes: the minimum distance is 25 cm, and the maximum distance is 40 cm.When the bushes begin to break through from the ground, it will be possible to start hilling them. Gradually, an irrigation crater will form inside the circle, and the circle itself will be represented as an elevation.

Relevance.Planting in mounds is relevant if you want to harvest a significant crop, while having a small place for organizing a potato garden.

Some believe that the old-fashioned methods are more convenient and effective. Others are convinced that the future lies with innovation. I wonder what do you think about this?



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